Noise gone but prop shaft queries abound

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Zorro587

Active Member
Posts
208
Good afternoon all.
I posted a thread previously about a whirring/mechanical noise whilst driving that disappeared when cruising along nicely.
I've finally found the time to start to put the tools to work and I've removed the prop shaft. The noise I was experiencing has gone but now many questions have raised their heads.
1. Is it possible to 'diagnose' a faulty/failed prop shaft at home or is that a thing for specialists? The only thing I've noticed is possibly that the bearings are fubar'd: if I pick up the prop and turn it in my hands the bearing carriers(?) freely rotate under their own weight, one more than the other. I would have expected a bit more resistance if they were ok.
2. If the prop specialists are the answer to the above, does anyone know whether having it repaired is any cheaper than buying a new prop and just swapping them?
3. As I've now effectively got a 2WD, is the car OK to drive like this or is there anything else I should do (in the short term) whilst it's running like this. I can't really afford to be without the car day-to-day, but if I shouldn't run it like this so be it.
Many thanks
 
Hey.

I would strongly recommend reading here about testing the Propshaft with the One Wheel up Test (OWUT) https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-1-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

However for your other questions the bearings are meant to be smooth and free, if they rotate and make crunchy or grinding noises they need replacing you can also test the VCU (OWUT) with a big prybar / crowbar and a bench vice otherwise but if you don't have one the OWUT is good enough.

As for replacing the prop shaft, the Bearings are much cheaper to replace before labour parts are in the UK £40 for both bearings sometimes less and they can be changed with "relative" ease if you are used to doing car work yourself.

Edit: Replacing the VCU / Entire prop shaft can be expensive however I have had good luck on Facebook market place of people selling them and not knowing their value, got a really good one recently fresh bearings and recently re-conned for £45 kinda felt bad for taking at such a low price 😂

The Car is perfectly fine to run in 2WD with no Prop however some MOT places in the UK will put an advisory that the prop is missing unless you have a blanking plate, the car will be more "reliable" without the prop / less can go wrong.

Hope that helps.
 
If you replace the support bearings, don't go cheap or you'll be doing the job again, and quite likely within a couple of months. I think FAG ones are the ones to go for. You'll need to separate the props form the VCU to replace then, and this is the go to tutorial for doing that...



You need absolute maximum aggression to separate them - do not be afraid to give it everything - as you can see by the bent chisel in the video. Make sure you don't lose the little plates that come out.

The bearings are also a PITA to get off, although I'm sure a puller would make the job easier. Just be careful pushing the new ones on.

MOT testing aside, there's no real problems running 2WD for a short time (or 10 years!). Biggest loss obviously is AWD, wheel spin increases and it can show up weaknesses in your engine mounts - but will mask any problems with your diff mounts and obviously most issues with the transmission mechanicals.
 
Is this an FL1 or FL2 ? @Zorro587 you other posts suggest an FL2 ?

Never worked on an FL2 but various posts suggest unlike the FL1, the bearings come fitted to the prop on the FL2 ?
 
FAG are indeed the original bearings used in the GKN hangers (see pic).
To check the the ones you have you can just prize the rubber seal out, these were 'after market' ones that lasted a few months, as you can see they had zero grease in them from new so the replacements a got I packed with grease before fitting them & they've been fine since (the replacements were also aftermarket).
 

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FAG are indeed the original bearings used in the GKN hangers (see pic).
To check the the ones you have you can just prize the rubber seal out, these were 'after market' ones that lasted a few months, as you can see they had zero grease in them from new so the replacements a got I packed with grease before fitting them & they've been fine since (the replacements were also aftermarket).
Just wondering Andy, what grease did you use on the bearings? I'll be putting a recon VCU and new bearings on mine later this month. Having had numerous bearings go over the years I want to try and give them some more longevity! Do the seals pop out - and more importantly - go back in easily?
 
Just wondering Andy, what grease did you use on the bearings? I'll be putting a recon VCU and new bearings on mine later this month. Having had numerous bearings go over the years I want to try and give them some more longevity! Do the seals pop out - and more importantly - go back in easily?
Hi ya, I trust you're keep well, it was this stuff, grease meant for high load (wheel bearings) etc.
Just wondering Andy, what grease did you use on the bearings? I'll be putting a recon VCU and new bearings on mine later this month. Having had numerous bearings go over the years I want to try and give them some more longevity! Do the seals pop out - and more importantly - go back in easily?
 

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Just wondering Andy, what grease did you use on the bearings? I'll be putting a recon VCU and new bearings on mine later this month. Having had numerous bearings go over the years I want to try and give them some more longevity! Do the seals pop out - and more importantly - go back in easily?
Hi, didn't read it all properly🙄, tested + for chinky flu yesterday (1st time) & on me birthday anorl bastids. Yes the seals pop out very easy I just use a small flat bladed screwdriver,watch size. Once you lever the first bit up the run the s/driver round so as not to bend the rubber seal & make sure you get 2RS (rubber seal) bearings & not ZZ (metal shields), once re-greased then the seal just pops back in ( although I take both sides out). Be interesting if there's any grease in the ones you get, as even my replacements were as good as dry, all the best.
 
Looking to improve the VCU bearing life, I have measured and purchased some oil seals to press in after the bearing. Then can pack grease in and the seal can run on the prop where the useless bent washer fits. Remove the washer and keep the grease in and the dust and water out.

Just an idea....
 
Looking to improve the VCU bearing life, I have measured and purchased some oil seals to press in after the bearing. Then can pack grease in and the seal can run on the prop where the useless bent washer fits. Remove the washer and keep the grease in and the dust and water out.

Just an idea....
I'd be interested in taking a look at that Andy.
There's also the option for possibly fitting different bearing options.
 
Hi,

Andy, I'm planning to try your idea, do you have any photos?
Do you keep the metal washer on the side opposite the splines and on the axle end with splines you replace with an oil seal?

Regards
Chris
 
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