P38A o2 sensors and steering box

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waddy1200

Active Member
Posts
141
Location
near scunny
Hi guys, right 2 questions.... 1 has anyone got any tips on removing the o2 sensors from the cats as my cats are knackered and need to replace them but really don't fancy buying 2 new sensors as well.
Question 2 steering box needs replacing ive read rave and it says about taking the washer bottle out but to get this out the wheel arch liner needs removing and the mud flap needs taking off. Now ive looked at what used to be bolt heads on the mud flap and they are just rusty pieces of metal. Is there any way I can change the steering box without removing the washer bottle, wheel arch liner etc etc. Think I know the answer but someone may know a short cut you never know lol.Cheers in advance.
 
Hi Wammers steering box has too much play in it even after adjustment ive heard it can sorted out with shims but that is way above my limited abilities
 
waddy1200 said:
Hi Wammers steering box has too much play in it even after adjustment ive heard it can sorted out with shims but that is way above my limited abilities
Click to expand...

You can get a situation whereby the centre section of the rack wears and if that play is adjusted out it can cause a bind at either end. I am not quite sure where anyone gets the idea that wear in the rack can be shimmed out though. Unless you have a situation where the input shaft is moving in and out. Never done one but can't see how it would be possible without removing arch liner. Or at least releasing the front and pulling it to one side which maybe a struggle. Lambdas should be fairly simple with the correct tools.
 
Cheers Wammers like I said id heard about it but didn't fully understand what they were on about when they said about using shims to take the slack up so thought fit a new one. looks like ill have to bite the bullet and do the best I can with the rusty bolts on the mud flaps :(:(
 
My steering box has the same. There's a place that lists on eBay which does remanufactured ones for about £200 - which I thought was pretty reasonable.

There isn't really any way of doing it without removing the wheel arch liner - I used a dremel to grind off the heads of the rusty screws on my one, and then go the rest of them out with the liner off. I also bought an assortment box of the metal self tapper clips that they use to hold them in and an assortment of black flange head self tappers, so that as I go through things like that, I replace them with new parts.

I haven't heard of taking slack up in the box with shims - I've only heard of the adjustment screw on the top, as I tweaked mine today, and whilst it feels better than it did - it's still not great compared to a lot of them!
 
Sorry guys been a tad busy yeah looks like ill have to drill them out and replace them.Only reason I asked is sometimes there are short cuts that people know about
 
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