TheCornishman
Active Member
- Posts
- 73
- Location
- Cornwall
Hi all, recently bought a 110 200tdi (1st Landy) & I am really pleased.
1992 in green with roof rack, ladder, rear wheel carrier and a 2” lift
I removed the rear seats and have modified my Dog box (Of cave like proportions) to fit.
I have freed the heater control mechanisms & now have hot & cold air on demand. I have also used some lightweight rubber horse matting that was laying around to line the rear butt, wheel arches & footwells. Really pleased with these as they are Durable, light, removable & Jet washable.
So the big Q?
I bought the vehicle at a good price, knowing the coolant was contaminated and factoring in the possibility of head work. The guy I bought it from claimed it had come from a leak between the rad & oil cooler & that the Faulty parts were replaced. He said he’d tried to flush the system but it needed another go to clear the oil out.
The truck runs well I think?....by that I mean I was previously driving a 190hp Navara with all the mod cons.
The Defender clearly has less poke & is heavier but I think it’s going well enough. Doesn’t have the all through the range pull of the Navara but it’s 25years older in design. I do find if you let the revs fall off the Turbo it’s a bit of a slog or a downshift. All this being fettling yet to be explored I suspect.
No heavy smoke, just a puff on start up. Starts almost instantaneously, no cranking over and over.
The oil is clean, in fact recently changed according to Service History and looks good. No change in levels over the 1st 70miles
Temperature gets upto around 1/2 mast on the gauge and sits there. Heaters all work as expected.
The water is clearly contaminated. Doesn’t appear to be rising or falling but it’s quite hard to tell as the header is made out of black plastic...(stupid idea & likely to be swapped out)
So is the oil cooler/radiator fault a known problem?...how can I be sure this was the case and what’s best to flush the coolant system?
Thanks all....
1992 in green with roof rack, ladder, rear wheel carrier and a 2” lift
I removed the rear seats and have modified my Dog box (Of cave like proportions) to fit.
I have freed the heater control mechanisms & now have hot & cold air on demand. I have also used some lightweight rubber horse matting that was laying around to line the rear butt, wheel arches & footwells. Really pleased with these as they are Durable, light, removable & Jet washable.
So the big Q?
I bought the vehicle at a good price, knowing the coolant was contaminated and factoring in the possibility of head work. The guy I bought it from claimed it had come from a leak between the rad & oil cooler & that the Faulty parts were replaced. He said he’d tried to flush the system but it needed another go to clear the oil out.
The truck runs well I think?....by that I mean I was previously driving a 190hp Navara with all the mod cons.
The Defender clearly has less poke & is heavier but I think it’s going well enough. Doesn’t have the all through the range pull of the Navara but it’s 25years older in design. I do find if you let the revs fall off the Turbo it’s a bit of a slog or a downshift. All this being fettling yet to be explored I suspect.
No heavy smoke, just a puff on start up. Starts almost instantaneously, no cranking over and over.
The oil is clean, in fact recently changed according to Service History and looks good. No change in levels over the 1st 70miles
Temperature gets upto around 1/2 mast on the gauge and sits there. Heaters all work as expected.
The water is clearly contaminated. Doesn’t appear to be rising or falling but it’s quite hard to tell as the header is made out of black plastic...(stupid idea & likely to be swapped out)
So is the oil cooler/radiator fault a known problem?...how can I be sure this was the case and what’s best to flush the coolant system?
Thanks all....
