new air springs

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sarstad said:
wammers said:
Then you need to take a look inside it. Inspect piston cylinder, also valves. Set them up as i have described.[/quote

how ? take the compressor apart ??
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Refer to www.rangerover.net there is a full stage by stage description with photographs. Make sure you use the correct sized allen key when trying to remove crank from shaft. Be sure not to damage silicone gaskets.
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sarstad said:
wammers said:
that i can´t find .

but i take the compressor apart :)
Click to expand...

Ok take four 8mm spanner size bolts out and remove metal plate and cylinder head in the head you will see two valves will get to them later. Pull out cylinder and inspect for any scores/wear. Remove three 8mm bolts from end of compressor, remove metal plate with two rubber mounts on it. Inside you will see crank and conrod. On side of compressor you will see an allen screw. Remove this and set aside. Turn crank until centre of bob weight is inline with the hole you just created by removing allen screw. insert long series allen wrench into this hole and into hole in bob weight. I think from memory it is a 4mm allen wrench but make sure it is the correct size. Make sure it is properly engaged, put a tube on wrench and undo pinch bolt from crank. When this is slack no need to take it out you will be able to lever crank off shaft with a flat screwdriver keep turning it and lever a little at a time. Remove crank and conrod from opening. To replace piston seal cut old one off carefully with a stanley knife, with a small flat screwdriver gently lever seal retainer off top of piston try not to damage anything. New seal from Holland if that's what your getting is thinner than stock fitment, so with great care file and burr caused when seal retainer was pushed onto piston. This retainer because seal is thinner has to go on further than before so smooth off burrs that could prevent this. Fit new seal and refit ratainer. Make sure retainer is pushed down so that seal is hard trapped. Retainer should not come off but i like to put a couple of centre pops across joint to make sure it dose'nt. Re-assemble in reverse order. Cylinder is fitted by offering it at a 45 degree angle onto piston seal then turning to straighten up. I think i have described how to set valves earlier.
Click to expand...
 
wammers said:
sarstad said:
Ok take four 8mm spanner size bolts out and remove metal plate and cylinder head in the head you will see two valves will get to them later. Pull out cylinder and inspect for any scores/wear. Remove three 8mm bolts from end of compressor, remove metal plate with two rubber mounts on it. Inside you will see crank and conrod. On side of compressor you will see an allen screw. Remove this and set aside. Turn crank until centre of bob weight is inline with the hole you just created by removing allen screw. insert long series allen wrench into this hole and into hole in bob weight. I think from memory it is a 4mm allen wrench but make sure it is the correct size. Make sure it is properly engaged, put a tube on wrench and undo pinch bolt from crank. When this is slack no need to take it out you will be able to lever crank off shaft with a flat screwdriver keep turning it and lever a little at a time. Remove crank and conrod from opening. To replace piston seal cut old one off carefully with a stanley knife, with a small flat screwdriver gently lever seal retainer off top of piston try not to damage anything. New seal from Holland if that's what your getting is thinner than stock fitment, so with great care file and burr caused when seal retainer was pushed onto piston. This retainer because seal is thinner has to go on further than before so smooth off burrs that could prevent this. Fit new seal and refit ratainer. Make sure retainer is pushed down so that seal is hard trapped. Retainer should not come off but i like to put a couple of centre pops across joint to make sure it dose'nt. Re-assemble in reverse order. Cylinder is fitted by offering it at a 45 degree angle onto piston seal then turning to straighten up. I think i have described how to set valves earlier.
Click to expand...


great i will du that when i get the seal :)
i can´t find how to set the valve
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996TURBO said:
Why would you rebuild a compressor that isn't electrically good to run without bypass
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He says compressor runs fine. But it is not pumping air. I have already explained about the possibility of commutator,brush,bearing wear he has chosen his route. If the compressor runs at all the thermal cutout is working. This lad is Danish and is having enough difficulty following the procedure as it is, why complicate matters with un-needed checks?
 
wammers said:
He says compressor runs fine. But it is not pumping air. I have already explained about the possibility of commutator,brush,bearing wear he has chosen his route. If the compressor runs at all the thermal cutout is working. This lad is Danish and is having enough difficulty following the procedure as it is, why complicate matters with un-needed checks?
Click to expand...
Ok master so you've told everything, i give up:doh:
You should think further, this thread will be read by other lads and some may end rebuilding a compressor that will never run
 
Datatek said:
Wasted your cash unless you are a serious off roader, you need the longer shocks to go with them now:rolleyes:
Gen 2's are fine for normal use:D
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Datatek, Gen 3's are not only for serious offroaders.

They are harder on highway setting reducing body roll.
I have the EAS on manual setting and Highway height 90% of the time. Perfect for a P38 V8 with a heavy right feet:D
That mod has transformed by rig high speed road manners. Of course it won't be a formula one but it's not anymore the famous body roll of any land rover before L322 Range Rover.

Longer shocks are not mandatory but if you are serious about offroading, you'll go this way and longer sensor height, recalibration...I did.

I tested those with various shocks from OEM to Bilstein and Procomp shocks.
 
sarstad said:
wammers said:
great i will du that when i get the seal :)
i can´t find how to set the valve
Click to expand...

Ok, inlet valve. Make sure it is sat flush to head with no decernable gap under it. Hold it up to light. If there is a gap remove it and it's support vane. Clean any debris from head where valve seats. Make sure valve is flat. Refit it and put a little thread lock on screw. Exhaust valve. Remove it. Check condition of O ring it seats on for damage. If damaged replace stick in position with a very small amount of RTV silicone. When refitting exhaust valve make sure it sits flush on O ring. Refit with its support vane this supprot vane is there to stop valve from over flexing and not to hold it against O ring. So make sure it is not hard onto valve when fitted. Take a small piece of silicone pipe and put over inlet to exhaust valve you should be able yo blow easily through it but not suck back. Proving valve is seated on O ring. Re-assenble cylinder head to pump.

PS Don't forget thread lock on exhaust valve screw i just nearly did.:):):)
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
And totally pointless when the compressor runs.
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Unless he fixes his tank leak, he'll need to know how to do it because he'll shoot his rebuild compressor soon.

PS : sorry if i disturb you with my points of views but i do EAS rebuilds since years and i use some rebuild sequences like that.
I heard so many times customers calling me and tell me, i rebuilt my compressor, it works on the bench 12 v but not on the car.
 
Last edited:
996TURBO said:
Unless he fixes his tank leak, he'll need to know how to do it because he'll shoot his rebuild compressor soon.

PS : sorry if i disturb you with my points of views but i do EAS rebuilds since years and i use some rebuild sequences like that.
I heard so many times customers calling me and tell me, i rebuilt my compressor, it works on the bench 12 v but not on the car.
Click to expand...

I have already explained to the guy about that. If the commutator is on it's last legs or the brushes are knackered and the back bearing is about to break up i don't know. But he says his compressor runs fine apart from not producing air. HE has chosen his route, if the compressor works at all the thermal cutout must be ok. If it had failed and there was no circuit the pump would not run. You do not disturb me at all. But you maybe confusing the OP.
 
wammers said:
sarstad said:
Ok, inlet valve. Make sure it is sat flush to head with no decernable gap under it. Hold it up to light. If there is a gap remove it and it's support vane. Clean any debris from head where valve seats. Make sure valve is flat. Refit it and put a little thread lock on screw. Exhaust valve. Remove it. Check condition of O ring it seats on for damage. If damaged replace stick in position with a very small amount of RTV silicone. When refitting exhaust valve make sure it sits flush on O ring. Refit with its support vane this supprot vane is there to stop valve from over flexing and not to hold it against O ring. So make sure it is not hard onto valve when fitted. Take a small piece of silicone pipe and put over inlet to exhaust valve you should be able yo blow easily through it but not suck back. Proving valve is seated on O ring. Re-assenble cylinder head to pump.

PS Don't forget thread lock on exhaust valve screw i just nearly did.:):):)
Click to expand...


then i hope i get the seal soon so that i can get i all in working order again:)

tkanks for all the help to all of you :)
Click to expand...
 
Golan said:
Not sure if anyone's still out there as the subject has gone off at a bit of a tangent!
Well I've had my new Gen II air springs fitted only to find that my air pump has burned out :doh: repair kit ordered so fingers crossed that nothing else is buggered!!!
Click to expand...

Well I'm back on the road at long last...
Full set of Gen II's fitted and rebuild my air pump.
I did read all your advice and did as many cheques as I thought necessary and hey presto after what seemed like the longest 5 minutes ever while weighting for the tank to come up to pressure then she jumped into life :D
After the first drive it feels firmer with less roll than before and raises and lowers much quicker.
I know you were talking to the Danish chap but your advice came in very handy!
Thanks all...
 
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