No Nipple - not even a space for one - 1980 Series 3 SWB

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Jimsky Korsokov

Jimsky Korsokov

Active Member
Posts
142
Location
Cotswolds
Hello, I'm totally new to Series having changed from a TD5 Defender so please forgive a possibly stupid question. I get a clunk from the front when accelerating and taking my foot off the pedal in all gears. Looking at the front prop shaft I notice a few things - the gaiter is long gone - I can get grease into the rear UJ of the front PS - the slider nipple will not take any - and strangely there is no nipple on the front UJ - not even a space for one. So my question is whether the front UJ of the front prop shaft should have a nipple (or is it greaseless?), and could the clunk be attributable to problems with the front ps. (By hand it rotates only a few degrees, but will bend at the spline when pushed on). All help very welcome. Cheers.
 
John S said:
If you can get hold of FWH you’re issues would go away.
Click to expand...
Only temporarily, with free wheeling hubs as the shaft does not turn you get accelerated spline wear as it is always loaded on the same point when sliding. Alleviated slightly by remembering to regularly engage the hubs, but will still only mask the symptoms. A new prop is not too expensive, just make sure you get one which has grease-able uj's rather than sealed for life. Sealed for life seems to translate to very short life!
 
New front prop ordered - I'll report back later. FWH's seem to be a contentious subject - I'll revisit later - I have a plethora of more pressing strange noises to deal with first.
 
I have a Series IIA, and also get the same clunk when taking foot off the gas. Do I need to worry about it?
I'm new to this too, so it will be a long process for me to learn the details of what you all are discussing above. I shall return to this thread with more questions eventually.
Thanks!
Mike
 
This is a series gearbox, not 90/110, you shouldn't be using 4wd normally, and so the propshaft should only be freewheeling - no clunks whether worn or not.

If you are in 2wd and getting clunks at the front from accel/decel with throttle I can only think very badly worn dampers or steering.
 
I took off the prop shaft and had a drive around. Clunk only happening on lifting foot quickly off accelerator, although it's all a bit difficult to tell, remove one noise and another seems to become prevalent. Fitted the new prop and there is an improvement although I can still get a good clonk from what I guess is the slack between the diff and the wheels. Not happy to find that the nipple on the diff end of the new prop is inaccessible to my grease gun - can't imagine any tip skinny enough to get in there - does that mean I have to disconnect it every time it needs grease? - or is the prop malformed?
 
Jimsky Korsokov said:
I took off the prop shaft and had a drive around. Clunk only happening on lifting foot quickly off accelerator, although it's all a bit difficult to tell, remove one noise and another seems to become prevalent. Fitted the new prop and there is an improvement although I can still get a good clonk from what I guess is the slack between the diff and the wheels. Not happy to find that the nipple on the diff end of the new prop is inaccessible to my grease gun - can't imagine any tip skinny enough to get in there - does that mean I have to disconnect it every time it needs grease? - or is the prop malformed?
Click to expand...

You need to roll the vehicle back and forward until the prop shaft UJ is at maximum opening where the nipple is.

Are you sure that the clunk is not to do with springs or bushes? There can be many causes of a clunk on a landrover, it isn't always the drive train.
 
Jim, Did you not read my comment? You know that a Series LR isn't permanent 4wd don't you? So the propshaft isn't doing anything except 'following' the front wheels turning.

When you jack a front wheel up and turn it the prop will spin, confirming that you're in 2wd (and letting you get to the nipple as TM says above).
 
I once had a mate who confessed to having three nipples. He did prove it. Naturally after the second pint on any outing he was then referred to as "Triple Nipple". Surprising the number of people who would then ask Why is he called Triple Nipple!?
That is all. Good luck with your prop shaft. :)
 
boguing said:
Jim, Did you not read my comment? You know that a Series LR isn't permanent 4wd don't you? So the propshaft isn't doing anything except 'following' the front wheels turning.

When you jack a front wheel up and turn it the prop will spin, confirming that you're in 2wd (and letting you get to the nipple as TM says above).
Click to expand...

I'll give it a go - confirmed today that it now only clonks when coming off the gas so it has improved something. There was a lot of play in the spline of the removed propshaft. Still learning - very familiar with Defender TD5 - this Series is like a very uncouth version although it does have great looks - I think this is something that will take me a bit of time to learn to love! My favourite new toy is my air riveter - best 24 quid I ever spent - must be 100 rivets in the new battery box - effortless.
 
PS - it had an MOT today so hopfully the clonk is not from bushes etc. - the guy said it was a first for him …. failed it on the screen washers only ….. not that they didn't work … there simply weren't any - no bottle, pump, motor, pipework or nozzles. Wonder how it got its last MOT?
 
Well, if it did make a difference then you're in 4wd - and you shouldn't be unless you're in mud etc... Lifting a front wheel and spinning it will tell you if you are or not, but in the meantime, and at a standstill in neutral, move the red lever right backwards and forwards a few times. Do you see the yellow knob coming up? If not, try pushing it right down and then doing the red lever thing again. The yellow knob's lever mechanism was completely fouled up with crud when I bought mine and it only finally popped up (releasing the transfer box from 4wd) when I sat pulling it up and moving the red from high to low and back a few times. Which meant that I'd driven it 50 odd miles in 4wd, not good, but luckily most of that was on the M25 and main roads, so not much harm done as it would have been with tight turns on a dry road.
 
Jimsky Korsokov said:
PS - it had an MOT today so hopfully the clonk is not from bushes etc. - the guy said it was a first for him …. failed it on the screen washers only ….. not that they didn't work … there simply weren't any - no bottle, pump, motor, pipework or nozzles. Wonder how it got its last MOT?
Click to expand...

That was a fail on mine too, after a complete rebuild - heard it running, no jets of water, ah, empty. Filled it up and assumed all would be OK. It would have been if I'd connected it the right way round. Apparently sucking the screen dry isn't recognised as A Good Thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Freelander 1 newbie with a couple of questions.
Replies
18
Views
2K
DJSteve
D
northern scot
landrover series 3 diffs
Replies
3
Views
1K
northern scot
northern scot
P
Series 3 Chassis Swap - specialist recommendations?
Replies
19
Views
4K
Pete236
P
Rubins4
SWB Series 3, Petrol SOLD
Replies
1
Views
2K
Rubins4
Rubins4
thspeller
Series 3 Gearbox Practice - Is this a good idea?
Replies
13
Views
1K
nickjaxe
N
Back
Top