My first Land Rover! Disco 2 OR Disco 3

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E

Edwardofsweden

Member
Posts
10
Location
Sweden
Hi there! Name’s Edward, live in southern Sweden.
Now im looking into buying a Land Rover for the first time. Looking at Disco 2 or Disco 3.

Disco 3 2,7TDV6 HSE is about 9000£ in Sweden
Disco 2 TD5 (102kw) is about 5300£ in Sweden

would you kind people please give me some advice in what to look for and what to watch out for?
We use quite a lot of salt on our roads here in Sweden at the winters, therefore i would like to know about corrosion also. In short; how much do they rust?
 
They both rust. The TD5 to the rear chassis, the D3 to the sills, I think.
Both can be tricky with their electronics but then so can a lot of modern cars
Have a really good read of the Discovery part of this forum to find all you can before making your choice.
 
Oh, and welcome to the forum.:D:D:D
Why not go to the "introduce yourself" part and do just that?;)
Hint. Use google to search for the problems i.e.type in Discovery 2 3 rust and see what you get, it'll be easier and more accurate than trying to search just here. And you'll gt a wider response. Googole WILL kick you back into here a lot still. ;)
:):):):)
 
Edwardofsweden said:
Hi there! Name’s Edward, live in southern Sweden.
Now im looking into buying a Land Rover for the first time. Looking at Disco 2 or Disco 3.

Disco 3 2,7TDV6 HSE is about 9000£ in Sweden
Disco 2 TD5 (102kw) is about 5300£ in Sweden

would you kind people please give me some advice in what to look for and what to watch out for?
We use quite a lot of salt on our roads here in Sweden at the winters, therefore i would like to know about corrosion also. In short; how much do they rust?
Click to expand...
All vehicles have their rust/corrosion spots, some less than others. The manufacturing protection or the the previous ownership will help in its prevention.
The D2 & 3 are old now usually a few owners and a high mileage, the last of the D4 is the best bet with one owner if you intend to buy a decent disco second hand.

Unfortunately you have just met the Forums P***** telling you to introduce yourself... dont wory about it . I expect you have a similar word for them in Swedish.
 
Last edited:
discool said:
All vehicles have their rust/corrosion spots, some less than others. The manufacturing protection or the the previous ownership will help in its prevention.
The D2 & 3 are old now usually a few owners and a high mileage, the last of the D4 is the best bet with one owner if you intend to buy a decent disco second hand.

Unfortunately you have just met the Forums P***** telling you to introduce yourself... dont wory about it . I expect you have a similar word for them in Swedish.
Click to expand...
And unfortunately you have now met the Forum's know all who likes to spend time trolling and looking for opportunities for put downs. I didn't tell you to introduce yourself, I merely suggested you might like to. There is no compulsion at all about it.
You will be pleased to hear that the vast majority of us are not like that at all and you will be given help, encouragement and a few laughs along the way.
Despite @discool 's low opinion of me, he is in fact quite knowledgeable, (although he tries to make out he practically knows everything to do with Discos), so he can be helpful when he chooses, but he is choosy about it and sometimes his help is a little cryptic.
Don't worry, most of us are straightforward.:):):):):)
His platitudes on rust and previous ownership are just that, obvious to anyone with a brain, and as you asked about disco 2s and 3s his remark about a late Disco 4 is just him being him really, not an answer to your question and thus off topic. @gstuart is the real go to guy on the Disco 3 and @sierrafery is hot on the D2 and especially electronics. but there are lots on here who knopw the D2 from end to end.
Discool, according to his profile, owns and has owned D1s.
 
Hi
I own a D2 for about 5 years now and I was also thinking in the past to change it to D3, but finally decided to stay with D2. The most important point for me was that I can almost repair everything on my D2 having some special tool and a Nanocom. Here in Hungary we have only few places who has good knowledge about Landrovers so if you can not do it yourself than it is expensive and time consuming.
The other point which made me worry is the possible engine problem of D3 which is rare but could happen. If it happens then it means a new engine which is the price of a good D2.
Even D3 probably a nicer car than D2, parts for D2 are less expensive (you can even buy a complete car with rusted chassis for about 1000 pounds from UK) which can be used as donor.
I have just made a stage1 remap on my td5 and it drives great (probably close to a D3).
Regarding on rust, D2 chassis can be repaired, complete frames (rear, half or full) can be bought from UK.
 
+1^^^
I had my D2's rear chassi welded up this year for £200, and I think you will find yourself needing a diagnostic tool as @berg450 says. The three most of use are the Nanocom and/or the Hawkeye and/or the Foxwell. They vary in price and capability and some have quirks. But it won't be long before you need one.
I am biased towards the D2 because I don't like electronics and the D2 is really at or beyond my limits, but the only real rust problem is the chassis.
I am assuming you have not mentioned the D1 because they are too rare or too old fashioned for you. But in case that is not the case many of us do still run them. I, for instance have two. They are far easier to work on and although their rear floor and sills rust their chassis is a lot better for rust.
do keep us informed with your quest.:):):):)
 
Hi again and thank you all for your replies! Quite use to ”forum friendlyness” so won’t take offence from anyone or anything, just happy that you took the time to reply. :)

A few more questions has popped up during the day. I would really appriciate it if you took the time to answer.

1: transmissions: what is preferrable for a disco 2 with ca. 275k km on the clock? Clutch replacement intervals on manual? Transmission wear on automatics?

2: compability with bio fuels: i would like to run mine on RME, do any of you have experience with that? Changing of fuel hoses etc.?

3: comfort, are d2 and d3 even comperable in comfort?

4: fuel consumption, what mpg (or litres per 100km) do you get on yours?
 
Welcome Edward.

I have a D2 from 2004 ( Landmark) and I've had it for about 12 months now. I've had many teething problems like fuel pump, front ball joints, welding rear chassis under the shock mounts and even a new automatic gearbox but I absolutely love it. I enjoy working on it and have great satisfaction in knowing I can fix most things myself with a little help from these guys on this forum. I know she will never be 100% fixed but I don't think any of us are though are we really?? She is now part of our family.

I think I'm getting about 30 mpg at the moment.

I hope this helps. Stay safe.
 
1, d2 manual all day long, auto is only 4 speed, d3 has to be auto.
2, like most modern cars the fuel lines are nylon like material, though I guess there are some hoses.
3, d3 streets ahead of the d2, though a d2 with ace is fun around the corners.
4, d2 manual might get 30mpg if driven like a pussy, auto never in a million years, , d3 auto 20mpg town work, low 20s general running around, and long runs sticking to 70mph max will get you near to that magic 30, though 26/7 is more realistic.

Tbh I would shy away from either model, and get yourself an allroad with the 3.0tdi engine, or somehting along the same lines.
 
1/ Personal choice. If you are gentle with a clutch it will last longer than otherwise, you will not know how gentle previous owners were. Don't forget changing the clutch will usually involve changing the Dual Mass Flywheel at the same time as it would not be clever to not do so.

Automatics are good as long as you look after them, i.e. change the ATF and filter every now and then. but mine has now developed an annoying leak so will have to be removed just to change it. They are prone to problems with the gear change switch, "xyz" (electrical) and of course the pipes taking the ATF to and from the cooler, plus the cooler, can have problems too. But luck plays a part in all this.

2/ See https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/123943732/?q=biofuel&o=relevance&c[node]=8 and other sites on the internet will let you know. No personal experience.
Some veg oil can be bought a bit cheaper than diesel here, but there is not a lot in it. Maybe you have a source of biodiesel that is much cheaper than diesel in Sweden!
Opinions as to whether you can run a TD5 on veg oil vary, although if you mix it with diesel and watch your fuel filter is seems to be OK.
3/ as far as comfort is concerned, a member was telling me today that the D3 is more comfortable than the D2, and he has one of each, but he has special reasons for needing this. I find my D2 comfortable but after a long journey I find I have an ache between the shoulder blades that I never ever had with my D1. So I think this, as so often, is a personal thing.
4/ Fuel consumption on my D2 tends to be about 26 mpg although on a longer run I have had 28-9. Autos use more fuel as you would expect. As always it depends on the entire fuel system being tip-top and how you drive. The D3 ought to be better as it is a more modern engine. About 27.5 mpg is what I have seen reported.
 
Had two Disco 2's, first a '99 TD5 manual, second was a '00 TD5 Auto. (Sold the latter 7 years ago and bought an L322 Rangie)
D2's are fantastic cars, had some great times in both of them.

However, If I was after a Discovery I would definitely be going for a D3 HSE. Buy a good one and I'm sure you will never look back.
 
I've recently bought a very nice D2 (too busy to get it tested yet)We all know of the chassis rust but there are some photos on Fb of very serious front inner wing rust, not rot resistant as I thought. Most of its hidden behind the wing liners though a close look under the bonnet is a guide.
 
Hello Edward,
I have a Discovery 2 which is a Japanese import. It is aV8 petrol and great.As it spent many years in Japan the chassis is very good on original factory paint

I think Jap imports are a good buy if you want aDiscovery 2.

It s very smooth; I had a TD5 diesel for 10 years and the V8 is a nice car to drive with lots of power.
Fuel consumption is not good with 12mpg around town and 18mpg on a log run.
Most V8s are auto and have a good trim level.
 
westone said:
Hello Edward,
I have a Discovery 2 which is a Japanese import. It is aV8 petrol and great.As it spent many years in Japan the chassis is very good on original factory paint

I think Jap imports are a good buy if you want aDiscovery 2.

It s very smooth; I had a TD5 diesel for 10 years and the V8 is a nice car to drive with lots of power.
Fuel consumption is not good with 12mpg around town and 18mpg on a log run.
Most V8s are auto and have a good trim level.
Click to expand...
Don't know if you would be able to import a Jap one into Sweden though.
 
Nichol71 said:
Welcome Edward.

I have a D2 from 2004 ( Landmark) and I've had it for about 12 months now. I've had many teething problems like fuel pump, front ball joints, welding rear chassis under the shock mounts and even a new automatic gearbox but I absolutely love it. I enjoy working on it and have great satisfaction in knowing I can fix most things myself with a little help from these guys on this forum. I know she will never be 100% fixed but I don't think any of us are though are we really?? She is now part of our family.

I think I'm getting about 30 mpg at the moment.

I hope this helps. Stay safe.
Click to expand...

Hi! And thank you!
Im leaning towards the D2 for the same reasons :)

30 mpg equals about 9,5 litres per 100km which is what I expected.
Thank you for your answer :)
 
:D:D
lynall said:
1, d2 manual all day long, auto is only 4 speed, d3 has to be auto.
2, like most modern cars the fuel lines are nylon like material, though I guess there are some hoses.
3, d3 streets ahead of the d2, though a d2 with ace is fun around the corners.
4, d2 manual might get 30mpg if driven like a pussy, auto never in a million years, , d3 auto 20mpg town work, low 20s general running around, and long runs sticking to 70mph max will get you near to that magic 30, though 26/7 is more realistic.

Tbh I would shy away from either model, and get yourself an allroad with the 3.0tdi engine, or somehting along the same lines.
Click to expand...

thank you for your answers!
Not sure what you ment by ”d2 with ace” can you explain?

By ”allroad” do you medan like Audi A6 allroad? A little confused here, sorry :D
 
Stanleysteamer said:
1/ Personal choice. If you are gentle with a clutch it will last longer than otherwise, you will not know how gentle previous owners were. Don't forget changing the clutch will usually involve changing the Dual Mass Flywheel at the same time as it would not be clever to not do so.

Automatics are good as long as you look after them, i.e. change the ATF and filter every now and then. but mine has now developed an annoying leak so will have to be removed just to change it. They are prone to problems with the gear change switch, "xyz" (electrical) and of course the pipes taking the ATF to and from the cooler, plus the cooler, can have problems too. But luck plays a part in all this.

2/ See https://www.landyzone.co.uk/search/123943732/?q=biofuel&o=relevance&c[node]=8 and other sites on the internet will let you know. No personal experience.
Some veg oil can be bought a bit cheaper than diesel here, but there is not a lot in it. Maybe you have a source of biodiesel that is much cheaper than diesel in Sweden!
Opinions as to whether you can run a TD5 on veg oil vary, although if you mix it with diesel and watch your fuel filter is seems to be OK.
3/ as far as comfort is concerned, a member was telling me today that the D3 is more comfortable than the D2, and he has one of each, but he has special reasons for needing this. I find my D2 comfortable but after a long journey I find I have an ache between the shoulder blades that I never ever had with my D1. So I think this, as so often, is a personal thing.
4/ Fuel consumption on my D2 tends to be about 26 mpg although on a longer run I have had 28-9. Autos use more fuel as you would expect. As always it depends on the entire fuel system being tip-top and how you drive. The D3 ought to be better as it is a more modern engine. About 27.5 mpg is what I have seen reported.
Click to expand...

Hi and thank you for your answers!
About dual mass flywheels i often weld them together thus eliminating the ”cushioning” of the rubber compound between the halves, when you are working on a car with a shot (dual mass)flywheel you often notice that the clutch disk it self is dampened by springs between the splined center and the friction disk it self. Goes without saying that this cant be done if the outer half of the flywheel has come undone as centering will be an issue.
Enough about that. :)
I have been running both Passat B5 tdi and Toyota d4d engines on straight RME without problems both summer and winter. So not too worried about the fuel itself, more concerned about the components in the fuel system (hoses, seals, o-rings) as they can react quite strongly with the RME in some cars.

I can buy swedish made RME here for about 1£/litre inkluding taxes so it would be beneficial for me if i could.
 
robhew86 said:
Had two Disco 2's, first a '99 TD5 manual, second was a '00 TD5 Auto. (Sold the latter 7 years ago and bought an L322 Rangie)
D2's are fantastic cars, had some great times in both of them.

However, If I was after a Discovery I would definitely be going for a D3 HSE. Buy a good one and I'm sure you will never look back.
Click to expand...

Hi! Thank you for your thoughts and opinions, i will have it in mind while car shopping :)
 
Kenbo said:
I've recently bought a very nice D2 (too busy to get it tested yet)We all know of the chassis rust but there are some photos on Fb of very serious front inner wing rust, not rot resistant as I thought. Most of its hidden behind the wing liners though a close look under the bonnet is a guide.
Click to expand...

Hi and thank you for your answer!
Great tip, i will look for rust there (also)
:D;)
 
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