Disco 2 No dipped/full beam headlights

JebLZ · Nov 21, 2016

Parked up at a shop earlier during some nasty rain, then when I get back and turn engine/lights on the side lights came on as usual (1-turn) but no dipped headlights came on on the second turn. Instead, I get the blue 'full beam' dash light on solidly(pulling back the stall to toggle full beam does nothing)

Drove home with sidelights and fog lights (which still worked).

Any ideas? Big rain storm right now so can't do my usual testing. Found two people on forums with identical symptoms but inconclusive resolutions ( https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/headlights-not-working.212744/#post-2363132 )

What's the blue light on constantly mean?
What are the single points of failure in the headlight system?
Earth?
Relay?
Stalk?

Thanks!

listerdiesel · Nov 21, 2016

You'll probably find the column switch is goosed.

Peter

JebLZ · Nov 21, 2016

I had a word with myself, manned up and went out in the rain. Found two nicely barbecued headlight connectors on each headlight assembly!

The Mad Hat Man · Nov 21, 2016

replace them with ceramic connectors, not the usual tatty plastic ones.

JebLZ · Nov 21, 2016

Jiggling them about a bit resulted in them lighting up again, however smoke was coming off them (probably burning off the WD40 I'd just sprayed them with)

The connections seem fairly corroded, hence high resistance, so that's why they're running hot

Disco1BFG · Nov 21, 2016

The Mad Hat Man said:
replace them with ceramic connectors, not the usual tatty plastic ones.

+1 - about £2.50 each off evil bay

- or less if you wait for the chinese post

JebLZ · Nov 21, 2016

Sounds good but might have to get them somewhere local, I commute in the dark so need them asap :-(

Disco1BFG · Nov 21, 2016

JebLZ said:
Sounds good but might have to get them somewhere local, I commute in the dark so need them asap :-(

Check out flea bay item # 321322933565 - they'll send them RM special next day delivery - so order tomoz, and have them wednesday !!

discool · Nov 21, 2016

JebLZ said:
I had a word with myself, manned up and went out in the rain. Found two nicely barbecued headlight connectors on each headlight assembly!

No supprised looking at the state of the three bulb terminals and the dust on the connector, looks like they haven't been touched for years.
Preventive maintenance comes to mind, which saves such and other issues.

JebLZ · Nov 21, 2016

Definitely! Pay to learn...

Anyway...think it'll be a Halfords job in the morning, flooding permitting. How should I join the old wires to the new ones? I have a selection of crimp terminals and heat shrink. I'm thinking just a simple straight butt connector, probably yellow but will check the current first.
EDIT: blue seems to be the common choice

discool · Nov 21, 2016

Solder the joints and then use your heat shrink tubing and u shouldn't have any further issues.

brian47 · Nov 21, 2016

JebLZ said:
Definitely! Pay to learn...

Anyway...think it'll be a Halfords job in the morning, flooding permitting. How should I join the old wires to the new ones? I have a selection of crimp terminals and heat shrink. I'm thinking just a simple straight butt connector, probably yellow but will check the current first.
EDIT: blue seems to be the common choice

The problem which occurs when trying to decide which colour crimp to use comes from the fact that the three colours, red, blue and yellow are sized to fit some standard domestic electrical cables, nothing to do with the current carrying capabilities. The red crimps fit up to 1.5 mm, the blue up to 2.5 mm and the yellow are for 6.0 mm.
Provided you can get all of the wire which you want to connect into the end of the crimp without strands either poking out or having to be cut away then that's the size to use on vehicle wiring.
You will get a better, tighter and more secure joint by using the smallest crimp which meets the above criteria, larger crimps might not be tight enough and could lead to heating, even fire due to poor contact.
A more successful method would be to solder and cover with heat-shrink sleeving.
Many will tell you to tin both wires and lay them side by side and apply some heat from the soldering iron and sweating the two wires together. While this method will work, in a more hostile environment like a motor vehicle where vibration can have an effect, I prefer the "belt and braces" method of a mechanical connection first and then solder, especially if you're not that experienced with soldering.
If you Google "American Twist Joint" or "Western Union Splice" you should get some idea of what I mean. They are both variations of the "Britannia Joint".

iansoady · Nov 22, 2016

Your first suggestion took me to a page telling me how to roll joints......

brian47 · Nov 22, 2016

iansoady said:
Your first suggestion took me to a page telling me how to roll joints......

Just one of the perils of t'interwebspherespace. If you looked at the google images you would have seen some pictures of the wire connection. Joints are also shown, or that's what I think they might be.

listerdiesel · Nov 22, 2016

Here's one I prepared earlier

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/disco-2-headlight-connector-renewal.261277/#post-3133717

Peter

JebLZ · Nov 22, 2016

All done! Lights brighter than they've been in a long time.

They've been getting dimmer so gradually that I didn't even notice!

Disco 2 No dipped/full beam headlights

JebLZ

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listerdiesel

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JebLZ

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The Mad Hat Man

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JebLZ

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Disco1BFG

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JebLZ

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discool

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brian47

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iansoady

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