Nanocom fault code 55

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Ahh that explains that fault code then. The clock panel is still not fitted as I dismantled whole dash. I have only reconnected the hevac ecu controls so I can check the blend motors before putting dash back together.
 
The way I see it from my diagnosis so far is it must be a hevac ecu fault.
When I switch ignition on the top distribution servo cycles. And flaps open and close so the motor works.
When I connect nanocom I can calibrate motors well the side 2 anyway.
I can also force the RH and Lh motors individually to any setting so they work.
The only fault is as follows:-
When I try and force the distribution motor the output will adjust on nanocom to any set value put in. However the input figure shows 81% and remains at that figure always.
I'm assuming that it can only be getting this message from the hevac ecu. So am assuming that there is the part that needs replacing.

ANY COMMENTS ON THIS DIAGNOSIS VERY WELCOME
 
The way I see it from my diagnosis so far is it must be a hevac ecu fault.
When I switch ignition on the top distribution servo cycles. And flaps open and close so the motor works.
When I connect nanocom I can calibrate motors well the side 2 anyway.
I can also force the RH and Lh motors individually to any setting so they work.
The only fault is as follows:-
When I try and force the distribution motor the output will adjust on nanocom to any set value put in. However the input figure shows 81% and remains at that figure always.
I'm assuming that it can only be getting this message from the hevac ecu. So am assuming that there is the part that needs replacing.

ANY COMMENTS ON THIS DIAGNOSIS VERY WELCOME

Questions. Did you try to calibrate the blend motors in particular the distribution one with motors NOT in place on heater. Did you remove quadrant and replace it? Did you check that dots line up as outlined earlier. It is at 81% because the motor is stalled at that figure.
 
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I removed 3 blend motors by undoing 6 screws replaced with new blend motors then rebuilt dash and tested with nanocom and tried recalibration. Then realising no joy disconnected battery removed dash undid distribution motor and checked flaps were free moving by hand they were so replaced blend motor. Reattached hevac controls connected battery plugged in nanocom cycled ignition to position 2 watched distribution flaps cycle close then open. Then tried calibration from nanocom.
That's all I have done. If anyone has been here before then that I do not know
 
I removed 3 blend motors by undoing 6 screws replaced with new blend motors then rebuilt dash and tested with nanocom and tried recalibration. Then realising no joy disconnected battery removed dash undid distribution motor and checked flaps were free moving by hand they were so replaced blend motor. Reattached hevac controls connected battery plugged in nanocom cycled ignition to position 2 watched distribution flaps cycle close then open. Then tried calibration from nanocom.
That's all I have done. If anyone has been here before then that I do not know

If it is full and free as you say, dot to dot yet motor is stalling at 81% then it is either not as full and free as you think it is, or someone has had the quadrant out and reassembled it wrongly. There has to be something fairly tight to stall a motor they really do take some stopping. What were the faults before you changed the blend motors?
 
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With quadrant turned fully anticlockwise the dot on the pulley towards front of car or L/H as you look at side of unit the dots match. But also in that position the dot on the top or RH pulley also matches up at this point the top flaps are fully closed the ones connected to top cog is this right the flaps that are connected to swinging arm are pointing at floor is this right with all the dots
 
Have looked on my version of rave cannot find any detail as to how you dismantle quadrant and rebuild etc ???

It's not in RAVE. As far as i recall when the quadrant is at it's full travel left, the dots on the rearmost gear L/H looking at side of heater and the dots on the front gear R/H looking from side of heater must line up. Quadrant MUST be easy to turn full and free in BOTH directions. If you can get at it, when you turn ignition on, watch the movement and gently use a screwdriver to try and assist movement past the stall. If you can do this the flaps are not as full and free as you think.
 
Ok. Got a local breaker who has agreed to let me have a hevac control unit on sale or return plug it in and see if any different

Ok see what you get. The Hevac can only react to signals from the pot in the motor as it drives it. But stranger things have happened. Try it. Are the motors new units?
 
So after all this buggering about you now come up with the fact they are second hand motors. Were they zeroed when you got them? It maybe that someone has stripped them to zero them and reassembled them incorrectly and the pot is either duff or off set. It only has limited travel in both directions it is not a 360 degree pot.
 
So after all this buggering about you now come up with the fact they are second hand motors. Were they zeroed when you got them? It maybe that someone has stripped them to zero them and reassembled them incorrectly and the pot is either duff or off set. It only has limited travel in both directions it is not a 360 degree pot.
I read it that he put his original HEVAC back as the replacment made no difference Tony, not that the motors were secondhand:confused:
 
I read it that he put his original HEVAC back as the replacment made no difference Tony, not that the motors were secondhand:confused:

"I put my original set back as the set i bought made no difference" says blend motors to me Keith. I have been working on the assumption that it was a set of NEW motors he fitted. If they are second had it's an whole new ball game, there could be several other reasons for his trouble. If proper information is not given out how the bloody hell are you supposed to give solid advice. :mad:
 
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