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DALE CARROLL

DALE CARROLL

Active Member
Posts
111
Location
surrey
hey have any of you guys left you landy for three months and started driven it and after 10 mins it starts to shudder? the only way to describe it is like you have played the fuel game and your nearly out of petrol and it pulls back a few times that's how it feels I don't know where to start on this. fixed the water leaks and issues yesterday but cant work out this one :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad: could it be a simple filter or airflow issue?
 
2003 1.8L I have just ordered all new bosch filters for it hoping it does something but I don't know if it is something simple

the decent light is on only warning light there
 
It could be the drive train in a bad way. Are the tyres all the same make, type and size and are the least worn on the rear?

I would also be doing the one wheel up test too.

It's definitely worth eliminating the 4X4 system before going further.
 
abd light does come on sometiumes but it feels like it isn't getting fuel or air like it is about to run out of petrol
its a weird feeling
 
what is best to clear that out? it was sitting for months so high chance there could be a build up I have all new filters to put on tomorrow should I buy some top streagth injector cleaner?
 
Nodge68 said:
It could be the drive train in a bad way. Are the tyres all the same make, type and size and are the least worn on the rear?

I would also be doing the one wheel up test too.

It's definitely worth eliminating the 4X4 system before going further.
Click to expand...
You don't say whether you've checked/done this. It may be the issue but even if its not, its probably a lot more important than getting the engine running right.
 
symptoms of a stiffening VCU can include odd tyre ware patterns. When moving forward or reverse on full lock you have to use a little bit of throttle to keep it moving - it may feel like the handbrake is still on - rear tyres scuffing or even jumping when turning [forward] on lock.

A good FL1 4wd system will have: all tyres the same make [brand], size and inflation too.

A stiffened / stiffening VCU places great strain on the IRD [transferbox] and the diff as it transfers drive forward to the IRD. Normally drive is transferred to the rear wheels when needed and then returns to FWD. The VCU in good order slips in normal operation and only comes into 'play' transferring drive when the front wheels spin faster that the rears are turning. A stiff VCU doesn't slip as it should.

DO the one wheel up test [OWuT] - it can give a good guide as to what the VCU is like. Nearly 2 min's and the VCU is stiff. 30 sec's to a min' basically all is well.

Advice: do the OWuT ASAP. Check the tyres re make - size, inflation and condition. If they are a mixed bag consider removing the prop shaft and VCU as a unit - running as a front wheel drive vehicle. Likewise if the VCU is stiffened remove the prop shaft ...

If all the above is in good order - have a look at the VCU bearing either side of it. Check the diff mounts too - they can cause knocking /shuddering if faulty / worn out.
 
htr said:
symptoms of a stiffening VCU can include odd tyre ware patterns. When moving forward or reverse on full lock you have to use a little bit of throttle to keep it moving - it may feel like the handbrake is still on - rear tyres scuffing or even jumping when turning [forward] on lock.

A good FL1 4wd system will have: all tyres the same make [brand], size and inflation too.

A stiffened / stiffening VCU places great strain on the IRD [transferbox] and the diff as it transfers drive forward to the IRD. Normally drive is transferred to the rear wheels when needed and then returns to FWD. The VCU in good order slips in normal operation and only comes into 'play' transferring drive when the front wheels spin faster that the rears are turning. A stiff VCU doesn't slip as it should.

DO the one wheel up test [OWuT] - it can give a good guide as to what the VCU is like. Nearly 2 min's and the VCU is stiff. 30 sec's to a min' basically all is well.

Advice: do the OWuT ASAP. Check the tyres re make - size, inflation and condition. If they are a mixed bag consider removing the prop shaft and VCU as a unit - running as a front wheel drive vehicle. Likewise if the VCU is stiffened remove the prop shaft ...

If all the above is in good order - have a look at the VCU bearing either side of it. Check the diff mounts too - they can cause knocking /shuddering if faulty / worn out.
Click to expand...


Thank you for the great reaponse ok that sound simaler to my issue if im on lock it does need a little more welly il xheck tyres tommorow thanks alot :)
 
While you are under the car have a look at the lower engine tie bar. Its large rubber bush can fail - give a knock/ing when on - off the throttle. It's the motor moving B&F on its mounts - a fairly easy fix.

Anti Roll Bar [ARB] bushes, if worn are cheap and easy fix too. Drop links connect the ARB to the strut. Give them a good wiggle - movement = replacement. Not to expensive and can be easy to change.
 
Man this is stressing me out i canr find any issues oil was very slightly low apart from that under looks to be fine
 
So i drove on the motoway and it was great got it to speed then startd shuddering couple times violently got it home safley
 
I'm not sure exactly what that could be, but it sounds frightening! Does the steering wheel twitch in your hands?
Things that may cause a shudder: wheel balance out, faulty tyre/s, warped brake rotor - you'd only notice that when braking, misaligned VCU to its support bearings, poss faulty diff mounts - commonly felt when cornering at a lowish speed and under power. It could be a diff problem or an IRD problem

Those with greater experience / knowledge will hopefully jump in here with their thoughts.

However, when I replaced my VCU & bearings I had something similar. I'd get a bit of a shudder when accelerating. Turned out I hadn't aligned the bearing to the VCU accurately. The bearings must be parallel to the VCU. I measured off each flat face of the VCU to either side of the bearing on each end - front bearing and rear bearing. I made sure that the front measurement were the same and repeated the process for the rear. Much better. Haynes manual has a useful diagram for this too.

Don't be discouraged, as with any new car there is always issues to sort out. I really like mine, comfy, quiet, and not to hungry to run. Yes I've done a lot to it too.
 
its just getting very $$$ I think it could be the diff its going in to the garage on Monday as I cannot fix it lol I hope they can dignose
 
If its fine one minute and the next juddering like crazy - I'd have thought that's not mechanical. As JimS says - could be the ignition (coil packs) playing up.

Could also be a faulty 1st or reverse gear switch. If the HCD activated light is on and the 1st or reverse gear switches form a circuit the ABS ECU could be thumping the brakes. Can you feel/hear a definite quick repeating thump?
 
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