Newbie with a few questions please...

Hi all,

First of all my apologies if my questions have been asked previously - Unfortunately I couldn't see any topics relating to the questions I have in mind (please be gentle ;-)

I purchased a Freelander on Saturday. It's a 2002 V6 Auto. Beofre parting with my cash I drove it around and everything was ok. The stereo didn't seem to work but I was able to input the code (despite the display being unreadable - I've ordered a replacement) and it's fine now.

My questions are;

1) Many people seem to suggest that the 2.5 V6 should be avoided. Is this just because of the fuel costs at the moment or are there other things to watch? I understand that these engines have two (or three) cam belts however the belts on this one were changed at 70k and it's just over 100 now. Head Gasket etc seem all ok and it runs really smoothly.

2) Mine is the softback which is fine but I'd prefer a hardback ideally - Is it possible to just take the softback off and replace it with a hardback? I have seen a few available around the place at a reasonable cost and with winter coming up I think it may be better.

I think that's all of my questions for now. Thank you in advance for your wise words.

Andy.

upstream said:

Mine is the softback which is fine but I'd prefer a hardback ideally - Is it possible to just take the softback off and replace it with a hardback? I have seen a few available around the place at a reasonable cost and with winter coming up I think it may be better.

Click to expand...

yep, ebay is your friend.

Part No. STC7992

upstream said:

Hi all,

First of all my apologies if my questions have been asked previously - Unfortunately I couldn't see any topics relating to the questions I have in mind (please be gentle ;-)

I purchased a Freelander on Saturday. It's a 2002 V6 Auto. Beofre parting with my cash I drove it around and everything was ok. The stereo didn't seem to work but I was able to input the code (despite the display being unreadable - I've ordered a replacement) and it's fine now.

My questions are;

1) Many people seem to suggest that the 2.5 V6 should be avoided. Is this just because of the fuel costs at the moment or are there other things to watch? I understand that these engines have two (or three) cam belts however the belts on this one were changed at 70k and it's just over 100 now. Head Gasket etc seem all ok and it runs really smoothly.

2) Mine is the softback which is fine but I'd prefer a hardback ideally - Is it possible to just take the softback off and replace it with a hardback? I have seen a few available around the place at a reasonable cost and with winter coming up I think it may be better.

I think that's all of my questions for now. Thank you in advance for your wise words.

Andy.

Click to expand...

The fuel cost is what put me off the 2.5 and I know the cambelt change is costly and quite complex although I have never done it myself. The head gasket can go on a 2.5 but its not as prone to HG failure as the 1.8 petrol version, I think there can also be an issue with coolant leaks - I am sure someone who knows the 2.5 well will explain

Yes you can just remove the soft top and fit the hardback.

Wow - That was quick!
No sooner had I started to browse around, I received responses to my questions! Thank you very much for the information.

Andy.

the 2.5 is as prone to sequential HGF as the 1.8 - and costs twice as much to fix .

The Mad Hat Man said:

the 2.5 is as prone to sequential HGF as the 1.8 - and costs twice as much to fix .

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Didn't you blewed wun up flops ?

I diddlydodidded Minge Hgf a year before I bought it, a year after I bought it and two weeks after that. Exchanged it for my petrol X-Trail. More room and more economical and just as capable at towing n orf road.

...but if you drive sensibly, have regular oil changes and regularly check your coolant level everything should be ok...?

I'm seeking reassurance here guys - Anyone wanna reassure me...?

Anyone ;-)

Andy.

upstream said:

...but if you drive sensibly, have regular oil changes and regularly check your coolant level everything should be ok...?

Click to expand...

upstream said:

The above is exactly what we did before a dismal ending.
Replaced with a TD4.
Maybe if you only do a tiny mileage you might be lucky.

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Hmmm...
I just went out and checked coolant, oil and the fuel filler cap - Everything looks perfect. Doesn't anyone here drive the 2.5 V6?

:-(

Which brings me to an interesting observation...
Unlike any other car I've driven, the accelerator pedal sits lower than the brake pedal (not both at the same height).

Is this a design feature? If not - is there a way that I can adjust the accelerator pedal height so that it is the same as the brake pedal?

Thanks,

Andy.

No, no, no! Don't drive it!

You park it outside your window and admire it.

Every day you must check the coolant, oil, and that the fuel filler cap has not fell off!

Stop worrying and enjoy it.

Mañana, Pasado Mañana - Inshallah.

No comprendo?? Try google translate.

upstream said:

...but if you drive sensibly, have regular oil changes and regularly check your coolant level everything should be ok...?

I'm seeking reassurance here guys - Anyone wanna reassure me...?

Anyone ;-)

Andy.

Click to expand...

I think in life we like certainties and one is the Head Gasket will go - what is uncertain is just when!

Ask if anyone has a 1.8 or V6 that has not blown a gasket in the life of the car then ask the same of a TD4.

upstream said:

Which brings me to an interesting observation...
Unlike any other car I've driven, the accelerator pedal sits lower than the brake pedal (not both at the same height).

Is this a design feature? If not - is there a way that I can adjust the accelerator pedal height so that it is the same as the brake pedal?

Thanks,

Andy.

Click to expand...

Two questions Andy:

How many cars have you driven? and......

Why would you want the pedals level?

Any pros or cons?

I am absolutely not taking the **** here.

I am a former rally driver and am very happy with my Freelander.

I wish I had had a diesel Freelander back in the day when Roger Albert Clark was driving RS1600s - I may well have won the WRC.

If you are wondering who Roger Clark was ....... maybe it's time for me to head for the great forest stages in the sky........

Oh my, from nostalgia to fanboi ....... :doh: ...Rock on Tommy!

Singvogel said:

Two questions Andy:

How many cars have you driven? and......

Why would you want the pedals level?

Any pros or cons?

I am absolutely not taking the **** here.

I am a former rally driver and am very happy with my Freelander.

I wish I had had a diesel Freelander back in the day when Roger Albert Clark was driving RS1600s - I may well have won the WRC.

If you are wondering who Roger Clark was ....... maybe it's time for me to head for the great forest stages in the sky........

Oh my, from nostalgia to fanboi ....... :doh: ...Rock on Tommy!

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Now what about Paddy Hopkirk, I spent a fortune on really impressive parts for my 1960's Mini and it was still rubbish

nickcc said:

Now what about Paddy Hopkirk, I spent a fortune on really impressive parts for my 1960's Mini and it was still rubbish

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That's enough! I'm off to get out the Castrol R and the Glade Plug-In.

Hi Singvogel,

I'd say that I have owned around twenty cars and driven around forty in total. Everything from a Fiat Punto to an old 1972 Ford Cortina to S & X type Jaguars. Perhaps I just haven't been observant enough but I'm pretty sure that in all of these the brake and accelerator pedal heights were the same.

It's not a real issue for me although I do like the pedals to be level with each other - it was just that in the freelander, the different heights of the pedals seemed quite unusual so I wasn't sure whether it was meant to be this way or whether there was something amiss with mine and that it may need adjustment or something.

It may be something to do with my cars predominantly being automatics... Usually I just move from accelerator to brake without lifting my heel off the floor but with the Freelander I find myself moving my foot (lifting my heel). Just a personal preference I guess - a bit like me really liking BMW but hating the way they do their accelerator pedal with the hinge to the floor.

From your response shall I take it that having the accelerator pedal lower than that brake with Freelanders is normal?

Thanks,

Andy.

Hippo drives a V6 & is happy with it but even he says if buying another Freelander it'll be Td4 next time. A couple of guys on here have done the timing belts themselves but the last guy to do it said he'd happily pay a garage to do it again in future. As for pedals being level, I don't think I've ever owned a car where all the pedals were at the same height, didn't think that many cars would be like that seeing as the pedals do totally different things.

Hi Andy, this is an interesting esoteric subject.

I asked how many cars as a measure of your driving history.
I guess mine would be about the same so we are drawing on approx equal experiences.

The relative height of the pedals is not something I can say I have given much consideration to before you raised it. Off-set pedals - yes - I find Fiats and Alfa Rs quite uncomfortable on a long journey and get out of them with a stiff left leg.

I sometimes drive four or more vehicles in any one day so tend to fit in automatically / subconsciously to whatever I'm driving at the time.

I've just been to check what is sitting on my drive & in the garage at the moment.

I put a ruler on the brake and clutch pedals and looked to see the relationship to the accelerator. The Rover the BMW, and the Merc are the same to within a few millimetres. The accelerators are all approx 25 to 30 below the level of the others.

My auto Freelander has the acc some 20mm below the level of the brake pedal. And NO there is nothing amiss with yours.

In all of them, including the BMW i can move my foot from the acc to the brake without lifting my foot off the carpet.

I take your point about the BMW being rear-hinged. I found that difficult at first when I bought my first BM in 1982 after driving high powered fords for 10 - 15 years. I was upset that I could no longer easily 'heel & toe'. I soon learned that with the reserves of braking capability I had and the power on tap a more relaxed style was just as fast.

I wish you all the best and good luck with your V6 - enjoy it. I hope you manage to find a hard-top soon as it's snowing here and you're getting it next. The soft top will need a heater on max all the time I reckon.

Nice to discuss something different.

Regards, Singvogel.

Another v6 owner.

Fixx

Happy wiv mine but would get a diesel next time (din't choose mine).

upstream said:

...

1) Many people seem to suggest that the 2.5 V6 should be avoided. Is this just because of the fuel costs at the moment or are there other things to watch? I understand that these engines have two (or three) cam belts however the belts on this one were changed at 70k and it's just over 100 now. Head Gasket etc seem all ok and it runs really smoothly.
...

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My head gasket int gone yet. Engine seized at 500 miles but we din't have it at the time. Auto started leaking at 8k miles and changed at 12k. Bin ok since. Nearly done 30k miles.

Cam belt change is every 72k miles. There's 3 to do. Often peeps only change the main one. Others do main plus the one by the battery. 3rd is a sod to get to. Either remove the manifold (plastic) and all the bits on top or remove battery un phooter/fuse box un struggle a bit. that how I did mine.

Main dealer will want 5.1 hours labour plus parts at £602 + vat. They'll drop the engine/auto/ird out un change it on the floor. Can be done wiv engine etc in but it's more difficult. Space is a problem. When you've got a ramp plus all the kit it's easier to drop it. Independents will do it but it's a struggle to get one who will. Famous lr independents won't touch a v6 cam belt change. Even those who blag they provide power upgrades fer lr's won't do it. Rover garages will do it as it's a rover kv6 engine.

Yes they does have hgf failure. Not many v6 Freelanders were produced as peeps in the know knew they had a rover engine. Plagued wiv problems and many of them sorted – like shattering camshafts. Hence the large damper fitted. Bit some fault continued. Fool consumption is low. But you would expect that from a motor that can hit 85mph in 3rd gear. Even feathering it you'll not get as much mpg as a td4 auto would. I prefer to select gear, feel it engage un then accelerate. Tis betterer for yer auto. Eggspecially when you've forked out for a recon replacement.

Did the cam belt on mine meself. Never done one before. Home nechanic un just learning. Watched video's on Youtube and worked out what I had to do from what I could find on the web. You don't need a £550 locking tool set. Laser do the 4577 set which is much cheaper. Pic's below show my set fitted. Sell the set on ebay afterwards for the same price yer got it for. Around £200 at the moment. Did mine un dropped a stone in the main belt. End result knocked the rear cam out by 1 tooth. Knocked loudly. So had to get it apart again and set it up again. Worked fine un has done for 10k miles. Others int bin so lucky. Thermostat housing can split. Coolant leaks cause massive problems if not caught quickly.

They does get hot. Fans come on at over 100degrees C. I take mine orf road and keep the fans running by putting the air con on to help air flow. Have also fitted a coolant level switch as per MHM's suggestion as well as kers for that extra bit of power.

Belts:



Main belt:


P8161517 fNbiHAM


P8161433 Qv4sWYz

Belt by battery wiv tool fitted:


P8171547 NX5mzeD

Hidden belt at rear (viewed from front wheel steering arm) wiv tool fitted:


P8171600 TI0XYkD

fixx strange pic half missing above

Locking tool:


P8161448 Pp4JHjE

Thermostat housing:


P8161428 1FsazLQ

Crankshaft locking tool they don't tell you about which slots into the flywheel. Comes as part of the laser 4577 kit so yer don't need to buy the crankshaft pulley tool.


P8151270 C1x2kXB

And if yer does work on it yerself, or ask others too, then the auto level check is as below. Remove the wrong bolt on the back of the auto and loose reverse gear.


P4051811 MNkPShY

V6 cooling system:


coolingv6 cgqcYv2

About the kv6 and how to do the timing belts:










fixx