New member/P38 owner in Swindon

Enthusiastman said:

Cheers albeit i am no sparky so would not try this myself TBH. Are you saying then if i cut the BLUE wire on my current module then it will no longer be affected by outside forces in the night thus flattening my vehicle battery???

I currently have my car connected to my C-tek charger as its a brand new battery fitted last week so keeping it alive 100%. I only have 1 remote key fob which the dash display keeps saying the batteries in it are low but i am waiting for a new fob repair kit to arrive as the rear cover is badly butchered and i don't want to take it off until i have new batteries and the new cover to fit on it until i can get a new key fob done for me.
I cannot understand as to why LR did not recall the cars if this interference issue was such a big issue. ??. I have also read there are two differing types?? a blue dot and a green dot, the latter being the upgraded item which protects the car from outside forces in the night. LOL.
If i change this module for a later one do i have to have it coded in to the car for it to work or is it a simple unplug and remove and replace and plug back in job???
I am no sparky and do not wish to be either. I hate car electrics of any nature.

Regards, Brendan

Click to expand...

kurtjohnson10 said:

Welcome to the forum mate - enjoy

Click to expand...

brianp38dse said:

No the blue wire is the Arial wire the switch powers off the red and black wires and switches the orange wire which is feed to the becm that the lock unlock signal is sent down.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

FIP timing out will make it smoke and sound like a bag of nails. Remap in the mix along with cheapy MAF MAP hard to deduce without seeing it.
Your only option If you are on your own without the know how is probably Nanocom 06 at this point. would say fuelling out of range or something to that effect.
Difficult to trust other diagnostics tools with EDC as it’s a one off job not obd2 compliant

If it’s booked in for November wait see what they find, I agree you need someone familiar to look at it.

Click to expand...

Enthusiastman said:

Cheers, I am now also thinking the timing might be off slightly. The 2 x new sensors although not OEM did cost each £70 which i dont consider cheap but it is possible they could not be upto the job. They look 100% identical to the ones i took off which were OEM items and most likely the original ones too.
The car is in excellent order and is ultra rare as a Westminster 2.5 TD plus she is an 02 last of the run model and fully loaded and with all the new bits fitted she is going to be a minter plus all the previous history and the last owner spending £8000 on her in 2017 she is or so i thought was bullet proof and the main reason i bought her.

It has just really peeved me off now and interest in the car is dwindling rapidly. I am now into the car for nearly £8500 including all the brand new bits i have bought for her in advance to make her perfect. I am at the stage now if someone made me a decent offer i would let them have it and all the new bits too and write it off as a bad experience never to be repeated.

Click to expand...

Mark Piercy said:

You need to stop throwing money at it. If the appointment is the 18th then wait until someone has looked at it in person and hope they know this car. Your burning through money like there's no tomorrow without any idea of what the problem is. This one needs a person on hand to get stuck in.. Please stop buying parts on a whim... It'll only make you feel worse..

Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:

Well you certainly know how to spend money,you don't work for a main dealer do you ? They keep changing bits until the problem is solved. You say it starts for cold and more importantly Hot so I would say there's not much wrong with the timing, but that's just a guess. Can you get someone to increase the revs while you put your hand by the exhaust tailpipe? to check you have exhaust gases actually coming out, if not I'm guessing the Cat has collapsed internally (your metallic rattle) worth a punt and it's Free. Welcome to the madhouse by the way.

Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:

Or keep spending then accept a cheeky bid from me.

Click to expand...

Enthusiastman said:

That is a possibility i suppose as i had a rattly cat on a car years ago albeit rattled all the time even on idle. It only rattles when driven hard and when i rev it up there is no fragments coming out the rear tail pipes, only smoke and crud splatters from i am guessing the fuel treatment i put in the tank. I do have a new exhaust system to fit albeit only from the cat back but it might be worth buying the front bit too.

Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:

STOP. Remove the middle box take it for a drive see if it makes a difference and I dont mean to the noise level.

Click to expand...

Enthusiastman said:

Hi buddy, i rang them last week and spoke with Alex, they are fully booked for the next 6 weeks and are down to just 1 mechanic at the moment albeit Alex very kindly pointed me toward Greg & Dudley @ G&D automotive in Minety. I visited them yesterday morning and had a really nice chat with Greg who has booked me in for the 18th of November for a full diagnosis and hopeful repair. That is the best they can do for now for me.
In the mean time today i have been tinkering again and ran her on the driveway and took her for short runs local. Still down on power and smoking BUT i think alot of the smoke is the fuel treatment i had added to the 1/4 of a tank of diesel which is pushing it through the system and out the back zorst pipes. LOL.
Its like emergency smoke withdrawal scene from my Army days. LOL.
A mate popped round today with his " snap on " scanner and plugged in to my OBD port. Surprised to seee there were no faults codes showing or any stored codes either which was a good sign. We also took off the intercooler pipe to Turbo with engine running and she was sucking well indeed so all ok there too.

I have driven her today and actually managed to get her up to 70 mph where as last few days she has struggled to get above 45 mph with smoke. I can also hear a metallic sort of rattle sound/clicking under hard acceleration which makes me think its the Turbo actuator compensating for lack of power/boost.???

She revs up lovely and settles down perfect on idle with no hunting on the rev counter either. She starts perfect from stone cold and also from hot after about 3-5 cranks on the key.
We unplugged the mass air flow sensor with engine running and noticed a drop and plugged it back in and noticed it pick up. No check engine light came on but it did store it in the scan codes which we cleared. I have a new mass airflow sensor coming Monday to try as a process of illimination.

All guages are perfect and all fluids are perfect and no signs of any leaks or losses anywhere. A small bit of oil on the bottom of the Turbo underside where the hard plastic intercooler pipe connects on the back of the Turbo but nothing major to worry about ( YET ).
I think i will just have the Turbo fully refurbished anyway as the car has just clocked up 106k from new with a great service history record file so it has been looked after in the past by previous owners at main dealers and in 2017 by Turner Performance in Hemel Hemstead over alternating 4 month periods to the tune of £8000 spent by the last owner on all sorts including a stage 1 remap from standard 138 bhp to 180 bhp with NO EGR delete.

Shortly after all these works were done the previous owner traded the car back to the dealer who sold it to me albeit has has had it dry stored in his hangar for the last 2 years stood still. He woke it up in July of this year and had it M.O.T'd and nothing else. He most likely ran it up on old diesel too in the tank and he did not service it either. I have however carried out a full lubrication service less for coolant and brake fluid flush but it had an all new ABS pump and sensors fitted in 2017 so the fluid looks fine and the brakes all work perfectly. I have also bought a full set of drilled/grooved discs and new pads to fit also.

I will get there in the end and will be able to enjoy her fully ( I hope ) so in the mean time i am fitting my light guard set, my new exhaust system, my front steering arm rod and new gearbox oil cooler pipes which should keep me busy until she goes in to G&D for a expert check over.
Regards,

Click to expand...

Enthusiastman said:

Cheers for the " top tip " my friend. I already have a new exhaust system waiting to be fitted including the front Cat pipe and also a centre silencer delete pipe too. I just bought the whole lot as the current system on the car looks like its the original one from new and the 2 rear boxes are rusty as hell so it made sense to change the whole lot and tick it off the list of things to do.

Just need access to a lift now and a mate to assist me in fitting it .

Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:

You could always lift the suspension to high and use axle stands easy to remove the middle box then

Click to expand...

Enthusiastman said:

Yes buddy i do have a pair of those low profile ramps i could use but seeing as i have ordered a full new zorst system it makes sense to change the lot at the same time me thinks and then i don't need to go there again.
I have been praying to " God " for the last few since since it went dudd on me albeit as of yet he has not answered me. LOL

Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:

I was just making suggestions to try and pinpoint your problem, normally I would say change the air and fuel filters firstly but you say they have been changed, you have fuel to the injectors, the MAP sensor pipe is clear,is the manifold nipple blocked? Unless you have access to the timing kit don't go there. You have done the basics is it worth changing the fuel filter again and pour the contents into a clear container to check if you have any crud in the bottom. With it standing unused you can get a bacteria growth in the diesel tank, chin up.we normally deal in Midget Gems and if we can come to an agreement I'll even include the black ones.

Click to expand...

RangeRoller dt said:

That does look like it’s had money spent on it.

One thing that occurs to me, if it’s been standing years have you tried draining the fuel filter water drain thingy mebob?

Click to expand...