Need Brake advise.

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Locky1978

Locky1978

Active Member
Posts
583
Location
Farnham, Surrey
Ok I need some advise on my brakes. I rebuilt my landy last summer. I replaced all my brake lines. Shoes and wheel cylinders. The only thing I didn't touch was the master cylinder.
It's an 88" with standard swb fronts and a salisbury rear axle with 11" drums.
The problem I'm having is if I need to do an emergency stop I can push the pedal to the floorboard and hold it there and it will stop when It wants to. If I push the pedal release and push again I can almost lock the wheels.
I've had all the drums off and re-profiled the snail cams. Adjusted them all even to the point of the brakes dragging slightly.
I've bled the system with my one man bleeding kit twice and my vacuum bleeder twice. I'm sure it has no air in it.
So what could it be. I was about to replace the master cylinder as it's the only item didn't change. I noticed it was hard to get fluid through with my vacuum kit and does make a weird popping noise when I press the pedal.
If I replace it should I go for a lwb master cylinder? am I right in thinking this moves more fluid? I was wondering if my lwb rears are using up too much pedal travel.
Oh and it's a single line system.
Sorry for the long post. I've exhausted my options/ experience with this.
 
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is there a blackish deposit in bottom of res and if someone pumps pedal does it splash back in reservoir ,they are both signs new master cylinder is required
 
Well I'm taking a good look at mine cause I managed to shunt someone up the rear when they decided to do an emergency stop in front of me, to let someone round a parked car traveling in the opposite direction. No damage done to either party though. More of a tap than a shunt I guess.
 
Locky1978 said:
Ok I need some advise on my brakes. I rebuilt my landy last summer. I replaced all my brake lines. Shoes and wheel cylinders. The only thing I didn't touch was the master cylinder.
It's an 88" with standard swb fronts and a salisbury rear axle with 11" drums.
The problem I'm having is if I need to do an emergency stop I can push the pedal to the floorboard and hold it there and it will stop when It wants to. If I push the pedal release and push again I can almost lock the wheels.
I've had all the drums off and re-profiled the snail cams. Adjusted them all even to the point of the brakes dragging slightly.
I've bled the system with my one man bleeding kit twice and my vacuum bleeder twice. I'm sure it has no air in it.
So what could it be. I was about to replace the master cylinder as it's the only item didn't change. I noticed it was hard to get fluid through with my vacuum kit and does make a weird popping noise when I press the pedal.
If I replace it should I go for a lwb master cylinder? am I right in thinking this moves more fluid? I was wondering if my lwb rears are using up too much pedal travel.
Oh and it's a single line system.
Sorry for the long post. I've exhausted my options/ experience with this.
Click to expand...
thats your problem mate you need a lwb master cylinder the lwb double brake cyliders need a lot more volume of fluid.
years ago i fitted a set of front lwb drums on my 88" after i fitted a v8 and spent ages trying to get preassure then a guy i know said it was the master cylinder needed changing. bloody thing would stand on the front wheels if you hit the anchors too hard until the new lining bed in :D
 
Hmm I might give that a try then. I'm kicking myself a bit for not changing it in the first place. It looked ok but then I didn't know about the differences with swb and lwb.
 
did it work okay before ,after 1980 both 88 and 109 use same master cylinder,as are dual systems if yours is earlier fit 109 as mr buckshot said depends whats fited already
 
Locky1978 said:
Hmm I might give that a try then. I'm kicking myself a bit for not changing it in the first place. It looked ok but then I didn't know about the differences with swb and lwb.
Click to expand...

me neither bud spent a week of evenings with a big power bleeder and a gallon a fluid , in my defence the guy at my indipendant lr garage said i did'nt need to replace the swb one :mad: not sure about the series 3 but my 2a had to get a differant larger bore pipe between the reservoir and master cyldr but expect you have a servo (mine i fitted a rover 2000 remote servo as 2a dont have um :D)
 
Locky1978 said:
Just having a look at these master cylinders. What does 'cv type' mean?
Click to expand...

There are two types of master cylinders fitted to single circuit series the older CB (Compression Barrel) and the later CV (er... dunno) type. My CB failed and a genuine replacement would have been £450. LRSeries now sell the genuine CB one for over £600 :eek:.

I changed my CB for a CV (a more reasonable £35) - so needed to do some re-plumbing. The inlet and outlet pipes are the opposite way round and the fittings are a different thread. The CB one is easy to spots has a massive nut on the back.
 
Ah ok, thanks guys I feel a bit more clued up on this now. I don't have a servo on mine. I'm pretty sure I have the standard swb master cylinder fitted. I've just ordered up a 109 version. Hopefully it's here for Saturday. I'll get it fitted and update.
Buckshot I've always wondered about fitting a remote servo. Did it make a worthwhile difference?
 
Locky1978 said:
Ah ok, thanks guys I feel a bit more clued up on this now. I don't have a servo on mine. I'm pretty sure I have the standard swb master cylinder fitted. I've just ordered up a 109 version. Hopefully it's here for Saturday. I'll get it fitted and update.
Buckshot I've always wondered about fitting a remote servo. Did it make a worthwhile difference?
Click to expand...

****in right ! but i would suggest you get some 109 front drums first ;), with the 88" fronts its a roulette as to which way it'll pull when you hit the middle peddle :D.
just a little demo for you; came around a long sweeping bend 1 day doing about 70 to find some numpty overtaking someone coming the other way :eek: hit the brakes and nearly hit the guy being overtaken :D.
the drums are not perfectly central on the hubs so 1 will bit before the other with the single cyliders , soon as i got the 109's sorted though would stop ni-on as well as a fender
 
Has anyone out there with any info on diskbrake conversions for series vehicles. I know there are kits on the market but all savage money!
 
The CV stands for centre valve these are much better than the CB type the piston in the CV type returns much faster than the CB so it is easier to bleed the brakes. Defo put some twin leading shoe 11" front brakes on to match the rears. Latter series 3's had 11" on the front with the SWB front's moved to the rear.
 
if you have 11 inch rears you should defo change the 10 inch fronts as for legal reasons the fronts should lock up first and be more powerfull than the rears, would be an mot fail as is..
 
Okey dokey. I'll start looking for some 11" fronts then. I was wondering how these were balanced as there is no proportioning valve.
I got my Master cylinder today. It's HUGE compared to the one fitted. 1" bore. I think the one I have fitted now is 3/4"
 
Did you change the shuttle valve when you rebuilt as this can sometimes stick or seize up causing probs.
 
Ok next problem. I've got my 109 master cylinder. Fitted it. Went to connect up the brake line and realised it's a larger thread than the fitting currently on the brake line.
I think my fitting is 7/16"
Can I get the larger fitting with a small bore hole for the pipe? if that makes sense
 
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