Multiple issues with a Disco 3 after body off chassis

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

I have seen this yes, what a guy!

Safe to say my Mrs would shoot me if I ever imagined doing such a thing!

He must have the neighbours in his pocket

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Maybe he fixes their cars for nothing, it's what I do. Except the sh!t one!

kermit_rr said:

I grew up on traditional wiring where wiring diagrams made sense. Now, you don't get wiring diagrams and it really gets my goat.. you've got connector A but where does it go!? You've got to read paragraphs to learn it disappears into aloom going who knows where and terminates at connector G1234 but no clue where that is located FFS

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Quite!
When I built my last kit car I used two looms from the Cortina mk4/5 it was based on. Once finished half the loom seemingly was in the "gash".
(You need two when doing a 30s style roadster as you need to extend some wires and the second loom gives you wires of the same thickness and colour etc. Cheap as chips down a scrappy in them days. And it gives you extra switches and relays, for driving lights etc. But it is still like knitting with spaghetti!)

Stanleysteamer said:

Quite!
When I built my last kit car I used two looms from the Cortina mk4/5 it was based on. Once finished half the loom seemingly was in the "gash".
(You need two when doing a 30s style roadster as you need to extend some wires and the second loom gives you wires of the same thickness and colour etc. Cheap as chips down a scrappy in them days. And it gives you extra switches and relays, for driving lights etc. But it is still like knitting with spaghetti!)

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But you can lace the loom properly or use heat shrink if that's what you like ...

Dippypud said:

But you can lace the loom properly or use heat shrink if that's what you like ...

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Exactly. some do them up to make them look like vintage electrics!

andyschleckscheshirecat said:

Why have you removed the body to replace the clutch and flywheel?

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No idea, it's completely unnecessary, and simply adds complexity, as per the current situation.

Nodge68 said:

No idea, it's completely unnecessary, and simply adds complexity, as per the current situation.

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Indeed , absolute madness just for a clutch and flywheel when as we know it would have just been the case of dropping the gearbox snd not going through all the hassle of removing the body , plus I really hope they’ve checked the battery is up to par

also really hope the timing belts and oil pump was checked / replaced at the same time , particularly seeing the rear timing belt is a sod to get to with the body on, would have ensured I done every difficult job with the body removed , including the turbo stud mod etc

see it’s a 2009 , risk of the oil pump casing issues having the weaker one

fingers crossed that’s been done as one big job otherwise I fear if that’s not addressed could be for nought

Guys, i managed to start it. I rechecked (disconnected and reconnected) the big connector in the front left area in the engine bay (behind the headlight), and the connector to the abs pump (even if it was never disconnected during this process). Also I secured the big connector in the rear left wheel well with zip ties (its securing mechanism got damaged during the operation), and then the car just started. I’ll go back to the shop friday and saturday to complete everything and i’ll try to simulate that situation again (by disconnecting the rear connector and then each of those two in the engine bay ) to be sure where the issue was from, and i’ll keep you updated

diesselxxl16 said:

Guys, i managed to start it. I rechecked (disconnected and reconnected) the big connector in the front left area in the engine bay (behind the headlight), and the connector to the abs pump (even if it was never disconnected during this process). Also I secured the big connector in the rear left wheel well with zip ties (its securing mechanism got damaged during the operation), and then the car just started. I’ll go back to the shop friday and saturday to complete everything and i’ll try to simulate that situation again (by disconnecting the rear connector and then each of those two in the engine bay ) to be sure where the issue was from, and i’ll keep you updated

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gstuart said:

Hi

Plus 1 what’s already been mentioned , make sure u check behind the passenger and drivers side head light

rear back passenger side wheel, another big connector

passenger side front wheel arch down inside the engine bay

Have u also done a canbus test with a multimeter as that can also help if it’s on the high or low side

plus make extra attention to the ABS module plug as a lot of system go through that

hope that helps a little and u get it sorted out

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hi

thanks for the update , that’s great that some of the things I also suggested worked for u

glad it helped and does that mean there be a massive thank u cake, lmao

@diesselxxl16 meant to ask, when u try the different connectors would u be so kind to let us know how u get on plse

plus may i ask was the information useful to u , cheers

Hi @diesselxxl16

maybe it’s the difference in language but wished to add on this forum it’s always nice to say thank u to the people who helped you , that way we then know you appreciated the help to fix your landy

don’t wish this to come across as rude but after we all helped you there has been no please or thank you or any form of gratefulness

well I’ve said my peace

diesselxxl16 said:

Guys, i managed to start it.

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Good. Next clutch change, don't remove the body, as it's completely unnecessary.

gstuart said:

don’t wish this to come across as rude but after we all helped you there has been no please or thank you or any form of gratefulness

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Quite.

Sorry but please don’t get me wrong. My car isn’t fully fixed and i’m only thinking about tomorrow and the day after when i’m hoping i’ll finish everything. The car has stayed in service for 8 months for various problems and with this issue alone for the past 3 weeks. Also i want to be 100% sure that it was a bad connector and i’ll figure out wich one of those that i have fiddled with was and i’ll post here for everyone all my conclusions. I would like to thank everyone for your help and thoughts and please wish me luck to finish all the work and not get into another issue as the car was very neglected by its former owners and i think this is the first major repair of it’s life.

gstuart said:

Hi @diesselxxl16

maybe it’s the difference in language but wished to add on this forum it’s always nice to say thank u to the people who helped you , that way we then know you appreciated the help to fix your landy

don’t wish this to come across as rude but after we all helped you there has been no please or thank you or any form of gratefulness

well I’ve said my peace

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Also there was a please in the first post and in my first reply i thanked everyone for their replyes. I don’t want to be misunderstood , but currently i don’t consider my car 100% solved, i just posted an update as i saw a first sign from the car. I intended to conclude this thread once i got everything 100% figured out and share it here and of course to thank to everyone that took their time to read my problem and to give their thoughts and opinions that clearly got me on the right path into solving the car. Thank everyone again and hopefully in 1-2 days i’ll post once again with good news.

Secondly, i’d like to ask you for an opinion on the oil pump. Last year when i got the car at aprox 280.000 kilometers , one of the first things that i’ve done was the timing belt with tensioners and all (since in it’s service history wasn’t recorded such a job!), but not the oil pump. I’m aware that they can fail on this model, but i’ve read it after the timing job was done. Now the car has the oil light in the dash lit , along with the airbag one. The mechanic says it’s probabily an electric problem , since he’s changed the oil pressure sensor that’s on top of the engine , and after you start the car , the ticking noise from the lifters ends, suggesting that oil goes to them. On that assumption he says that there is oil pressure in the engine and the oil light it’s just an electrical fault, although i asked him to measure the oil pressure just to be sure. He is very stubborn as i prefer to be better safe than sorry. Probabily will change the oil pump in the near future just to be sure. Ty.

Hey guys, final update

I disconnected the rear plug (in the left rear wheelwell) and the not starting - christmas tree dash issue reappeared. 100% that rear connector was the issue. Tightened it again with zipties.

Also, about the oil lamp in the dash:
The oil pressure sensor it’s basically a ground switch that opens circuit when oil pressure is ok. I identified the oil pressure sensor wire in the dash. In the engine bay it‘s black/green and in the dash it‘s a mustard like colour (pin nr 3 if i remember correctly in the IC connector). It has continuity from the sensor to the instrument cluster. Also it‘s short to ground as it should be. When engine starts, it breaks the circuit. I fitted a bulb between the 12V when power on and the oil sensor wire. This now acts as an oil pressure indicator , temporarily because i‘m taking the car to an auto electronist to deep inspect the Instrument Cluster and I don‘t want to take any chances on the way since the oil light in the dash is on permanently.

So all in all, the car is ready to be buttoned up, another stop at an electronist and in the future, of course, an oil pump change.

Thanks to everyone and I hope I explained all that i did in detail and if anyone wants to know more, please ask .