Tempus
Member
- Posts
- 15
- Location
- Minehead (SW UK)
Yes. unplugging will cause it to dieHave you tried unplugging MAF sensor and see if there is any change to it running
Yes. unplugging will cause it to dieHave you tried unplugging MAF sensor and see if there is any change to it running
Don't know about on the petrol but on diesel the MAF unplugged resorts to preset settings in ECU and is an indicator of faulty MAF if engine improves.Yes. unplugging will cause it to die
Could be but it's simple to check if the gear indicator is in the dash or notI would say it's not limp mode and I very much doubt it's the torque convertor. It's certainly worth checking the ATF level.
Yes they are both the sameIm unsure if the coil packs are interchangeable? substitution would be a cheap method to diagnose if you can diy.
If you swap the packs and the problem follows then that’s your culprit. Again, im unsure if they are interchangeable but someone here will know.
Also, might be important. But when parked, in gear and foot on the break, you can't rev the engine. So no power. That's why I thought torque converter in the beginning.
I don't know the V8, but torque convertors normally stall at around 2500 to 3000 rpm.That's what a stall test is.
And you should get some response up to a point.
Wondering if TPS is playing up
I cant find the values for a stall test. I am going to ask @sierrafery if he has "stall test" figures for a V8 4.0L disco, cos they should be similar/same.
J
I would agree which was why I asked earlier, but I cant find figures.I don't know the V8, but torque convertors normally stall at around 2500 to 3000 rpm.
That's what I said. I thought my old 4.6 GEMS was fine (& still do) until recently when I got my project P38 on the road. That has 4.0 GEMS but with new CAM, Rings & fully cleaned head, block, inlet, re-lapped valves, etc. Rebuilt one is much much quicker. Both have all sensors working correctly.Could it just be your cams are worn? That will give low power, misfires, will run worse on lpg etc
It's a very forgiving engine, cams can wear almost to nothing and it will still run.That's what I said. I thought my old 4.6 GEMS was fine (& still do) until recently when I got my project P38 on the road. That has 4.0 GEMS but with new CAM, Rings & fully cleaned head, block, inlet, re-lapped valves, etc. Rebuilt one is much much quicker. Both have all sensors working correctly.
I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).Could it just be your cams are worn? That will give low power, misfires, will run worse on lpg etc
Little time to DIY and Range Rovers don't go together.I know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
The camshaft in the rv8 is rubbish, once the hard surface wears, the rest will follow in hundreds of miles or lessI know that things wear down over time, but that much? Cams should be hard enough to last the engines life ( with every day use).
But even if so ( without ever seeing this engines insides before ) , they should still have some lift to open the valves enough.... should they not?
The last time I did ant engine work, was YEARS ago. It was on an old Ford Capri with an essex v6 engine with some hefty upgrades to all running gear. Great fun and enjoyment, but now days with little time , a place to work and needing to actually use the car to get around , I will need to choose what and when to maximise time spent.
I am new to the Rover crowd, so am glad for any info and help.
I suppose it's 1/10th of a penny cheaper just coating three surfacesSuppose the solution would be to make the cams out of zddp so it’s constantly added to the mix
Just very poor quality IMO. Lack of depth to the hardening and/or poor material in the first place.See these photos over just taken. First photo, the cams #3 and #4 look a bit worn but ok and good profile height.
Second photo #1 is well worn, #2 is completely missing, #3 is well worn.
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