My Series 2a Restoration (Attempt!)

johnny curt 1 · Jan 29, 2011

instantsquid said:
Yep - I'd second RR's comments. No point in getting this far and not making sure any welding is good. Won't take long to check it's a decent weld under there (although it's certainly not the prettiest!)

Loving the pictures though - hopefully we'll be able to keep each other motivated as I've started a restoration of a 1969 S2A (there's a thread on here somewhere).

ill back yers up on that as it looks to me like pigeon shyte id deffo grind it down n check that weld and anything else that looks like that the effort that goes in now will save yer doing it all again in a couple of years time

and keep it up yer playing a blinder wiff it so far

nrgserv · Jan 29, 2011

signing up to keep up.

what is that thing bolted to the bulkhead, next to the coil?
and the oil cooler looks aftermarket.
will post more later, keep up the good work!

Tom87 · Jan 29, 2011

Tom87 · Jan 29, 2011

johnny curt 1 · Jan 29, 2011

like the birds nest wiring there tom i dunno what the fook the wiring on this one im gerrin is gonna look like

dirtyrhino · Jan 29, 2011

Doing well fella, keep it up !

Ah, you gotta love halfords cable and the ol splice crimps from the "wot-nots" racking behind the Boy-racer aisle

That'll be fun to track back if it ever goes wrong

If it makes ya feel better, BTW, POR covers pretty evenly, even with the most slap-dash of applications - as a guide, I used 2ltrs on my Buick chassis, and that was sprayed on, in damp, coldish conditions, so appx 1 1/2ltrs should do a std 88" comfortably with a brush

A good way to test those welded in panels is to give them a good couple of ****s with a lump hammer. If they give in and the weld splits - re-weld them

pat murphy · Jan 30, 2011

have fun i did worth it in the end

Tom87 · Feb 6, 2011

crashbox · Feb 6, 2011

Here is a trick to establishing the age of a Series landy. Look at the glass markings, usually on the corner of the glass. If its Triplex , look for the dot under the word TOUGHENED. You will note that TOUGHENED has 9 letters. If it was made in , say, 1965 , the dot would be under the fifth letter, the H, or 1975 would be the same, you just have to know the decade of manufacture. If it was the year 1970, 60, 50 etc the dot would be slightly past the D. Hope this helps but of course the glass may have been changed.

lazydog · Feb 6, 2011

are these on the windsceen aswell i cant remember this might be the best place to look as less likley to be changed

crashbox · Feb 6, 2011

lazydog said:
are these on the windsceen aswell i cant remember this might be the best place to look as less likley to be changed

Yes, they should be on all the glass, chances are if most of them have the dot under the same letter and if one is different then the different one has been replaced. The SVS have books with all types of codes for all glass makes, helps them identify ringers but TOUGHENED is the only one I know.

TheKeymeister · Feb 6, 2011

Interesting read mate

I've been (trying) to sort mine in reverse order - started at the front first!
Your not too far from me and my mate with his 110 either..

Tom87 · Feb 7, 2011

TheKeymeister · Feb 7, 2011

Tom87 said:
Haha yeah I'm kinda dismantling it back to front but I'll be putting it back together front to back Good to see another guy from the West Midlands on here! Do you take yours green laning locally at all?

We went out green laning down at Barston and got epicly stuck, yep we were stupid and went out on our own lol but a bloke who was walking his dog and just happened to have recently bought a series 2 as a project helped us get it out

Would be interested in meeting up and doing some laning though, the 110 is working but my series is far from it at the moment

treeman · Feb 11, 2011

Tom87 said:
Thanks mate, as above I've ground it down a bit to check it's solid but wish I'd have gone a little further now you guys have mentioned it - I've already started painting the chassis up now. :doh:

Great stuff That is an aftermarket electronic fuel pump, no idea why it was put there, it makes a horrid loud "tick tick tick" sound when running and is in the way of where the coil should be. I've got an original pump ready to go on when I start building him back up, along with another military fuel tank to replace to rotten one.

Yeah the oil cooler doesn't look like the military one - must have been changed out at some point. Seems good though.

Cheers for all the comments guys, it's great to see other people interested in your project.

Here's a few pics from todays little paint session, managed to use a whole 1/2 litre tin of POR-15 doing just one coat of the rear half of the chassis! To be honest I think I've applied it a little too thick as it's dried to a bit of a hammered finish. At least I know for when I do the second coat.

I've stayed away from all the suspension mounts as I have new springs, shocks, shackles, pins, u-bolts, and check straps to go on! I'll paint around them once they're all on. I've left the shackles soaked in WD40 for now...

Here's a picture for rhino, as I know he's a mssive fan of bodged-up electrics on a Series:

Next up is getting the front wings off, getting the front half of the chassis sorted (gotta order some more POR-15 too!), fit the rear suspension, clean up the axles, steam clean the gearbox, and overhaul the brakes...and 100 other things!

Tom

Nice rebuild, keep it up that wiring looks very similar to what I found on my new series 3 apart from the majority of my wires are blue

!!!! (Going to be fun with a multimeter finding out what is what though lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

b20wnx · Feb 11, 2011

yeah its going well there.... why is it all the wiring is so crap in these, when i had a bloke help me wire some spot lights in etc he wanted to rip it all out and start again.... think i might just let him now its in bits lol keep the pics rolling in

dirtyrhino · Feb 11, 2011

b20wnx said:
yeah its going well there.... why is it all the wiring is so crap in these, when i had a bloke help me wire some spot lights in etc he wanted to rip it all out and start again.... think i might just let him now its in bits lol keep the pics rolling in

It's cos the c***s who buy a landy on a whim and realise they need a lot of love and time spent on them don't have a fudging clue when it comes to Auto Electrics, looking after a classic, and how to take pride in their work.

Rant over... carry on

johnny curt 1 · Feb 11, 2011

dirtyrhino said:
It's cos the c***s who buy a landy on a whim and realise they need a lot of love and time spent on them don't have a fudging clue when it comes to Auto Electrics, looking after a classic, and how to take pride in their work.

Rant over... carry on

now there speaks a man of integrity and personal experience

its as if nobody has heared of solder and heatshrink

b20wnx · Feb 11, 2011

heard of what johnny??? i used to be a soldier....
nice rant rhino, keep them coming and one day someone may get through to someone.....
ps get together at my place next saturday, few already coming, all welcome, pm me for details...

johnny curt 1 · Feb 12, 2011

b20wnx said:
heard of what johnny??? i used to be a soldier....
nice rant rhino, keep them coming and one day someone may get through to someone.....
ps get together at my place next saturday, few already coming, all welcome, pm me for details...

theres no i in SOLDER a permanent professional way of joining 2 wires or contacts

My Series 2a Restoration (Attempt!)

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