No power poor up hills no grunt!!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
R

raters

New Member
Posts
11
Hi guys
I am new to this site and hope there is someone here who can help.
My facelift disco 2 2003 landmark is causing me problems:(. I have little or no power, it is so poor up hills 20mph in 2nd or 3rd gear, its embarasing when you're frightened a cyclist may overtake!! I have replaced the mass air flow sensor, and checked all the turbo hoses, they all look ok and no separation. The turbo is working with the hose off the inlet manifold plenty of air. I have cleaned the sensor in the inlet manifold and used a "Rovercom" unit to test the electronics at idle and everything looks good.
But still no power. Please help
 
1. manual or auto?
2. with or without EGR?
3. is it sluggish on flat ground too or just up hills? ... i mean when u floor the throttle in 4'th at around 50 mph does it accelerate well?

first thing to do is to put a new good quality fuel filter and a new air filter
 
Hi It's Manual with EGR Fitted.
It is sluggish up hill down dale and on the flat.
If you are going at speed after a considerable time on the motorway, and you have to slow down or brake it is slow to get back to where you were in the first place. I have replaced the fuel filter under the o/s wheelarch and i have fitted a k&n air filter.
Any help!!
 
raters said:
Hi It's Manual with EGR Fitted.
It is sluggish up hill down dale and on the flat.
If you are going at speed after a considerable time on the motorway, and you have to slow down or brake it is slow to get back to where you were in the first place. I have replaced the fuel filter under the o/s wheelarch and i have fitted a k&n air filter.
Any help!!
Click to expand...

get rid of the EGR and clean up the intake manifold
 
raters said:
Hi It's Manual with EGR Fitted.
It is sluggish up hill down dale and on the flat.
If you are going at speed after a considerable time on the motorway, and you have to slow down or brake it is slow to get back to where you were in the first place. I have replaced the fuel filter under the o/s wheelarch and i have fitted a k&n air filter.
Any help!!
Click to expand...


It could be that you are not getting enough fuel coming through, do the following test and report back:


With the drivers door closed but the window open and you standing by the drivers door, turn the ignition key to pos. II where all the dashboard lights come on - DO NOT START THE ENGINE.

Now go and stand by the drivers side rear wheel and listen carefully, you should hear the fuel pump working with some gurgling noises as well, but after about 30 secs it should stop. Listen carefully and note what happens.

What happens with your car?

Dave
 
Thanks for your replies.
I have done the test and I could hear the pump and a noise not disimilar to the air suspension after about 30 secs, it stopped.
What next?
 
raters said:
Done the test, pump heard for 30 seconds and then stopped what does this mean?
Click to expand...

It means that your fuel pump is working correctly. I would replace the fuel filter though, just in case it is congested.

After that, you need to get the car connected to diagnostic equipment to ascertain what fault codes are logged - hopefully this should help with the diagnosis.

Go on the D2 Boys webby and find someone local to you with a Hawkeye or Nanoncom
 
Had a nanocom hooked up today, nofaults found but, car is still so slow, compared to a 2000 disco mine is painfully slow:(.
Can anyone offer any advice?:confused: apart from running it down a long hill, it does go quite well downhills:D
 
OK Here we go!!
Had the Landy checked on a nanocom and the manifold pressure reads at never any more than 120 I am told this reading should be 200+.
Can anyone tell me what would cause this.
Am I right thinking this is down to boost and can be altered by adjusting the wastgate opening with the actator bar (nut and adjuster).
The sender in the manifold is clean and has been for some time.
Any help would be appreciated
 
raters said:
OK Here we go!!
Had the Landy checked on a nanocom and the manifold pressure reads at never any more than 120 I am told this reading should be 200+.
Can anyone tell me what would cause this.
Am I right thinking this is down to boost and can be altered by adjusting the wastgate opening with the actator bar (nut and adjuster).
The sender in the manifold is clean and has been for some time.
Any help would be appreciated
Click to expand...

you could be losing boost pressure somewhere between turbo and inlet manifold, look at all intercooler pipes especially where they connected, you could fit a boost gauge to see what pressure the turbo is producing,
 
raters said:
OK Here we go!!
Had the Landy checked on a nanocom and the manifold pressure reads at never any more than 120 I am told this reading should be 200+.
Can anyone tell me what would cause this.
Am I right thinking this is down to boost and can be altered by adjusting the wastgate opening with the actator bar (nut and adjuster).
The sender in the manifold is clean and has been for some time.
Any help would be appreciated
Click to expand...


Do not touch this! There are loads of things to check before even considering fiddling with the turbo.


1. Connect the Nanocom and check the functioning of the "Wastegate Modulator


2. Take off each turbo hose in turn and check inside for delamination
 
Last edited:
Hi as I have saicd all the turbo hoses have been checked and double checked all fine no delamination, also checked all the hoses round the wastegate modulator all o.k..
I thought if the wastegate modulator is defective you get the old kangaroo effect!1 Mine is smooth at all revs Just no power
 
Could be just a blockage in the intercooler, how mucky were the inside of your intercooler pipes when you pulled them off to check?
If you're not getting manifold pressure it's either a leak or a blockage - do you have any black smoke from the exhaust or a high pitched whistle/whoosh noise which would indicate a leak somewhere.
It's very much a hit and miss exercise to find the problem, sometimes it can be a very long process of elimination.
 
Have you cleaned and checked the MAP sensor ? its easily to get out I think one screw in the inlet manifold Mine was causing a low pressure reading and the ecu was adusting everything else to suit.
Also you said you replace the MAF sensor did you use a genuine one? some of the pattern ones are crap

HTH
Dave
 
I have cleaned the MAP sensor and it is reading ok.
I will get the intercooler pressure tested and cleaned to eliminate.
The nanocom and the rovercom are both coming up with readings from all the sesors and all seam to be ok. No point changing sensors if they are not broken an expensive pointless hobby!!
If you read the posts above I have checked all the usual suspects and they have either been replaced or cleaned. I have had new injector seals and washers, cleaned the MAP sensor, checked and tightened every hose related to turbo and inlet manifold, MAF changed and checked 3 times now, injector harness changed, red plug checked and cleaned, app sensor in air box cleaned and checked,K&N air filter fitted, turbo checked for wear and end float...ok.
If i fitted a turbo boost meter, where would it be have to be plumbed ...where does the "T" piece fit?
I guess iam getting a bit bent out of shape with it now:mad:, this snails pace is just rubbish!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Disco 2 Td5 no power, changed loads and at a loss.
2 3 4
Replies
74
Views
6K
EeEk
EeEk
A
Discovery 4 2010 loss of power
Replies
3
Views
777
gstuart
gstuart
T
Frelander 1 bad starting and no power
Replies
2
Views
737
Freddie17
Freddie17
bahteles
Disco 2 Td5 No power after 2.5k - 3k RPM
2
Replies
27
Views
3K
bahteles
bahteles
R
Heater low temperature, lack of power, connected?
Replies
6
Views
256
Russell Marlow
R
Back
Top