new timimg belt fitted now white smoke

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

as my engine was out of the landy i had the timing belt fitted, new tensioner etc, the locating pins where used so i don't think the timing moved

now i have reinstalled and started the landy today, loads of white smoke
1) checked water level doesn't appear to be loosing any
2) no black smoke

when i start the engine and press hard on the accelerator there is a delay before the engine fires up

let the engine run for ages to normal operating temp. white smoke still there but not as bad

if my fuel injection pump was retarded can i adjust this in place?

pos · Feb 12, 2009

I had a similar problem after I replaced mine but as the belt stretched it started running sweet as a nut. I didn't bother locking anything in place, just tipexed the wheels and the housing then lined them back up again afterwards. If you're confident nothing has moved, you can actually rotate / rock the injection pump to retard or advance the injection timing BUt it may well have slipped or jumped a tooth on the injection pump. I'd suggest knocking it forwards a tooth if it seems a bit slow to respond.

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

pos
when you say knock it forward a tooth, do u mean take the cover off and move the timing belt

:doh::doh:

pos · Feb 12, 2009

First I'd just try adjusting the fuel pump externally. This involves slackening the pipes from the pump to the injectors as well as the feed pipes to and from the pump from the fuel filter housing. Next, take a sharp tool and scribe a line between the body of the fuel pump and the timing case (so that you have a default to go back to if you screw things up). Then slacken the nuts that secure the pump to the timing case (only slightly) and gently knock the top end of the pump towards the engine with the wooden end of a hammer so that if you are looking at the front of your engine, you are moving it in a clockwise rotation. MAKE SURE howeveer, that you only move it about 2mm looking at your scribe marks and then tighten things up, re-fit the pipes and fire it up. If it's made any difference just leave it be. If it's made a slight improvement, continue adjusting it in 2MM stages (gauging by the scribe marks) until the engine makes a loud clatter on full throttle. Then back it off 1mm and tighten everything up.

If this doesn't work then I know it's not what you want to hear, but I'd be tempted to adjust the belt yes. If you take the cover off and then mark everything up with tipex, slightly slacken the belt off again and then rotate the fuel pump sprocket clockwise one notch on the belt, which will advance the timing then just tighten everything back up.

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

pos

thanks for this, i will try the 1st method in the morning, fingers crossed

pos · Feb 12, 2009

No problem. The first method is actually what you should be doing to try and get your injection pump timing spot on anyway. It can be tweaked even slightly enough to make a massive difference in power and fuel consumption. 2MM will make a big difference, as I learned a year or so ago.

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

pos

just had a look at the pump, understand about 98% on what you wrote, on mine theres a securing bracket at the rear of the pump thats secured to the engine, this bracket has the throttle cable on the end of it, question is there doesn't appear to be slots in this bracket so how does the whole pump move

the nuts to loosen on the pump are there three of them:doh::doh:

pos · Feb 12, 2009

I've never had a problem with the bracket for the throttle cable and I'm pretty sure it's the same layout because they're the same pump all abide the extra block for the turbo which is separate. I am right in thinking its an old Turbo Diesel aren't I?

And yep I think there's 3 bolts holding it on

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

pos

300tdi engine

Tig9619 · Feb 12, 2009

did you pin the pump then take up the slack in the belt with the movement in the pump pulley (three 10mm bolts) when you did the tensioner up?
if you dont then the pump will move when you tighten the belt up.

CharlesY · Feb 12, 2009

That was all very good advice BUT you have told him to RETARD the pump, when he needs to ADVANCE it.

Looking from the front of the engine, to ADVANCE the injection timing rotate the pump ANTI-Clockwise, and that way injection takes place a tad sooner.

Moving the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine towards the right side wing is the other way to describe advancing it.

CHarlesY

pos · Feb 12, 2009

Becks Bear said:
pos

300tdi engine

Ohh! In your profile it says a TD! It's not much different but I'm not too sure whether or not you can manually adjust the pump externally on the 300's, or the 200's with the Bosch pumps. Try as suggested by Tig!

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

pos

sorry i updated my signature but didn't update my profile:doh::doh:

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

so can i advance the pump on my 300tdi

which might stop the white smoke

pos · Feb 12, 2009

Alright, no problem, it's a good old land rover diesel so that principles are still the same. FOLLOW CHARLESY'S ADVICE! I did tell you to retard the timing not advance it. So basically, as suggested, but away from the engine anti-clockwise. It does make physical sense when you think about it! Looks like we're slapping heads on all accounts :doh:

pos · Feb 12, 2009

CharlesY said:
That was all very good advice BUT you have told him to RETARD the pump, when he needs to ADVANCE it.

Looking from the front of the engine, to ADVANCE the injection timing rotate the pump ANTI-Clockwise, and that way injection takes place a tad sooner.

Moving the top of the pump AWAY FROM the engine towards the right side wing is the other way to describe advancing it.

CHarlesY

CharlesY, just as a matter of interest, when I followed your tips for timing the pump on my N/A, am I right in thinking that I was supposed to tilt the pump towards the engine or away from it then? I understand that towards is retarding and away from is advancing. I should have been advancing until it clattered, and then backing off, shouldn't I!? Not what I had been doing which was in fact retarding!?

Tig9619 · Feb 12, 2009

did you pin the pump then?

david451 · Feb 12, 2009

pos said:
Ohh! In your profile it says a TD! It's not much different but I'm not too sure whether or not you can manually adjust the pump externally on the 300's, or the 200's with the Bosch pumps. Try as suggested by Tig!

You are right the pump mounts are not elongated and it moves next to nothing, you are going to have to take the cover off and recheck everything, making sure in particular that the keys are not worn in the pulleys, in particular the crankshaft.

Once you have set it all back up using the pins turn it in the direction that it runs twice and see that the pins can still go back in. If it's ok tipex all the pulleys and you wont need the pins again, put 2 marks on each one this makes for a more accurate setting.

Becks Bear · Feb 12, 2009

tig9619

i used a 10mm and 8mm drill bits to lock the pulleys, i also had tipex on all the places i could mark, i really don't believe that i missed a tooth, however if the timing is out then i must have done something wrong

i hope i can advance the timing by moving the pump slightly

pos · Feb 12, 2009

It doesn't take much. A maximum of 6 mm usually makes all the difference

new timimg belt fitted now white smoke

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads