New Richards Chassis!!

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Hi mate! Actually, PLOT TWIST! I phoned them up today, asked where they sourced their chassis from, etc etc, they had a 6 week wait, but when I said about being pretty desperate they bent over backwards to have a re-shuffle, and they reckon they'll have it ready for collection 1st week of October!! So I canceled the order to Richards, and am now awaiting a Marslands one! :)
 
GATSO said:
great decision,,,,marslands are gkn ,,original landy
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If I ever do another rebuild I could be tempted with a Marsland. This is because the nearside tubular outrigger on my RC chassis is 1cm away from touching the tub. Now that I think about it I've had to put three washers between the nearside bulkhead and chassis leg. Hmmmm? On the same side. :rolleyes: The wall thickness of the RC chassis is pretty thick though!
Having said that, there'll be someone along to tell us about a problem with a Marsland chassis soon.
 
GATSO said:
great decision,,,,marslands are gkn ,,original landy
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Cheers mate! Can't wait to get stuck in!! :)

Fairy101 said:
How much was the marsland chassis I'm looking to do my 300 90 that's all it's looking patchy haha
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How do mate, they quoted £1300 then plus vat, is £1560. I think a Richards one was £1434 inc vat, but tbh Marslands are a bit closer, so I save on fuel, and the fact that they use original chassis was a big plus mark for me!
 
Fairy101 said:
How much was the marsland chassis I'm looking to do my 300 90 that's all it's looking patchy haha
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Do your research if you have a 300 90 as I believe Marshland chassis are based on TD5 chassis so you may end up having to buy a TD5 rear fuel tank plus associated pipework and a 300 TDI towbar wont fit on a TD5 chassis.
 
While you're doing the re-chassis, consider galvanised shock turrets etc. Shame to bolt rusty bits onto a nice shiny chassis! If you're taking the body apart rather than doing it "in one piece" I'd also swap any non structural screws bolts for stainless versions.
 
zeaphod said:
While you're doing the re-chassis, consider galvanised shock turrets etc. Shame to bolt rusty bits onto a nice shiny chassis! If you're taking the body apart rather than doing it "in one piece" I'd also swap any non structural screws bolts for stainless versions.
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stainless will corrode the alu. should be fine on the zinc unless you live by the sea.

i'd just use normal zinc plated and spray em/dinitrol/bilthamber
 
Definitely no stainless unless separated by a non-electrically-conductive barrier. I use galvi washers everywhere I can and high-tensile hardware with a chromate coating - it holds up very well.

Alan
 
No problems with stainless so far here, but the contact points had been painted before assembly. Compared to the mess of rusty bolts/corroded alloy beforehand it's a much neater job.
 
Good choice
I found marshlands easier to work with
no bull sh### delivery dates
and i was impressed with the build qty
and if Gatso is saying they are good
then what more do you need :p
 
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Cheers lads that helps! Just done a big service there just the diffs to do this week but don't know which pinion seals to order as there are 2 types, mines a 95 model and thinking it will be a later thinner seal!? Anyone shed any light?
Was just going to order both and send one back lol
 
Firstly, she's DONE!!!!

Thankyou all very much for the helpfull tips and advice!
The Marsland chassis was totally spot on, and fitted the body with less spacers than the original chassis had!
In the end I took the front end off (rad, intercooler and wings) then lifted the rest on a scaffold set up, worked really well! Had to replace the fuel filter inlet mount, repair the exhaust and tank plate, and a bit of ally corrosion under the rear tub! Finished late Tuesday night, and am over the moon with the result! Thanks once again all, will post pics if wanted! :)
 
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