Odd Vibration above 30mph
- Thread starter bankz5152
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bankz5152
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lol yes. All proffessionally done a few months ago havent been off road since. My tracking was violently out. I mean really bad.
Though if it was that would it not vibrate even when coasting?
My old Feista's wheels where unbalanced and tracking was out. Felt the vibration in that at anything above 20mph.
ITs just annoying, I know landys vibrate n shake and all sorts but this feels like a rectal massage!
Though if it was that would it not vibrate even when coasting?
My old Feista's wheels where unbalanced and tracking was out. Felt the vibration in that at anything above 20mph.
ITs just annoying, I know landys vibrate n shake and all sorts but this feels like a rectal massage!
bankz5152
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I believe I found the source, rear prop UJ. Its split. Still attached but I don't think its got long left -
Is it worth me try to replace the UJ or buy a whole new prop shaft?
Is it worth me try to replace the UJ or buy a whole new prop shaft?
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nrgserv
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I believe I found the source, rear prop UJ. Its split. Still attached but I don't think its got long left -
Is it worth me try to replace the UJ or buy a whole new prop shaft?
can be replaced, but check prop aint damaged where bearing presses in. wont take long to cause damage, if not done so already.
suspect buster's done a "how to" guide on changing uj's.
bankz5152
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Just took it off. Its proper ####ed 
Gave myself a bit of a black eye taking it off, socket slipped.. lol
Can't believe I've driven over 200 miles like this! Last time I greased the UJs there was no issues to be seen!
I assume I can still drive about if I stick it in diff lock? Just no handbrake?
Gave myself a bit of a black eye taking it off, socket slipped.. lolCan't believe I've driven over 200 miles like this! Last time I greased the UJs there was no issues to be seen!
I assume I can still drive about if I stick it in diff lock? Just no handbrake?
jamesmartin
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you will have a hand brake as long as drum screws stay tiight
bankz5152
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Cheers.
bankz5152
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Just did some reading. People have said the prop should be marked each end before taking it off? How important is it to have done this as I well just forgot.
jamesmartin
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not at all unless you split prop at the sliding joint
bankz5152
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Bollocks. I took it out to check the splines....
Prop itself seems fine though no actual damage to it.
Prop itself seems fine though no actual damage to it.
nrgserv
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make sure bearing carriers on prop are in line when you reassemble it.
bankz5152
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This is far more difficult that I though!
Can't get any of the bloody circlips out! One even snapped. There a trick to it? Big hammer?
Can't get any of the bloody circlips out! One even snapped. There a trick to it? Big hammer?
hughesy
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Just did one of mine yesterday. I had the gearbox out about a month ago and they seemed fine then but one has disintegrated since. I give the circlips a good soaking with wd40 or similar then wire brush all the crud off then a pointed punch in the little hole and tap it out. It'll bend, then probably break but will then come out easy. If they're still tight in the groove tap the bearing cup in a little bit to provide a bit of slack.
rupert092
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Please excuse my lack of knowledge, What are the bearing carriers on a propshaft? are they the UJs? Cheers!
nrgserv
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Please excuse my lack of knowledge, What are the bearing carriers on a propshaft? are they the UJs? Cheers!
hmm... (edit- trying to think how to describe it)
the prop consists of-
a drive flange, with one side facing the diff or gear box. on the other side of the flange is a pair of holes to accept a needle roller bearing, secured on the external side by an internal circlip, and within the bearing is a spigot on the yoke. the yoke has 4 spigots, each going into bearings, 2 on the flange, 2 on the prop body. the other end it the same.
on the body of the prop is a sliding joint, to allow the prop to extend and contract, as the suspension extends and compresses.
the bearing carriers I described are the holes on the prop body at both ends where the needle roller bearings are pressed in.
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ooh propshaft phasing.. funsies
i think the rear are meant to be in phase, front out by 30
actually, are there no arrows stamped on them to help with refitting?
rupert092
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Thankyou !!
bankz5152
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All repaired with a GKN UJ. Much easier than I thought, though does require quite a lot of brute force.
Getting it all back together was even easier!
Thanks again to the wonders or the LZ Community
EDIT -
All is back together and turns properly, pushed it backwards and forwards on my drive heard no clonks also drove it a little and no horrid noises or vibrations. Though when I removed the propshaft I did not mark where it came off, I also removed the spline end without marking but pretty certain it went back in the same way it came out. Is there any damage that could be done buy not putting it back exactly where it came off?
Getting it all back together was even easier!
Thanks again to the wonders or the LZ Community
EDIT -
All is back together and turns properly, pushed it backwards and forwards on my drive heard no clonks also drove it a little and no horrid noises or vibrations. Though when I removed the propshaft I did not mark where it came off, I also removed the spline end without marking but pretty certain it went back in the same way it came out. Is there any damage that could be done buy not putting it back exactly where it came off?
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