All was well in the world, and my freelander was running great after a few upgrades. EGR Bypass kit, silicon hoses and a new air filter from K&N. Until yesterday evening. I was driving along on a straight road when i suddenly felt the acceleration pretty much disappearing. So i turned off the road and stopped and let it idle, and it sounded just fine. went outside to check the engine and everything seemed fine. No smoke, no nothing. Kept driving and it was reaaaaally struggling to maintain speed. Had to be driving in first gear with full throttle to make a small hill. 0-40km/h took me about 10 sec. So, withouth a doubt, something is broke. I went outside today to check everything in the engine bay. Hoses were fine, all the wires looked good, nothing out of place really. Theres no coughing, bad noises or smoke. The engine wont rev above 2800 rpm. Doesnt matter if its cold/warm. This is the first problem ive had with this car that i cant figure out where to start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated since i cant drive this car right now!
Need help, my engine went on vacation!
- Thread starter joelsbg
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GrumpyGel
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Plenty of threads on here about the TD4 doing this sort of thing. Have a search.
Usually fuel pump/filter or sensors I fink.
Usually fuel pump/filter or sensors I fink.
GrumpyGel
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Up until yesterday you could have solved it reasonably cheaply. But Happyhippo bought Rimmer's last L Series on special.
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
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Sounds like yet another (3rd post like this this week) low pressure fuel pump is starting to bite the dust.
:search:
I have but cant find any posts thats describing exactly this problem. If its the fuel pump im guessing the car wouldnt start at all? Could be a sensor, but i think something happened when i did the egr bypass recently... are there any sensors inside the inlet manifold that i could have messed up?
know any easy way to test if this is the case?
yellow90
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the vehicle will still start with the pump on its way out , moest makes and models when the fuel pump goes they will start but run like ****e
defenders ( any diesel engine ) for example symptoms are slow starting and/or sluggishness
teddywood1
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and it can do the same thing with your diesel filter if that is nearly blocked.
yellow90
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true , I forgot about that
Right, im thinking it could be the fuel filter but after looking on various sites im unsure which filter i should buy. Anyone know the part number? I just realised that the fault occured 30 min after filling up the tank and i have no idea how long the filter has been in there as i bought the car this winter. Took it for a spin now for around 20 min. Engine sounds fine but ťheres a significant loss of power still, but its constant, not intermittant. Kinda like its strangled or limited. No warning lights either. And theres no sound of the pump priming when turning the key to step 1, unless i got super silent one 
GrumpyGel
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Seriously, this sounds the same as loads of threads on here.
Changing the filter should be considered a maintenance item - so no brainer.
Changing the pump is a 'regular' occurrence, they're not that expensive, so if you change it and its not that its not completely wasted money cos it will be needed some time.
Plugging a reader in to see if there's any codes is probably worth doing - as is searching on LZ for similar symptoms or 'limp home'. Also well worth searching on here to download the 'RAVE' documentation for the TD4 - it will give you all the part numbers.
Changing the filter should be considered a maintenance item - so no brainer.
Changing the pump is a 'regular' occurrence, they're not that expensive, so if you change it and its not that its not completely wasted money cos it will be needed some time.
Plugging a reader in to see if there's any codes is probably worth doing - as is searching on LZ for similar symptoms or 'limp home'. Also well worth searching on here to download the 'RAVE' documentation for the TD4 - it will give you all the part numbers.
as the other guys suggested sounds like a failing fuel pump filter
when i replaced my filter i actually replaced the pump at the same time due to it location and thought if i didnt would just be my luck of it failing
personally i bought all oem bits
its located behind ur right rear drivers side inner wheel arch,remove the wheel, remove the tray with the pump and filter , after undoing the bolts allow the tray to come down a bit and remove the wires and fuel pipes, cover the fuel pipes with a small plastic bag to protect and ingress of dirt etc .
the pump and filter are held tightly into the tray, use a small block of wood or handle of a hammer to knock them out
easier to take a picture so u know how to attatch the fuel lines and wires back up
hope that helps abit and u get it sorted out
if u do a search theres some pics of the fuel tray
when i replaced my filter i actually replaced the pump at the same time due to it location and thought if i didnt would just be my luck of it failing
personally i bought all oem bits
its located behind ur right rear drivers side inner wheel arch,remove the wheel, remove the tray with the pump and filter , after undoing the bolts allow the tray to come down a bit and remove the wires and fuel pipes, cover the fuel pipes with a small plastic bag to protect and ingress of dirt etc .
the pump and filter are held tightly into the tray, use a small block of wood or handle of a hammer to knock them out
easier to take a picture so u know how to attatch the fuel lines and wires back up
hope that helps abit and u get it sorted out
if u do a search theres some pics of the fuel tray
thanks for all the good help guys! i did some more investigating today before ordering any parts.. i think ive narrowed it down to, as you said, filter or pump so i think im gonna change both of them asap. been searching the engine bay for a quick fix but all seems fine. took of the wheel and the inner wing to have a look at the pump. i found 2 loose connectors hanging around. im guessing the small one is the earth/ground cable ive read about but i have no idea what the other ones for since the pump is already connected?
the pump did run for about 40 secs when turning the key, but it was really quiet. and the connector to the pump was fixed with a cable strip, guessing thats not original
the pump did run for about 40 secs when turning the key, but it was really quiet. and the connector to the pump was fixed with a cable strip, guessing thats not original
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Dj4man
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The single black wire should be attached to the fuel filter, its an earth.
The larger connector block is for fuel filters fitted with heaters.
The larger connector block is for fuel filters fitted with heaters.
right, thanks for the info! Took it for Another spin today and it surged in to life a brief moment so kept on Driving and it started feeling normal on and off. I could get over 3000 rpm now and it had more acceleration. I did notice that the under arch pump sounded louder when the car was working, and almost quiet when it was really slow. This should be a Sign of a bad pump/filter?
Epicuser
Ex Freelander Owner
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