New Owner EAS fault

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theoretically yes, but that would require failed or failing MOSFET to also break the comparator IC driving it, which then dumps volts back to the ECU. . .. but unlikely a failed Chip could pass enough current to damage the ECU.. Don't know whether the ECU outputs are protected, but I would expect at least some protection from wiring faults & lesser experienced workshop bods.

This would be quite a major failure, and probably blow some fuses.
 
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pwood999 said:
theoretically yes, but that would require failed or failing MOSFET to also break the comparator IC driving it, which then dumps volts back to the ECU. . .. but unlikely a failed Chip could pass enough current to damage the ECU.. Don't know whether the ECU outputs are protected, but I would expect at least some protection from wiring faults & lesser experienced workshop bods.

This would be quite a major failure, and probably blow some fuses.
Click to expand...

Not a reasonable assumption that driver pack could cause a incorrect pressure signal in an unassociated circuit then.
 
Datatek said:
Electrical noise may well feed back from the driver pack to the ECU causing it to throw a wobbly, the pressure fault may just be a default error.
Click to expand...

According to Land rover bumff the pressure constantly high/low recorded fault can be a misinterpretation by the ECU of a driver pack problem. So yes replacing the driver pack would remove that fault. So it would seem the ECU gets confused and says the back door is open when the front one is shut, if you know what i mean. There are several fault codes that can be one thing or another it would seem.
 
Just to throw something else in the mix. I had the pressure fault come up 3 or 4 times back in the early spring, which I cleared each time with the software with the intention of investigating further.
I then drilled the eas box lid for ventilation after reading advice on here (from Datatek I'm sure) to keep the pump a bit cooler ready for the summer.
After this never had the pressure fault re appear. Don't know if this could be related or if its just one of those things, but been fine for 4 months now.
 
kevwill said:
Just to throw something else in the mix. I had the pressure fault come up 3 or 4 times back in the early spring, which I cleared each time with the software with the intention of investigating further.
I then drilled the eas box lid for ventilation after reading advice on here (from Datatek I'm sure) to keep the pump a bit cooler ready for the summer.
After this never had the pressure fault re appear. Don't know if this could be related or if its just one of those things, but been fine for 4 months now.
Click to expand...

Think several people have reported problems going away or at least lessening after venting the EAS box. Possibly a make do and mend solution rather than correcting the fault though. But if it works go for it.
 
Wammer you are correct as usual . . . No need to vent the EAS Box. . . . fix it properly.
  1. Just fit the correct seals to Valve Block
  2. Double check all pin connections in multi-plugs
  3. Make sure the compressor has the correct size seal (details in EAS Sticky), so the compressor runs better and doesn't get so hot
  4. Find & Fix all air leaks on external pipes
  5. Reset faults and enjoy.

Pete
 
pwood999 said:
Wammer you are correct as usual . . . No need to vent the EAS Box. . . . fix it properly.
  1. Just fit the correct seals to Valve Block
  2. Double check all pin connections in multi-plugs
  3. Make sure the compressor has the correct size seal (details in EAS Sticky), so the compressor runs better and doesn't get so hot
  4. Find & Fix all air leaks on external pipes
  5. Reset faults and enjoy.

Pete
Click to expand...

Bit like bolting a drip try under the sump to cure an oil leak. :D:D:D
 
kevwill said:
Just to throw something else in the mix. I had the pressure fault come up 3 or 4 times back in the early spring, which I cleared each time with the software with the intention of investigating further.
I then drilled the eas box lid for ventilation after reading advice on here (from Datatek I'm sure) to keep the pump a bit cooler ready for the summer.
After this never had the pressure fault re appear. Don't know if this could be related or if its just one of those things, but been fine for 4 months now.
Click to expand...
You sure? could it not have been Rachael ? Did you put the blue eyelets in?:D:D
 
pwood999 said:
Just to add a bit, I definitely found Driver Pack causing EAS weirdness.
  1. Original pack has bad joint where the wiring enters the compound. Still slowly de-potting it to see if I can fix the dry joints.
  2. Replacement seemed to work ok initially, but was intermittent after a few days. Finally found the fault, which was the sockets inside the connector between the driver pack and solenoids (C139 & C140 in Rave). Tightened all 12 of them individually, and now the solenoids operate when told to !!

Pete
Click to expand...

Pardon my ignorance but when you say tighten them do you mean squeezing the connectors to ensure a tight fit?
 
kevwill said:
Just to throw something else in the mix. I had the pressure fault come up 3 or 4 times back in the early spring, which I cleared each time with the software with the intention of investigating further.
I then drilled the eas box lid for ventilation after reading advice on here (from Datatek I'm sure) to keep the pump a bit cooler ready for the summer.
After this never had the pressure fault re appear. Don't know if this could be related or if its just one of those things, but been fine for 4 months now.
Click to expand...
Yes I started that, it worked for some months on mine but the problem eventually came back. Hopefully the cooler environment will benefit the replacement driver pack.:D
 
wammers said:
According to Land rover bumff the pressure constantly high/low recorded fault can be a misinterpretation by the ECU of a driver pack problem. So yes replacing the driver pack would remove that fault. So it would seem the ECU gets confused and says the back door is open when the front one is shut, if you know what i mean. There are several fault codes that can be one thing or another it would seem.
Click to expand...
That makes sense.
 
Gazza,
Yes I took each socket out of the plastic housing, and squeezed it gently so the pin makes good contact. You only need one pin to check the fit (I used the pressure switch Pin, I removed earlier ! ), and then re-insert each socket into the housing when done. If you do one at a time you cannot get them wrong when re-fitting.

Just for clarity, my repair, test & repair sequence was:
  1. Replace compressor piston ring & valve o-ring
  2. Replace all valve seals - then refit to car & test. Still got strange behaviour.
  3. Remove from car & re-check valve operation. This is when I found the loose connections.
  4. Squeeze sockets, reassemble, refit to car. Strange behaviour gone.
  5. Slow to rise in morning, so re-checked the pump o-ring. It was wrong so replaced with correct thickness (1.83 mm).

Pete
 
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wammers said:
True, some early diesels had problems with battery drain caused by EAS delay relay. But a simple fix of a resistor on the OBDII socket cured that. Also if your delay relay is faulty fit a new one.
Click to expand...

Something else for me to worry about now!

I have noticed my EAS communicates without the ignition key in but on another (later) P38 I tried this and it didn't. Surprised me.

Is the EAS software the same for all years or did that improve over the years too?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Something else for me to worry about now!

I have noticed my EAS communicates without the ignition key in but on another (later) P38 I tried this and it didn't. Surprised me.

Is the EAS software the same for all years or did that improve over the years too?
Click to expand...

Don't know to be honest will have a dig and try and find out. Wiring looks same on all versions apart from a different fuse feed 99 and on. But a few fuse feeds changed for MY 1999 with a revised fuse box. Maybe delay relay changed. Can't get Microcat up at the moment.
 
The car I couldn't get the Nanocom to talk to without the key in was a 1998, I think. R reg anyway. I guess someone might have done the trick to stop it self-levelling.
 
I just need to open the door, plug the Nano in and off she goes. Mine's a 1995 DT.

If I switch the engine off it records for a while and then the EAS seems to switch off. Then I have shut down the Nano and unplug then plug in again and it works again.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I just need to open the door, plug the Nano in and off she goes. Mine's a 1995 DT.

If I switch the engine off it records for a while and then the EAS seems to switch off. Then I have shut down the Nano and unplug then plug in again and it works again.
Click to expand...
The devil finds work for idle hands:rolleyes:
 
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