New sills and sliders made today (pic heavy)

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Would these non slip stuff be good for under wheel arches too? I like the idea that it will help stop stone chips etc might even add a bit of sound proofing?
 
Here's some pics on mine with the grip tape

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Works really well, and has stayed stuck in place, no matter what abuse has been thrown at them ;)
 
cheers for the positive comments chaps, and as you 3.5sister shagger, I will have you know my downspout is fine, although that is on the cards for this week too:eek:, im gonna shift the bulk of it inside the wing and find something a bit beefier for the top pipe



Tomp no problem mate, you make the brews and buy the steel and i will knock you up a set, when you popping round?



Hi DP, I just wish I had a fraction of your ability and talent, you do excellent fabrication work.

Dave
 
So after my relative success with the rear cross member, i made a start on the sills today , so i started with whipping the doors off so i could see what i had to do

which revealed this

so i took a few reference measurements just incase anything moved whilst it was in bits(yes that window is shattered :eek:, what can i say, Im a bit late with the tree sliders:eek:)

thei removed the old rock sliders, some silly barsteward had welded one on and bolted the other side on, so i just chopped it off and then cleaned up the cuts

and then i started to chop out the rot


I left the old body mounts in place at this point so i could get a better idea of where they needed to go back on, I then offered up my new sill box section, I chose 140x60x3.5 ish because i wanted the extra depth over the standard 110x60 to fix my tree sliders too and still have a flat smooth bottom edge to slide over rocks too

I cut this at 1.6 mtrs and then marked out for the leading and trailing edge with angles to help when i cut the arches back later

then i dropped a plumb line down to measure how far out i wanted the sliders and added 15mm for good measure to put them level with the outer edges of the tyres, i have 30mm spacers on and 235/85/16 special tracks and this puts the outer edges of the tyres out just outside the widest part of the body hence the 15mm


the it all came of again and the fabrication of the sliders began, I made these out of 40x40x3 box




then it was simply a case of welding it all into place and tacking it along the floor edge, which luckily wasnt so bad as i replaced a good chunk of that last year, the bottoms of both pillars were totally fubarred so i had to weld in some fresh saddle type arrangements for them, but i do believe you can buy ready made jobbies, and if i had planned ahead and still lived in the UK i probably would have bought a couple, but i am confident what i have done is plenty strong enough, not very pretty but strong.

Then it was a case of slapping some red oxide on them sticking the doors back on and coming home to hit the Jack






Job Jobbed, well one side anyway, it took about 8 hours all in but that was the first time i had done one so had all the angles to get right and lengths to work out, i reckon the other side will take me about 4 hours, im sure if you were motivated or had some help you could do both sides easily in a day without any hassle.



So what do you think then?
I think I will add "learn to weld" onto me bucket list, scrapped a well loved disco on the advice the corrosion was too advanced to repair and it wasn't half as bad as the corrosion on yours, ta.
 
I think I will add "learn to weld" onto me bucket list, scrapped a well loved disco on the advice the corrosion was too advanced to repair and it wasn't half as bad as the corrosion on yours, ta.

Gonna do the same to my rotten bent and buckled sills, I think your advised to scrap if you can't weld as it would be more cost effective and cost loads for a garage to do it.

I bought a discovery unaware it was a project not a car :rolleyes:, so by the time I've welded all the bad bits / missing bits I thinks the disco will be new :)
 
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