Skyisthelimit
Member
- Posts
- 23
Hi everyone. Please help. I have been having trouble since May and it's August now. I live on a mountain and survival without my car is tough. By now the situation is chocking me. Both in terms of earning, getting supplies and constantly paying out money.
This car is fantastic and unproblematic. Usually when something goes, it's plastic or rubber.
However, I had a clutch problem and the slave and master needed replacement. Again it was rubber. Pistons inside slave and master.
I ordered the parts and bled the air to take the car to the mechanic to replace slave and master, but when I tried to start it, it didn't want to start. It was swinging fine, but just didn't take. At this point my car was standing without being driven for about 2 weeks, because of the clutch only. THERE WERE NO OTHER PROBLEMS. So I thought the battery must be a bit flat. As it's mountain, I'm parked facing downhill and tried to run start, which always takes with easy with this car ( sometimes I don't drive a lot)
It didn't take, so I phoned a neighbour to ask them to jump me as I had an appointment with the mechanic. That also didn't work. I contacted the mechanic and said there's something wrong, so he had to come out here. They changed the slave and master and then started to look for the new problem. In the end realising that the fuel pump does not go on. Then he tested the fuel pump by stripping the wire at the end and powering it with another temporary testing wire that he ran from the front of the car. The fuel pump then went on. He told me it was an electrical problem and gave me a number for an auto electrician. He also suspected it might be the immobiliser. The auto electrician came out late one afternoon and worked really very rough ripping off things and just cutting all the wires that's connected to the immobiliser. I could hear central locking going more than once. The immobiliser was disconnected in the past. I went through the wiring before he came to look for loose or broken stuff to see if I can find fault on the surface somewhere, and there were some selected cut wires on immobiliser.
I have some knowledge of electricity as Im off grid and do my all own electricity. Not familiar with mechanical and auto electrical though, but can think some logic.
So this guy flew through the car and as it was already late afternoon when he arrived and he wanted to leave after a short while. I was not to sure what he did, because of the speed that he worked and my limited knowledge, but in the end it came down to there being fire by the inside of the distributor, but no impulse going out. Please excuse my terms as this point. I forgot some of the words. They opened the distributor and sanded the piece with copper part in it, but it didn't make a difference. So the auto electrician said maybe the distributor is cracked or its spark plugs and he wanted to leave. I contacted another mechanic that came out yesterday. Explained a bit of so far. He started with the petrol pump that at this point was wired incorrectly by the auto electrician. He powered the pump with a temporary wire from some wires at the back behind the back speakers to start testing. He tested impulse with a sort of little bulb, but there was nothing. He changed one little fuse in the fuse box by drivers feet. The one with oil markings off the top of my head A7. NOTE: I feel this is important as when I went through the wiring I changed that exact fuse. Something must be problematic in the wiring as there is this and also the fuel pump not getting power, but that's my limited assesment. The new mechanic and myself realised that after the auto electrician there was a couple of wires cut and just pushed in behind things. There's a few wires hanging around now and 2 of my windows don't work, that worked before. New mechanic then went and had discussions with another auto electrician that said it's the ECU. They can take it out and have it tested, but even testing is costly. I followed the wiring from the distributor and it goes into the car at the passenger side behind aircon then running along inside the front panels, splitting by the driver side feet and one part goes to ecu and other goes outside to the engine side again. That's some distance of wiring that can have faults before ECU. So my questions are: can it be determined to be the ECU if the fuel pump wiring does not function as normal, when there is loose wires hanging around now. When that fuse keeps blowing? I feel like there's a big chance that it has to do with wiring. I must say that we have had extra ordinay amounts or rain this year. Many dam walls broke in the area and flooding. I have noticed moisture in the car in places, as I went through the wiring.
The other thing that keeps puzzling me is that THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG with the car besides the slave and master needing changing. How can a car brake this bad when it was not even turned on, unless it's sabotaged? The battery is fine. No problem there. Please help with advise. I can have a look at the wiring, but I don't know how to remove the front panels. Dash etc. some of the wiring is impossible to reach as is. I would also love some guidance as to the wiring by the drivers as that's where the auto electrician left the loose wires.
This car is fantastic and unproblematic. Usually when something goes, it's plastic or rubber.
However, I had a clutch problem and the slave and master needed replacement. Again it was rubber. Pistons inside slave and master.
I ordered the parts and bled the air to take the car to the mechanic to replace slave and master, but when I tried to start it, it didn't want to start. It was swinging fine, but just didn't take. At this point my car was standing without being driven for about 2 weeks, because of the clutch only. THERE WERE NO OTHER PROBLEMS. So I thought the battery must be a bit flat. As it's mountain, I'm parked facing downhill and tried to run start, which always takes with easy with this car ( sometimes I don't drive a lot)
It didn't take, so I phoned a neighbour to ask them to jump me as I had an appointment with the mechanic. That also didn't work. I contacted the mechanic and said there's something wrong, so he had to come out here. They changed the slave and master and then started to look for the new problem. In the end realising that the fuel pump does not go on. Then he tested the fuel pump by stripping the wire at the end and powering it with another temporary testing wire that he ran from the front of the car. The fuel pump then went on. He told me it was an electrical problem and gave me a number for an auto electrician. He also suspected it might be the immobiliser. The auto electrician came out late one afternoon and worked really very rough ripping off things and just cutting all the wires that's connected to the immobiliser. I could hear central locking going more than once. The immobiliser was disconnected in the past. I went through the wiring before he came to look for loose or broken stuff to see if I can find fault on the surface somewhere, and there were some selected cut wires on immobiliser.
I have some knowledge of electricity as Im off grid and do my all own electricity. Not familiar with mechanical and auto electrical though, but can think some logic.
So this guy flew through the car and as it was already late afternoon when he arrived and he wanted to leave after a short while. I was not to sure what he did, because of the speed that he worked and my limited knowledge, but in the end it came down to there being fire by the inside of the distributor, but no impulse going out. Please excuse my terms as this point. I forgot some of the words. They opened the distributor and sanded the piece with copper part in it, but it didn't make a difference. So the auto electrician said maybe the distributor is cracked or its spark plugs and he wanted to leave. I contacted another mechanic that came out yesterday. Explained a bit of so far. He started with the petrol pump that at this point was wired incorrectly by the auto electrician. He powered the pump with a temporary wire from some wires at the back behind the back speakers to start testing. He tested impulse with a sort of little bulb, but there was nothing. He changed one little fuse in the fuse box by drivers feet. The one with oil markings off the top of my head A7. NOTE: I feel this is important as when I went through the wiring I changed that exact fuse. Something must be problematic in the wiring as there is this and also the fuel pump not getting power, but that's my limited assesment. The new mechanic and myself realised that after the auto electrician there was a couple of wires cut and just pushed in behind things. There's a few wires hanging around now and 2 of my windows don't work, that worked before. New mechanic then went and had discussions with another auto electrician that said it's the ECU. They can take it out and have it tested, but even testing is costly. I followed the wiring from the distributor and it goes into the car at the passenger side behind aircon then running along inside the front panels, splitting by the driver side feet and one part goes to ecu and other goes outside to the engine side again. That's some distance of wiring that can have faults before ECU. So my questions are: can it be determined to be the ECU if the fuel pump wiring does not function as normal, when there is loose wires hanging around now. When that fuse keeps blowing? I feel like there's a big chance that it has to do with wiring. I must say that we have had extra ordinay amounts or rain this year. Many dam walls broke in the area and flooding. I have noticed moisture in the car in places, as I went through the wiring.
The other thing that keeps puzzling me is that THERE WAS NOTHING WRONG with the car besides the slave and master needing changing. How can a car brake this bad when it was not even turned on, unless it's sabotaged? The battery is fine. No problem there. Please help with advise. I can have a look at the wiring, but I don't know how to remove the front panels. Dash etc. some of the wiring is impossible to reach as is. I would also love some guidance as to the wiring by the drivers as that's where the auto electrician left the loose wires.
