- Posts
- 33,643
- Location
- North Shropshire
I can see it's recently been taxed, so assume it's been on the road it may not need an MOT but I'll wager it would never pass without a lot of work
I've driven it a few times but it's not great at accelerating, turning or stopping so not a great combo right now. It doesn't need an MOT but it does need to be safe and will get that sorted once the chassis and bulkhead have been addressed.I can see it's recently been taxed, so assume it's been on the road it may not need an MOT but I'll wager it would never pass without a lot of work
A pop rivet gun has been used I think but doesn't look like a pro has been anywhere near this!Dunno what prices are like but a decent bulkhead might save a lot of pain, has the (aluminium!?) chequerplate been stuck on with mastic or done by a pro with a pop rivet gun?
I'm not trying to put you off or scare you, sometimes it's simpler and even cheaper to draw a line whether you are handy with a welder or getting someone to do work for you. Everything is fixable and there's loads of parts about
Certainly not pots of money but there will be jobs I can take on and others that I'll have to pay the piper so it just means it will take longer but that's the game right?
what does a days labour/garage time cost roughly in your experience?Labour is the killer, especially on an old land rover, simple jobs plus a few seized bolts in awkward places can add hours of time/cost.
Parts prices range from cheap to mental, most service stuff is sensible enough, rare parts is where the money is.
what does a days labour/garage time cost roughly in your experience?
Well I don't have a 9/16 prop tool nor a 52mm hub socket but tool station do so can sort that. The rest I have!No idea, I am a mech and so tight I squeak when I walk!
I can pretty much list on the fingers of one hand when I have had to pay someone to do stuff for me over the last decade or so.
Most garages will be scared of old land rovers as they know from experience just how quickly the job can go tits up, you really want the semi retired guy who does it because he enjoys it and will charge you accordingly.
Silly stuff like removing seat box to floor bolts, some easy to get to, others almost impossible without damaging the box itself.
Change brake shoes, turns into wheel cylinders leaking, then pipe unions seized into the cylinder so new pipes needed, then they are seized the other end, and before you know it the simple reline job is now into a couple days of labour, and the annoying thing is you will have to do them again in the next few years as some of the new parts are suspect quality, plus lack of use tends to wreck the brakes.
Conversely you dont need many special tools to work on them at home, 3/8 drive 9/16 prop tool and a 52mm hub socket main special tools, rest is generic everyday stuff.
Hammer, big fat chisel for lock tabs, 7/16 and a 1/2 inch brake pipe spanner.
This gives you a feel for the terrible handpaint job
and the seats and steering wheel which I reckon came out of an austin maestro
The bulkhead looks/feels/sounds like the problem.
I've driven it a few times
but it's not great at accelerating, turning or stopping
Dunno what prices are like but a decent bulkhead might save a lot of pain
Everything is fixable and there's loads of parts about
Well I don't have a 9/16 prop tool nor a 52mm hub socket but tool station do so can sort that
Well I don't have a 9/16 prop tool nor a 52mm hub socket but tool station do so can sort that. The rest I have!
No idea, I am a mech and so tight I squeak when I walk!
I can pretty much list on the fingers of one hand when I have had to pay someone to do stuff for me over the last decade or so.
Most garages will be scared of old land rovers as they know from experience just how quickly the job can go tits up, you really want the semi retired guy who does it because he enjoys it and will charge you accordingly.
Silly stuff like removing seat box to floor bolts, some easy to get to, others almost impossible without damaging the box itself.
Change brake shoes, turns into wheel cylinders leaking, then pipe unions seized into the cylinder so new pipes needed, then they are seized the other end, and before you know it the simple reline job is now into a couple days of labour, and the annoying thing is you will have to do them again in the next few years as some of the new parts are suspect quality, plus lack of use tends to wreck the brakes.
Conversely you dont need many special tools to work on them at home, 3/8 drive 9/16 prop tool and a 52mm hub socket main special tools, rest is generic everyday stuff.
Hammer, big fat chisel for lock tabs, 7/16 and a 1/2 inch brake pipe spanner.
That looks expensive if you don't do the work yourself...Here are the good ones. Worth noting that I've pushed and poked about and even thought he chassis looks terrible with rust and peeling paint it is solid. The bulkhead looks/feels/sounds like the problem. The pics of the driverside pillar and the nearside footwell tell the tale.
Let me know your thoughts!
That looks expensive if you don't do the work yourself...
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!