Nanocom evo

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cj01

Member
Posts
81
Location
north lanarkshire
Hi ladies and gents,Ive managed to purchase a 2nd hand Nanocom and purchased the p38 diesel unlock codes.Where do I start?im at a loss with electronics Advice greatly appreciated/ My Rangie is off the road as its become a night mare and is dangerous to drive in my honest opinion.Problem is the injector light on the dash flickers during gear changes and can stall in the mornings.next problem on top of the first is the rev counter takes on a life of its own intermittently jumping all over the place bouncing from zero to 3000 rpm when it goes to zero the revs stay high not a good thing when approaching junctions/roundabouts.I had the Alternator refurbished and a new crank sensor after reading another members posts still all the same symptoms persist.Could the refurbed alternator be bad could the crank sensor also be bad could the 4th injector be faulty?all help will be appreciated miss driving my p38 its a dse 160.000miles
thanks
chris
 
hi Dan checked the voltage and its 13.45 without ancillaries and with everything turned on at 2000rpm it drops to12.58 you may have something.Is there a positive test to condem the fip?
cheers chris
 
As Wammers would say the light flickering on when changing gear is a sign of impending doom,
its the fuel quantity servo going out of expected range because of wear in the seating, and not a diy repair, calls for specialist test equipment and skills.
 
I am not up with nanocom, but I believe you can use it to up the idle speed to help with the stalling but its not a cure at 160k the pump is well past its best
There are other members who are more clued up with using one @Grrrrrr has more hands on with nanocom and pumps than me as he replaced his a while back, and @wammers is the top guru his word is gospel .
 
cj01 said:
Thanks orange beam.Do you have a Nanocom?
Click to expand...
I do Chris. What I don't have, unfortunately, is any knowledge of diesels beyond the theoretical.
Your charging circuit looks a bit flaky though. Do the tests in this sheet to find out where your problem lies

5PTzhbU.jpg
 
brianp38dse said:
I am not up with nanocom, but I believe you can use it to up the idle speed to help with the stalling but its not a cure at 160k the pump is well past its best
There are other members who are more clued up with using one @Grrrrrr has more hands on with nanocom and pumps than me as he replaced his a while back, and @wammers is the top guru his word is gospel .
Click to expand...

I've bodged my way through. Wammers and N20 know the diesels best.

Nanocom. Read the fault codes is the first port of call. You need the EDC modules. On high rollers the control collar tends to move out of range and stall. Usually this is chain stretch but I believe a weak lift pump and a tired FIP exacerbates the issue.

You can record a live trace of the readings with a memory card in the Nanocom. There is a fuelling module for the diesel so I'd start with that but do all of them. Engine has to be warm and idling.

[EDIT]. Just gone back and reread your original post. Rev counter all over the place isn't chain stretch or pump. I'd have to read RAVE to see where the rev counter gets its readings from but that would be my start point.
 
Hi Grrrrrr thanks for the input.When the rev counter is bouncing all over the place what actually happens is the rev counter needle falls to zero. engine then revs high 2000 to 3000 rpm the crazy part is when the rev counter comes back into play everything is fine then when the rev counter drops to zero the kangarooing starts all in time with the rev counter.One time the rev counter didn't come back and the engine had the high idle also I get alternator fault flashing up when the rev counter is bouncing.
thanks
chris
 
cj01 said:
Hi Grrrrrr thanks for the input.When the rev counter is bouncing all over the place what actually happens is the rev counter needle falls to zero. engine then revs high 2000 to 3000 rpm the crazy part is when the rev counter comes back into play everything is fine then when the rev counter drops to zero the kangarooing starts all in time with the rev counter.One time the rev counter didn't come back and the engine had the high idle also I get alternator fault flashing up when the rev counter is bouncing.
thanks
chris
Click to expand...

CPS fault. Check wiring to it. If you change CPS DO NOT remove bracket it sits on. ONLY remove the CPS from the bracket. If you remove the bracket you need a special tool to reset it.
 
Hi Gents/wammers.i have done some battery tests and this has been the outcome.
1 engine off all ancillaries on volts across batt is 11.7 v and dropping.
2 engine at idle no ans on 13.8 v across batt.
3 engine at 2000 rpm ancillaries on 13.3v across battery
4 engine at 2000 rpm ancillaries off 13.3v across battery
more testing to come.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Looked at cps wiring tried moving it around no change while engine running so felt brave enough to drive the bugger 10 mins later back in the drive after running great popped the bonnet having a look at the cps wiring again no change in engine rpm then boom( nearly pooped my pants) it shot up 3000rpm I'm guessing, no rev counter noticed no 4 injector is wet need further investigating.Could the leak off pipe on no 4 cause problems with the needle sensor?

Connected Nanocom not got a bloody clue what to do but tried my best.
EDC looked at faults
Control unit internal fault
Type: invalid fault,logged,intermittent
rpm 33
water temp 71
occurrence 15

Boost pressure invalid value
type:invalid fault,major fault,logged
rpm 36
inj flow 0
occurrence 11

Engine immobiliser link fault
type too high,too low high circuit
rpm 33
water temp 210
occurance 10

road speed sensor out of expected range
type:invalid fault,logged,current
rpm 33
water temp 93
occurrence 10

fuel flow value out of range
type: invalid fault major fault log
rpm 52
water temp 110
occurrence 15

Boost pressure invalid value
type:inalid fault major fault log
rpm 32
inj flow 0
occurrence 11

Needle lift sensor invalid value
type:invalid fault major fault log
rpm 73
water temp 86
occurrence 1

Have no clue what any of this means and wont touch any other buttons on nanocom as craping it incase I bugger it up.Any help is appreciated.
thanks
chris
 
cj01 said:
Hi Gents/wammers.i have done some battery tests and this has been the outcome.
1 engine off all ancillaries on volts across batt is 11.7 v and dropping.
2 engine at idle no ans on 13.8 v across batt.
3 engine at 2000 rpm ancillaries on 13.3v across battery
4 engine at 2000 rpm ancillaries off 13.3v across battery
more testing to come.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Click to expand...
As far as the electrical tests go (even though you haven't had a chance to complete yet)
Your battery may be knackered- needs a good charge then test again
You're dropping 0.5v somewhere in your main cables/ earths/ alternator under load. This is way too high and you need to do the voltage drop tests etc from Test 5 to narrow it down.
 
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