Series 2 New wiring harness fitted but now won't turn off

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
cornish rattler

cornish rattler

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,432
Location
Manc chester
Hi guys
As you may know on Saturday me and son fitted a new wiring harness to my 1970 2a rebuild which is very nearly complete but as regards turning the engine on and off ( 200tdi ) up to earlier today worked fine but after running the engine for an hour to see how the gauges are temp and stuff which all worked correct I then went to turn the engine off and it wouldn't turn off, any idea's :(
 
It stopped ok earlier?
If so, pull the terminal off the FIP and let us know if it then stops or carries on running.
 
is it a series 2 harness you have replaced or a 200 TDI seem to recall a diode fitted in the ignition warning light cable to the alternator to stop residual feed back holding fuel shut of valve open
 
So if it stops when you remove the feed of the FIP put a bulb/power probe in this cable to see if it’s still live & taking the power return form the alternator.
Engine running to do test then remove & watch
 
cornish rattler said:
it stops.
Click to expand...
That's good then, lesser of the two evils.
Solenoid is constantly receiving 12v regardless of switch position, I'm not familiar with series wiring but I should imagine you know which wire on the ign switch feeds the solenoid? Pull that off- does the engine stop?
 
Hicap phill said:
So if it stops when you remove the feed of the FIP put a bulb/power probe in this cable to see if it’s still live & taking the power return form the alternator.
Engine running to do test then remove & watch
Click to expand...
Could disconnect the alty belt to confirm as a quick test- watcha think?
 
Flossie said:
Could disconnect the alty belt to confirm as a quick test- watcha think?
Click to expand...
Unsure... thought it was bad to excite the alternator & not run it.

So remove belt & exciter wire to be sure.

(Also if the exciter wire removed it may not start good to prove though)
 
take a look at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/stop-solenoid-electical-problem.164026/#post-1630533 assuming it worked before on old series 2 harness still think it needs diode as on his wiring he had the resistor in circuit
Defender 1991 t0 1994 fuel shut off.png
also http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/81238/0/diode_pektron_def___disco1___rrc
 
A quick way to check if the alternator is holding the shut-off solenoid open is to run the engine, press the brake pedal to bring the brake lights on and then turn off the ignition, keeping the brake pedal down. This puts a load on the ignition-switched circuit that should exceed what the alternator can provide via the battery charge light. IF that stops the engine, then you need to fit a diode as per mysery's diagram above. Any low-power diode will work - you can find a 1N4007 for pennies on the internet. If that doesn't work then there's likely a wiring fault somewhere...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
Another series III brake fail wiring harness question.
Replies
7
Views
642
steve2286w
steve2286w
RoverGirl06
L322 2006 Range 4.4 fuel pump wiring harness
Replies
6
Views
1K
Gord Wedman
G
T
Custom wiring: Why does my land rover not start?
Replies
5
Views
643
Tony Monsantoe
Tony Monsantoe
Leomas
FL2 Odd electric issue
Replies
3
Views
264
Leomas
Leomas
S
1988 90 replacing lights with LEDs and have lots of questions
Replies
5
Views
853
sleepybear
S
Back
Top