P38A New AIR BAG PROCEDURE NEEDED

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Ruby Range

Ruby Range

Well-Known Member
Posts
338
Location
Sandwich Kent
Finally have a weekend off this weekend and so aim to finish off my coils back to air project. I understand that I can not drop the body on the new bags without air in and that I have got to reset the height settings. So the plan is to get the coils out and replace with new bags. after putting in the new bags before dropping the body I'm planning on putting in the blocks iv made to calculate the height settings. once done I should end up with the entry blocks left under the bump stops. is it feasible to then start the car up and get air in the system by setting it on the dash at normal height and then removing the blocks if and when it rises ??. Any help appreciated
 
Ruby Range said:
Finally have a weekend off this weekend and so aim to finish off my coils back to air project. I understand that I can not drop the body on the new bags without air in and that I have got to reset the height settings. So the plan is to get the coils out and replace with new bags. after putting in the new bags before dropping the body I'm planning on putting in the blocks iv made to calculate the height settings. once done I should end up with the entry blocks left under the bump stops. is it feasible to then start the car up and get air in the system by setting it on the dash at normal height and then removing the blocks if and when it rises ??. Any help appreciated
Click to expand...

is this any use to u ,

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/airspreplace.html
 
Ruby Range said:
Finally have a weekend off this weekend and so aim to finish off my coils back to air project. I understand that I can not drop the body on the new bags without air in and that I have got to reset the height settings. So the plan is to get the coils out and replace with new bags. after putting in the new bags before dropping the body I'm planning on putting in the blocks iv made to calculate the height settings. once done I should end up with the entry blocks left under the bump stops. is it feasible to then start the car up and get air in the system by setting it on the dash at normal height and then removing the blocks if and when it rises ??. Any help appreciated
Click to expand...

Should work. The reservoir tank may take a while to fill the first time. Run it 10 to 15 minutes with a door open.
 
There's a hell of a lesson to be learned, not only on airbags but many other topics as well. Ten years ago I changed all my bags together with discs callipers pads and shockers. Last year I towed a caravan on the bumps from Valencia to malaga and beyond. Inflated the whole shooting match with the bridge the relay trick. The point is, I got away with it through ignorance is bliss. I'm not getting away with it now. Punishment I guess. I'm sure you masked men feel like you're wasting your breath at times, but you're not. This forum has changed beyond recognition. Wammers for prime minister and grrrrrr for a knighthood in the house of lords.
 
supapete said:
There's a hell of a lesson to be learned, not only on airbags but many other topics as well. Ten years ago I changed all my bags together with discs callipers pads and shockers. Last year I towed a caravan on the bumps from Valencia to malaga and beyond. Inflated the whole shooting match with the bridge the relay trick. The point is, I got away with it through ignorance is bliss. I'm not getting away with it now. Punishment I guess. I'm sure you masked men feel like you're wasting your breath at times, but you're not. This forum has changed beyond recognition. Wammers for prime minister and grrrrrr for a knighthood in the house of lords.
Click to expand...

Didn't sirgrrr use to be a race horse or is it a different spelling?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Should be OK if it is still on the blocks though, shouldn't it? it won't move until the bag inflates.
Click to expand...

Well i suppose so, trick is to only change one set at a time. Rears then fronts. Makes life easier. I use a jack and stands. Air pressure in the bags is essential before the chassis is lowered, it helps them to roll over themselves. Otherwise they can stick, not roll, and buckle. Which believe it or not can cause them to flip off their seals. Air pressure and vehicle weight force the seals against their seats. Try an experiment with a removed bag. Put a little air in it and watch one of the end caps disappear over the next door fence. It does not take much. ;);)
 
And if anyone wants to know why you changes the rears first then the fronts. It is because when the EAS rises it always lifts the rear first. So if you are deft at opening doors you can inflate the rear to take all your stands out without inflating the fronts. Then you can use them at the front.
 
wammers said:
Body should NOT be lowered until there is pressure in the bags. How many times does this need saying?
Click to expand...
We'll,201times actually. I've just replaced my wrecked rear bags. Wrecked at my own hands. One of them twice. The care I took on this occasion anyone would be forgiven for thinking I was repairing a watch. Up we went in stages keeping the bags straight and unextended. Running round like a flea juggling jacks and stands. Lovely. Still couldn't stop the pump running. The nearside front sensor readout was always low. Damn me! Front nearside bag bubbling like a West ham singsong. Listen up everyone, masked men excluded, this job is a doddle. So much so it's easy, as I have done, to get blaze. Carelessness has cost me dearly. Not to mention incurring matrons wrath....... God, I hate those wires things on my head.
 
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