New problem. noise from front (SOLVED!!!)

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Charlot

Charlot

Active Member
Posts
201
Location
Malta
Todays problem: 2000 5dr TD4 Manual .

have a knocking coming from the front end of the car.

-When accelerating on 1st and 2nd, everything fine No noise,
-Then from 3rd gear up when accelerating from around 1500revs up the Knocking starts at about 35mph.
-It increases with the revs and when releasing the accelerator it stops.
-Noise comes only when accelerating, not when braking, cruising or idle.
-No noise when turning left or right and none on reverse cv-joint improbable but not excluded.

Have recently installed a 50mm lift kit and double checked the work.
Everything tight and roll bar not touching suspension.
Also whilst fitting the front right shaft came out but was checked and reinstalled back in.
No play in both front shafts, except for 1mm ish movement (normal I suppose)
Prop shaft looks ok and no play, Bearings have been replaced 2 months ago together with VCU.
VCU warm but never hot after trips so I'm assuming it's ok.
IRD and gear box oil changed at last service 2 months ago and oil was clean without metal fragments. and no Cracks
Diff mountings replaced too.

Any Ideas please?
 
It could be the drive shaft, inner CV joints. They will now be running in a new position, now the hight has increased. My D3 had a slight vibration if it was at off road hight.
I would be checking the lower engine tie bar too.
 
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Would also make sense as it has been doing it since raising the front end although not from day 1. But also noise is not as sharp as that of a bearing or cv joint nor doing it when pulling away
 
The CV joints get worn in over time. They will develop a visible wear patern ( or set) where the rollers slide in the groves. I would think that the new hight has changed the angle enough to cause a vibration.
This phenomenon is well known then the lower tie bar bush goes sofe. It allows the engine to shift enough for the CVs to run in a new position, giving the vibration.
So it could be the lower tie bar bush or the lift that has caused it. If it is the lift. The only remedy is to replace the drive shaft responsible. If the vibration started after the lift, there's your answer ;)
If it is CV related, you need to sort it quickly, or it'll damage the bearings in the box or IRD, or both.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The CV joints get worn in over time. They will develop a visible wear patern ( or set) where the rollers slide in the groves. I would think that the new hight has changed the angle enough to cause a vibration.
This phenomenon is well known then the lower tie bar bush goes sofe. It allows the engine to shift enough for the CVs to run in a new position, giving the vibration.
So it could be the lower tie bar bush or the lift that has caused it. If it is the lift. The only remedy is to replace the drive shaft responsible. If the vibration started after the lift, there's your answer ;)
If it is CV related, you need to sort it quickly, or it'll damage the bearings in the box or IRD, or both.
Click to expand...
Inspected again the problem and looks like its an IRD bearing will be taking the IRD out and buying a bearing kit. will keep the thread updated.
 
Charlot said:
Inspected again the problem and looks like its an IRD bearing will be taking the IRD out and buying a bearing kit. will keep the thread updated.
Click to expand...
Just seen this thread. The 1mm play you mentioned is NOT normal at all. As you have now identified it down to the ird bearing (drivers side (uk) point where inner cv enters IRD) then IMO the vehicle should definitely not be driven at all. The knocking 'could' be coming from the cv joint itself, But could possibly also be coming from the internals of the ird gear teeth alignment Which WILL be shifting and attempting to destroy themselves!! - (the gears alongside the differential from the concentric shaft / diff to the output shaft). If this is the case then you 'may' get away with a rebuild and new bearings - but....... Don't risk driving it or catastrophic ird failure can and probably will occur.

The rebuild should include ALL bearings - especially the output crown-wheel support bearings which will more than likely have taken a real hammering.

I would, at this stage, question the viability and practicality of 50 mm lifts. I must admit that I am unaware of how many vehicles have been fitted with them ? -they may well have a proven track record . In your case the fault must have been there prior to the fitting, the fitting would have just been the straw that broke the camels back - hopefully didnt break any gear teeth edges at the same time .:(
If the differing shaft / cv angle is placing an excessive strain on the IRD output bearing then failure rates could well increase and may be much more sudden in manifestation.
Perhaps there are many fitted and transmissions / shafts etc are great ? I simply do not know.
 
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Joe_H said:
Just seen this thread. The 1mm play you mentioned is NOT normal at all. As you have now identified it down to the ird bearing then IMO the vehicle should not be driven at all. The knocking 'could' be coming from the cv joint itself, But could possible also be coming from the internals of the ird gear teeth alignment - the gears alongside the differential. If this is the case then you 'may' get away with a rebuild and new bearings. DOnt risk driving it or catastrophic ird failure can and probably will occur.
Click to expand...

Agreed. There should be minimal play in the CV support bearings.
 
I also feel it is appropriate to add that I would not trust a 'bearing kit' unless it was from a VERY reputable supplier.
Timken bearings have been the subject of huge counterfeiting - along with most bearings - by cheap Chinese crap.
Personally I would buy them from a bearing factor. :(

Just search google on timken fake counterfeit -
 
It has been garaged and will replace the necessary things.

Im suspecting the bearing was on its way and the recent stress put on it had it breaking.

Will remove IRD and inspect bearings and gear teeth then replac the complete bearings and gears needed.
 
Im jumping to conclusions here but if a 50mm lift kit was installed then has the car been used a lot off road since? If so you would be putting the drive train under a great deal more pressure. As I've just fitted a 50mm lift kit and plan to go off road myself I'm very interested in this.
 
Alibro said:
Im jumping to conclusions here but if a 50mm lift kit was installed then has the car been used a lot off road since? If so you would be putting the drive train under a great deal more pressure. As I've just fitted a 50mm lift kit and plan to go off road myself I'm very interested in this.
Click to expand...
Nope only road use and happened after 2nd day. That's why I suspect it was already on its way. I can understand that the angle of the shafts may be a little "un confortable" but still only when jacked up. When sitting on the ground its still within the limits.
Mine is a year 2000 freelander and have owned it only since last june suspect all bearings and ird are origional. Vcu and bearings have been replaced by myself as a precaution but previous one was still good after testing.
Guess the new movement had it braking. If yours is ok without any noise or vibration, then it should be good. But still pay attention to any new developments.
 
Charlot said:
Nope only road use and happened after 2nd day. That's why I suspect it was already on its way. I can understand that the angle of the shafts may be a little "un confortable" but still only when jacked up. When sitting on the ground its still within the limits.
Mine is a year 2000 freelander and have owned it only since last june suspect all bearings and ird are origional. Vcu and bearings have been replaced by myself as a precaution but previous one was still good after testing.
Guess the new movement had it braking. If yours is ok without any noise or vibration, then it should be good. But still pay attention to any new developments.
Click to expand...
Btw mine has 172800 miles on the clock so had quite a journey.
 
Ok so removed IRD and opened. All bearings are fine including oil seals and teeth. Only damage I found are 2 shims .5mm in the diff inside the ird. replaced and movement is gone.
Installed everything back in place, took it for a drive but noise still there.

Any other ideas? I 'm thinking of replacing whole front shafts now.
Starting to hate it.
 
Alibro said:
Have you tried running it without the prop shaft to see what happens?
Click to expand...
Will be trying today as rear bolts where damaged and couldn't take it off. And when I saw the play in the IRD I stopped looking for tge problem and removed the IRD for repairing. Which ended up being in very good condition. And also because this happened after the lift. Could also be a coincidence.
Today will try removing at lease the front prop see how it goes.
 
Ok removed front prop and noise still there. Here is a video you can hear the noise at 9sec and 18sec in video sorry if not yhe best quality but should give an idea.
 
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