Not in gear

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Spin718

New Member
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8
Yesterday my 2004 RR HSE failed to get in gear. I stopped at a store and came back, started it up and put it in drive only to hear a loud grinding niose. I quickly put it in park and then tried it in reverse and same thing. I was on a very slight incline and while in park it would not hold unless I had hand brake up. I had to tow it home and now don't know what to do. Please help!!

Thanks,
Spin718:confused:
 
Yesterday my 2004 RR HSE failed to get in gear. I stopped at a store and came back, started it up and put it in drive only to hear a loud grinding niose. I quickly put it in park and then tried it in reverse and same thing. I was on a very slight incline and while in park it would not hold unless I had hand brake up. I had to tow it home and now don't know what to do. Please help!!

Thanks,
Spin718:confused:
Electronic Transmission system is reliant on a neutral/park switch which is liable to corrosion. Problem is becoming more common on vehicles which are exposed on a regular basis to wet conditions. The fix is replacement of the switch.:(

and was it towed or traillered?, if towed did you remember to swap over the fuse's per the handbook before towing?..........do you have a warrenty with the vehicle?
 
Electronic Transmission system is reliant on a neutral/park switch which is liable to corrosion. Problem is becoming more common on vehicles which are exposed on a regular basis to wet conditions. The fix is replacement of the switch.:(

and was it towed or traillered?, if towed did you remember to swap over the fuse's per the handbook before towing?..........do you have a warrenty with the vehicle?
Gramor & Dopey , Thanks for your reply. I had it traillered (flatbed). I also don't know anything about a switch. At this point I am looking for answers. In my search I came across this link which may be what has happend.

MkIII L322 Range Rover Remedies

Have either one (or anyone on this site) heard of this? This is my 3rd RR model (1994, 1998 and now 2004)

Any help is much appreciated

Thanks,
Spin718
 
It seems like that is the most lightly cause of it, the proof of the pudding is to take it off and have a look at the UJs on the prop for the Worn out sleeve and the splines if they are destroyed then thats your problem, i see its £250 for a replacement (could be worse) and you have an addy and phone number there too, give them a ring first though and pick there brains, make sure all the symptoms are there for your fix (but you'll see that when you take the prop off) its a very easy job to do and will not take more than 20 mins get new bolts and nylocks though (for safety sake) seems like they fix the problem (without reading the whole article) in 2006 so you have been a little unlucky there by just a few years, just in case you didn't get the addy its here (the website goes 404 i haven't Googled it yet though) Front Diff Fix by Rover 3 Driveline Center
 
Gramor & Dopey , Thanks for your reply. I had it traillered (flatbed). I also don't know anything about a switch. At this point I am looking for answers. Any help is much appreciated

Thanks,
Spin718
Sorry,work was holding me up, if you have a RR on front suspension tow the rear output shaft on transfer case will rotate as the vehicles moves forward, but front will not, to avoid the centre diff overheating the speed sensor inputs from front drive shaft to VCU have to be isolated......hence a fuse exchange is required to isolate these signals.You traillered so no problem.

Worth checking the Park/Neutral switch on the gearbox is not just loose or wire not connecting due to corrosion, not everything is a wallet buster :rolleyes: with RR's.
 
This is a common fault with the L322, the splines on the front diff and prop have rounded off due to the prop not being exactly aligned with the diff (there is no UJ, just a sliding fit)

The fix is a new front diff and propshaft, there is a bulliten on this. None of the "fixes" that land rover suggested worked, just prolonged the inevitable!!

From 2007 model year, All 322's had a different diff and a propshaft with a CV joint.
 
Thanks Clutchdust. I have it in the shop now and will pull the diff and the prop. Wish me luck!

Spin718
 
Thanks Clutchdust. I have it in the shop now and will pull the diff and the prop. Wish me luck!

Spin718

Good luck!!!!! you'll find the prop will be ok(ish) but the splines in the diff will be flat, have a good look in there with a torch once the prop is off.
 
After $2600.00 (US) I had the diff and the prop replaced. I also filed my complaint with the NHTSA.
 
Seems like a lot of ££ whats the brake down of the bill? the part is only £250 ($500) so where did the rest come from??
 
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