new engine fittes :) old one up for grabs

so the engine would be ok if all the above parameters were true! mmm sounds like someone may well be kicking themself at spending all that cash!!

Definately Gav.
If it was me, I would have used Plastigage to check the crank bearing clearances in addition to measuring the crankpins with a micrometer after they had been reground plus checking the end float of the crank and getting it to the minimum by fitting oversize thrusts.
Another thought just sprang to mind-If the block was bored and Top Hat liners fitted, is it correct to assume that the same people reground the crank etc. Did they reassemble the bottom half to the block?-if so-they should put it right if they made a balls up-at their cost.

Irishrover said:

Definately Gav.
If it was me, I would have used Plastigage to check the crank bearing clearances in addition to measuring the crankpins with a micrometer after they had been reground plus checking the end float of the crank and getting it to the minimum by fitting oversize thrusts.
Another thought just sprang to mind-If the block was bored and Top Hat liners fitted, is it correct to assume that the same people reground the crank etc. Did they reassemble the bottom half to the block?-if so-they should put it right if they made a balls up-at their cost.

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i wouldnt have done any of that cos i have never stripped a car engine(except the heads and parted various engines from boxes) i wouldnt have evn checked the pressure of the oil, i wouldn't know how to!

although probably capable of doing all them stuff i would have learned it all on the job(and advise of uncle) as for the people who ground crank etc i would assume if they are proffesional enough to regrind cranks and machine blocks then they can check tolerances! if not then i will apply for a job there if i get made redundant!!

all the above is probably why my car is currently sorned!! lol!!!!

The oil pressure does increase to max of 55psi before the relief valve lifts and that is as soon as the revs increase. If you read rave regarding the engine, the output at the oil pump at tick over 750 - 1000 rpm should be around the 20 psi mark. I had no oil pressure hence the light and the followers were starting to relax due to low pressure. This was only once the oil was warm.

I have had and run many V8's over the years and have never had little to no pressure at tick over. And have never had a oil light flickering on.

Still dosnt explain what is up with the lump mind.

The block and crank was measured and reground by repeatable company, they have done 5 v8's for us over the last 18 months with no issues what so ever. I would never doubt there work. and the engine run as sweet as a nut for 15k with no issues.

If it dosnt find a new home. I am going to pull it apart and have the block measured and checked at work. If it is okay will build it again for my current project.

Never mind measuring the block-what's that going to tell you????-It's the crank/bearings that need checking first with regard to clearance & end float.

so it looks like its a crank issue?. well that i can check easily. The end float/thrust is set with the middle shell on the big end journal. I have no reason to doubt these as they have been replaced.

I will pull the crank this weekend and get it checked. Maybe I have been looking at this all wrong. If it is a mater of having the crank reground and over size shells fitted, then great.

The only reason I was going to check the block, as this seams to be the only component which hasn't been changed thats all.

I was under the impression that the crank had been reground-sorry.
The thrusts are available in oversizes also if needed.
End float can be checked with feeler gauges, but I prefer a dial indicator on the end of the crank with the thrusts fitted.