My not so new Range Rover p38

ok if you have seen my l322 gearbox thread you will know I picked up an M reg p38 4.0 for the incredible bargain price of £90 as the previous owner was scrapping it because it is tatty and couldn’t be arsed with people coming round and pulling it to pieces but it ran and had mot.... so yes I gave him the £90 and drove it away instead of it going to the scrappy, so yes I am a hero (idiot??) as I have saved a car from an early grave... or so I thought, I got it home and checked the fluids.. no oil showed on the dip stick so I topped it up, put a litre in.... still nothing.... 2 litres... still nothing... 3 litres of oil took it to just half way up the dip stick!! Then I checked diffs both front and back took about 1.5 litres, took her out and it seems EVERY outer diff seal leaks!! The front N/S wheel bearing is knackered the universal joint in the front prop is so knackered its non existent and the back brakes were unbelievable!... so my questions are... are all 4 outer diff seals the same part, I did one before on my old p38 (1999) but only needed the one, with regard to the new universal joint, the car has obviously been heavily neglected and I think it has covered some serious miles with its knackered UJ will this have possibly damaged (stretched) the prop shaft UJ housing? Also am I correct in thinking the wheel bearings are non adjustable, so will need replacing rather than tightening?

My god those brakes must of made a noise neglect understatement.
Wheel bearings non adjustable and have to be pressed in and out, dont get ****part .
If the props that bad get a second hand one and just fit it or rebuild then fit.
I think you may need new discs there mind they are cheep well everything is cheep compared to an l322

brianp38dse said:

My god those brakes must of made a noise neglect understatement.
Wheel bearings non adjustable and have to be pressed in and out, dont get ****part .
If the props that bad get a second hand one and just fit it or rebuild then fit.
I think you may need new discs there mind they are cheep well everything is cheep compared to an l322

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Yeah I put new discs on the back as well the pads as they were deeply scored and ooohh yes they were very noisy, that kind of grinding that makes you cringe! I was amazed at how cheap the discs and pads were and they are mintex, Are the bearings diy possible? I seem to remember something about heating the casing up until it’s practically glowing or am I thinking of something else? I will take your advice and get a second hand prop and put new UJs in it as I don’t think this one is going to be much good! As when you rotate it, it hits the flange nuts there is that much play in it, I couldn’t believe now bad the back brakes were! The pad has actually melted it’s that bad!! Crazy how people neglect these cars, don’t they realise problems get worse when ignored!

The bearings involve a big press 10 ton or more, some people just put complete new hubs as the bearing is around £80 and new about £200 iirc
@Grrrrr knows more about them and who sells them.

Just normal where and tear items, well done on saving the old girl I would advise replacing the hubs complete with bearings with know good second hand items iv a number of a great guy who breaks p38s. Just saves loads of Hassel and expense.

brianp38dse said:

The bearings involve a big press 10 ton or more, some people just put complete new hubs as the bearing is around £80 and new about £200 iirc
@Grrrrr knows more about them and who sells them.

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yeah I think I will just bang in a new hub in as I have to remove the hub to do the drive shaft seal anyway and I don’t know how long the bearing has been loose as there is a good 3/4” play in it, steering shakes like f*** probably not helped by the prop tho! if @Grrrrrr or @biketeacherdave could advise on the best place to get them that would be great as it’s not really something I would be happy to get off Fleabay as your never sure what your getting!

biketeacherdave said:

Just normal where and tear items, well done on saving the old girl I would advise replacing the hubs complete with bearings with know good second hand items iv a number of a great guy who breaks p38s. Just saves loads of Hassel and expense.

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Yeah just normal wear really and after a good clean the old girl looks great just two minor rust scabs on the rear of the back arches and a leaky joint on the exhaust, but for 150000 miles she ain’t a bad old bird and for £90 I’m well happy!

At £90 for the p38 its worth keeping so you can at least have one the road at any one time, I mean range rovers are so reliable

I have been to this guys place he has helped me out with a few bits very genuin fella give him a call
Paul 07885 269472

brianp38dse said:

The bearings involve a big press 10 ton or more, some people just put complete new hubs as the bearing is around £80 and new about £200 iirc
@Grrrrr knows more about them and who sells them.

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Timken bearing is about 70, I think. @MrGorsky got new hubs for about double that IIRC. Place in Brum. Got it in my Favourites somewhere ready for the inevitable!

V8made said:

yeah I think I will just bang in a new hub in as I have to remove the hub to do the drive shaft seal anyway and I don’t know how long the bearing has been loose as there is a good 3/4” play in it, steering shakes like f*** probably not helped by the prop tho! if @Grrrrrr or @biketeacherdave could advise on the best place to get them that would be great as it’s not really something I would be happy to get off Fleabay as your never sure what your getting!

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On my phone at the mo but hopefully @MrGorsky will be along shortly.

Been out playing in the snow!

Those brake pads made I laugh.....
Still, right place right time and all that.