P38A Near bakes binding for no obvious reason

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Montyjohn

Montyjohn

Well-Known Member
Posts
241
Location
UK
So when I got home last night I was overtaken by a cloud of smoke coming from my offside rear wheel.
The brakes and whole alloy were very hot, ticking away, and it looked like it wanted to catch fire. Lots of smoke.

I've taken a look today and it's magically freed itself off.

I removed the slider pins. They were fine, gave them a clean and re-grease.
I drew the piston out as far as I dare and cleaned any resin type crap off it. Piston was nice and shiny with no rust. Pushed in and out a couple of times. All seems good.
Whilst at it I cleaned up all the hangar surfaces with a light file. The pads weren't stuck when removed so assume wasn't the issue.
Flexi hose looks to be in good nick on the outside. No idea on the inside.

I decided to bleed some fluid through as I figured the old fluid had been cooked to death.

It seems to be working ok now (not driven yet) but I didn't really fix anything.

Any ideas what I might be missing?
 
Montyjohn said:
So when I got home last night I was overtaken by a cloud of smoke coming from my offside rear wheel.
The brakes and whole alloy were very hot, ticking away, and it looked like it wanted to catch fire. Lots of smoke.

I've taken a look today and it's magically freed itself off.

I removed the slider pins. They were fine, gave them a clean and re-grease.
I drew the piston out as far as I dare and cleaned any resin type crap off it. Piston was nice and shiny with no rust. Pushed in and out a couple of times. All seems good.
Whilst at it I cleaned up all the hangar surfaces with a light file. The pads weren't stuck when removed so assume wasn't the issue.
Flexi hose looks to be in good nick on the outside. No idea on the inside.

I decided to bleed some fluid through as I figured the old fluid had been cooked to death.

It seems to be working ok now (not driven yet) but I didn't really fix anything.

Any ideas what I might be missing?
Click to expand...
Delamination of the flexi pipe interior stopping the fluid returning is a possibility.
 
Datatek said:
Delamination of the flexi pipe interior stopping the fluid returning is a possibility.
Click to expand...

I wondered this, but couldn't decide if it is one of those things that happened to somebody once and now it gets blamed for each unexplained occurrence of binding brakes, or is it actually a common thing to happen?
 
Montyjohn said:
I wondered this, but couldn't decide if it is one of those things that happened to somebody once and now it gets blamed for each unexplained occurrence of binding brakes, or is it actually a common thing to happen?
Click to expand...

Don't know about P38's per se but delaminated flexi's are certainly a thing - and not uncommon.
:)
 
Montyjohn said:
I wondered this, but couldn't decide if it is one of those things that happened to somebody once and now it gets blamed for each unexplained occurrence of binding brakes, or is it actually a common thing to happen?
Click to expand...

More common where people clamp the flexi - which I never do.

I think you're right in suspecting the caliper piston or slider pins first.

I put stainless steel braided flexis on mine but on reflection I should have stuck with the rubber ones. They're way more resilient to knocks when off road.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I put stainless steel braided flexis on mine but on reflection I should have stuck with the rubber ones. They're way more resilient to knocks when off road.
Click to expand...

Good to know.
I was looking in Rimmer Bros as there's a massive price difference between genuine and aftermarket hoses:

After market: £12 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P)
Genuine: (125 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4703)

or OEM (never really know the difference between OEM and Aftermarket)
£20 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P1)

I don't want replacements to fail either, but are the genuine ones worth that premium?
 
Montyjohn said:
Good to know.
I was looking in Rimmer Bros as there's a massive price difference between genuine and aftermarket hoses:

After market: £12 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P)
Genuine: (125 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4703)

or OEM (never really know the difference between OEM and Aftermarket)
£20 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P1)

I don't want replacements to fail either, but are the genuine ones worth that premium?
Click to expand...
Genuine ones are not worth the premium, you are just paying for the name. OEM or aftermarket are usually just fine and often the same part without the brand name.
 
Montyjohn said:
Good to know.
I was looking in Rimmer Bros as there's a massive price difference between genuine and aftermarket hoses:

After market: £12 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P)
Genuine: (125 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4703)

or OEM (never really know the difference between OEM and Aftermarket)
£20 (https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ANR4704P1)

I don't want replacements to fail either, but are the genuine ones worth that premium?
Click to expand...

OEM is supposed to be original equipment manufacturer (so should be same part as Land Rover but may be missing the LR branding) and aftermarket is a pattern part made by another company and can be a bit of a minefield quality wise. The problem is that a lot of OEM is actually orginal equipment manufacturer's specification rather than specifically the original equipment manufacturer which is why sites like this one are so good because someone will almost certainly know who made the originals. E.g. the original calipers were Lucas and you can usually get decent refurbed ones from Eurocarparts at a decent price.

With brakes I'd go OEM rather than aftermarket. After all, it isn't much of an issue if it doesn't go but it may well be if it cannot stop.
 
If you are going to replace you brake flexis what year is your P38? as there is 2 different types , I found out the hard way previously by buying some and then not fitting
 
MY 2000.
I had no idea there was any difference.
Not ordered anything yet so it's not too late.
 
Anr4704 is the part number you need

That should be the one you need then for Rh rear the early ones come down to the axle differently, just double check that it looks right first
 
On the later brake set up there are six flexies two front and four rear, on the rear there are the ones that go to the caliper and 2 others up by the chassis.
 
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