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I put the 70220 one in Slotted straight in
Odd sound….!!
- Thread starter Scipio Africanus
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tomcat59alan
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That's the one for the LHD isn't it John?
brianp38dse
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The difference between the 70230 and 70220 is the 70220 has 18mm pipe tails and is 2mm longer
the 70230 has 20mm pipe tails
both are listed as lhd and rhd.
the 70230 has 20mm pipe tails
both are listed as lhd and rhd.
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I had to skim something with a knife and then with the foam stuff it slots in perfectly. Maybe I squared the corners where they were rounded sonewhere?
Scipio Africanus
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Mm…thanks for all the advice guys but sadly I will probably be ditching my P38. Had new rad and thermostat fitted (water pump already done) and drove about three miles before it overheated again. There are a total of three local garages so far who have flatly refused to even entertain doing the job. The heads have already been done by a previous owner, so there probably isn’t much left in them to skim again, plus there’s a chance that the repair might not even fix the issue! One garage recommended Steel Seal but to me that seems a cop-out repair, but I don’t know. Gutted really because the underside is near mint, new tyres, only a little lacquer peel on the paint and the interior is superb. Anyway she’s off for scrap! I have seven other old cars NONE of which have given me any trouble other than routine maintenance. I’ve already thrown a few hundred quid at this thing so enough is enough. I’ll never have another they really are as pants as they’re made out to be! Thanks for all the help and advice and stay safe!
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They're a hobby as much as a mode of transport.
Scipio Africanus
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Ive had less expensive hobbies like personally funding every Space Shuttle mission!
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Yes, it isn't as good as a decent prostitute but better than the geegees.
Datatek
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Have you checked the viscous fan? It's a common failure item
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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It overheated so you're scrapping it, shame.
As for the garages that refuse to touch the P38, personally if they can't do headgaskets on a pushrod V8 they should shut up shop.
Airlocks are common on the V8, best try bleeding the cooling system before condemning it
Might even be worth having a gander at the waterpump and thermostat.
As for the garages that refuse to touch the P38, personally if they can't do headgaskets on a pushrod V8 they should shut up shop.
Airlocks are common on the V8, best try bleeding the cooling system before condemning it
Might even be worth having a gander at the waterpump and thermostat.
tomcat59alan
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And as posted the viscous fan.
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I had this on my diesel.. It bled up on numerous occasions with out issue and now it's a royal pain in the aris!
Keith will agree, I park mine so the coolant tank is the highest part along with the rad and using a special funnel from Amazon with a bit of old pipe or tape fill it up so the level is in the funnel.
Thus kind of thing.
If not bled 100% it'll boil over as if there is a leak. Don't forget you can also sniff test the coolant if you have concern over gasses in the coolant.
Keith will agree, I park mine so the coolant tank is the highest part along with the rad and using a special funnel from Amazon with a bit of old pipe or tape fill it up so the level is in the funnel.
Thus kind of thing.
If not bled 100% it'll boil over as if there is a leak. Don't forget you can also sniff test the coolant if you have concern over gasses in the coolant.
The correct link is http://paulp38a.com
Personally given the money & effort that you have put into this already I think I would be willing to take a punt on a fix with Steel Seal if the alternative is scrapping it. First off you need to confirm that there is no airlock & that will cost nothing.
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It's not the viscous fan if it's overheating after driving just 3 miles. The engine will barely be warm so air flow through the radiator will be ample to cool it & there will be no need for the fan to cut in.
Steel Seal worked on my old Astra but, it wasn't overheating just losing coolant and a bit of pressure in the header tank, coolant loss via the exhaust but, I wouldn't use it on a V8.
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You need to fix the leaks. They stop the coolant pressurising properly, hence it boils sooner. Coolant needs to be properly sealed, so should it does not boil until 125degC at 15psi.
Datatek
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I don't know the V8, but with no viscous fan, my diesel is up to temperature in about 3 miles even in winter.
Scotiawhiskers
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Otto is 4.0 v8 with viscous stiff / running all the time. He is up to temp usually in a little over a mile.
