Non-starter after belt change

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gR@HaM said:
Yep, with the exception of flywheel pin
Click to expand...

Then the timing is wrong. Get the fly wheel locking pin in first and then check the pump timing position. The pump locking pin should be an easy sliding fit when the crank is at TDC. The camshaft sprocket timing mark must also be aligned with the web on the timing belt housing when the crank is at TDC.
Pre-heaters not working should not stop the engine running. It will only need a little more cranking.
Be patient and don't rush the timing procedure. If the woodruff key is at 12 o' clock position you cannot be 180 deg. out.
When the timing is correct and it won't start, look elsewhere as there must be another problem. Stop solenoid has already been mentioned.
Hope this helps.
 
sierrafery said:
Are u sure u did it this way?,.......maybe u forgot something, take a look

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/6979/tbelt1.png

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1444/tbelt2.png
Click to expand...

This one goes together wih the installation procedure........u better do it by the book,......it must fire up somehow
tbimu.png
 
Thanks, I pretty much followed the procedure word for word, except for the flywheel pin and I also left the glow plugs in.

Looks like I'm stripping the cover off again to check everything still lines up since turning it over on the starter last night.

I can't get my head around why the flywheel timing hole isn't there when crank gear is at 12oclock. Is there any way that the woodruff key could be misaligned?
Of course I may be talking jibberish!!
 
Graham......
I TOLD ya :eek:
The flywheel will be at TDC twice for every firing stroke.
Yu MUST ensure that its the CORRECT TDC! Get yoself a timing kit - it makes the whole job SO much easier.
I am doing the same job as you and it has taken me 10 minutes to line up the flywheel, remove the crankshaft pully, damper, gear, and set the pump timing pin correctly - yes it was out slightly.
£40 to save that hassle is deffo worth it. If yu were closer, i would help ya.
Its the 9 hours or so to remove a siezed bolt thats the bitch on mine :mad:.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Graham......
I TOLD ya :eek:
The flywheel will be at TDC twice for every firing stroke.
Yu MUST ensure that its the CORRECT TDC! Get yoself a timing kit - it makes the whole job SO much easier.
I am doing the same job as you and it has taken me 10 minutes to line up the flywheel, remove the crankshaft pully, damper, gear, and set the pump timing pin correctly - yes it was out slightly.
£40 to save that hassle is deffo worth it. If yu were closer, i would help ya.
Its the 9 hours or so to remove a siezed bolt thats the bitch on mine :mad:.
Click to expand...

I haven't turned the crank more than a 1/2 turn whilst pump and cams were locked and was careful to return it back to original position.
Shall get me a timing pin for bell housing..
 
Just ordered a wading plug for modifying, hopefully this also works for timing the flywheel on the 300auto. ie fits cover plate bolt hole on side of bellhousing as opposed to underneath on manual version..
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Graham......
I TOLD ya :eek:
The flywheel will be at TDC twice for every firing stroke.
Yu MUST ensure that its the CORRECT TDC! Get yoself a timing kit - it makes the whole job SO much easier.
Click to expand...
If the cam sprocket is correctly aligned, it must be on the correct TDC, otherwise the cam would be 180 deg. out. The kit is definitely worth it. Pullers and pins all in one package.
Unfortunately Graham has gone past the point where the kit is useful - until he does the next one.:)
 
terryds said:
If the cam sprocket is correctly aligned, it must be on the correct TDC, otherwise the cam would be 180 deg. out. The kit is definitely worth it. Pullers and pins all in one package.
Unfortunately Graham has gone past the point where the kit is useful - until he does the next one.:)
Click to expand...

Very tru - my point was the CRANK pulley will be at TDC twice - one of those positions will NOT be correct.
 
How far out would the 'wrong tdc' ie second stroke be?
I recall the hole was only ca. 10mm past the timing hole..
 
Cheers, maybe that was an
obvious question! I can't help but think it's a seperate issue - if the timing hole is within vacinity of right position in bellhousing and everything lines up within the belt casing (and woodruff key cannot misalign in crankshaft) timing must be okay?!
Anyways I shall strip it down again tomorrow! :( :(
 
gR@HaM said:
if the timing hole is within vacinity of right position in bellhousing and everything lines up within the belt casing (and woodruff key cannot misalign in crankshaft) timing must be okay?!
Anyways I shall strip it down again tomorrow! :( :(
Click to expand...


I dont think so. You say Vicinity (well vacinity actually) but as I understand it the timing is critical - the slightest bit out and it wont run. The crank has to be spot on and so does the cam timing. did yu see the yutube video on it? I suggest yu lock the crank, remove the belt and lock the cam sprocket then refit the belt. watch the video again.
 
Olright my splelling ain't great I'm in me local!
Will give it another go tomorrow. As previously stated it ain't really worth me getting the whole timing kit now I've stripped it all down. So me next question - is the flywheel pin the same part for manual and auto versions just different locking location?
Ta
 
The belt timing is the same for both engines. For automatics;

Note on automatic gearboxes that there is no bell housing drainhole. Instead there is a blanking plate on the vertical face of the flywheel housing (underneath the vehicle) that must be removed and the Locking Pin is fitted into the larger of the two blanking plate screw holes.
Here is the link to the full guide:
DIFFLOCK - 300tdi Timing Belt Change
 
Cheers mate, have removed the plate okay just would like to know if the pin itself is the same geometry for auto as the manual one
 
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