New engine fitted... still got issues.. HELPPP

Mike v.t.s said:

thanks for all the replys, where is the crank sensor?? dont forget mines an auto and it acts like the torque convertor is locking up as or when i drop it in gear, i used the test equip at work to diagnos the faults i found, i did get the following 2 codes from it, gearbox fault code was 0021 and engine fault code was 0136... any ideas< many thanks

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wammers said:

Yes but the number four injector would not plug into the existing loom either way round. EGR and none EGR are different connectors. As i understand it if number four injector packs up engine speed is derived just from crank sensor and ECU defaults to a preset value placing engine in limp mode. If crank sensor packs up completely engine won't run at all.

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Datatek said:

Trouble is different readers give different codes for the same fault, my flash code list doesn't contain that engine fault code as they are all 2 digit, however the flash code for crank sensor failure is 31. Without looking (I'm busy packing) I think the crank sensor is below the starter motor on the bell housing, just the sort of place where it might have got a clout when changing the engine. The symptoms though point more to the needle lift sensor as crank sensor failure is supposed to result in a high tickover There are different needle lift sensors according to
whether the engine has EGR or not, if you have swapped an EGR engine for non EGR or vice versa, the sensor will be wrong for the ECU.

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Yes i understand that but Mr Datatec but would a faulty crank sensor give the problem of engine revs sometimes dropping harsh when i put her in any gear (auto) sometimes it slides in gear with my foot on the brake very smooth and only slightly drops the revs as it used to do, other times its a tad violent and can sometimes drop the revs to 500rpm fo a second as it engages either forward or reverse drive, other times it drops the revs twice very quick as tho its a manual and im dipping the clutch twice and bringing it up to the bite point fast, (if that makes sence) it cant be the gearbox as thats my original box and it didnt do it with the second engine that only lasted 200 mile before pressuring up, its only since having the warrenty engine fitted by some one we all no and love, also would the 4th injector cause the same problem?? i have found a sensor that looks like a crank sensor on the bel housing near the starter, mine is the diesel auto

And Mr Wammers the fault comes up as intermitant when i plug it in, we use the auto diagnose kit (very dear 4 grand ish) at work. sooo im still a tad confused but dont want to wast money on the wrong sensor being replaced as ive spent a grand on the engine and new rear bumper allready so moneys tight for the next month, thank you both for the replys.

Mike v.t.s said:

Yes i understand that but Mr Datatec but would a faulty crank sensor give the problem of engine revs sometimes dropping harsh when i put her in any gear (auto) sometimes it slides in gear with my foot on the brake very smooth and only slightly drops the revs as it used to do, other times its a tad violent and can sometimes drop the revs to 500rpm fo a second as it engages either forward or reverse drive, other times it drops the revs twice very quick as tho its a manual and im dipping the clutch twice and bringing it up to the bite point fast, (if that makes sence) it cant be the gearbox as thats my original box and it didnt do it with the second engine that only lasted 200 mile before pressuring up, its only since having the warrenty engine fitted by some one we all no and love, also would the 4th injector cause the same problem?? i have found a sensor that looks like a crank sensor on the bel housing near the starter, mine is the diesel auto

And Mr Wammers the fault comes up as intermitant when i plug it in, we use the auto diagnose kit (very dear 4 grand ish) at work. sooo im still a tad confused but dont want to wast money on the wrong sensor being replaced as ive spent a grand on the engine and new rear bumper allready so moneys tight for the next month, thank you both for the replys.

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wammers said:

Throttling on the M51 is controlled by fuel quantity. Feedback from both these sensors is needed for correct operation. First of all check the wire connections to them are good, plug pins are clean and making good contact. With the faults it seems that the engine speed is reducing under load and not being picked up by the sensors. Any drop in speed from idle is supposed to be detected and fueling increased to return speed to preset. This is not happening. Crank sensor tells ECU engine speed number four injector tells ECU start of injection point. Fuel quantity is controlled by quantity solenoid in pump from signals recieved by ECU from throttle position sensor and engine speed sensors. That link is being broken, but unfortunatly i cannot definatly say by what.

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Thanks for the reply, sounds daft but you made it a tad clearer, been thinking it over that long i confused myself, had ANOTHER major set back this morning on way to work... just started engine and let it run for 2 mins then i set off, when i stopped at the lights there was a veery loud banging and bad vibration, sounded like the crank was tryin to escape so i put it on the ramps and found the three 13mm nuts that hold the torque convertor to the drive plate had ALL come loose, i unwound them by hand put a dab of thread lock on them and put um back in mega tight... hey presto smooth as silk (for a diesel) but now thats sorted i can try and solve the near engine stall-ing issue,

jamesmartin said:

in what way left home ,drive r but not d or?

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Mike v.t.s said:

i think its the spragg clutch thats gone, i have to put it in first then once its rolling i can select drive... what a bastard lol

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wammers said:

Sorry to say this but it sounds like you're spragged. Old northern word for fooked. Pardon the pun.

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and to make things worse i had to change the turbo the other day as that foooked up aswell, easey enuf tho... what the hell is next???? ive has 18 month trouble free or at least cost free motoring in my rangie ALL UNTIL i blew the engine now it seems all hell is breaking lose...

Mike v.t.s said:

and to make things worse i had to change the turbo the other day as that foooked up aswell, easey enuf tho... what the hell is next???? ive has 18 month trouble free or at least cost free motoring in my rangie ALL UNTIL i blew the engine now it seems all hell is breaking lose...

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DM68 said:

Sorry to hear about all the trouble you've had recently. Do you think that the PSI box might have been the route cause of your gearbox problem?

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To be honest no i dont think it was, i noticed when it come back from having the replacement engine second time that the box wasnt the same and had issues with going in drive or reverse with nearly stalling but i put it down to a sensor problem either number 4 injector or the crank sensor faulty, and considering the gearbox has allready done the 150,000 miles and the fact that i really punish it by doing serious off roading up in the lake district (and having a laff with mates locally) that it possibly was about time for it to fail, i have read the horror stories with the psi box and gearbox failings being blamed on it but i just think that at that milage (150,000 miles) its natural time is up, now i no some people may have done over 200,000 miles on the same box and some may well have done less befor gearbox failure but it could just be a fact of how often gearbox oil and filter is changed and what driving conditions the rangie is used in... WHAT is the average life of a gearbox?????