LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Ahh yes, I knew I would forget something! Doors - thanks to all those who pointed it out, as Ide be fuming when I found out the hard way!
Much advice needed! (WARNING, NEWBIE IDIOT!!!!)
- Thread starter LetsHopeItFits
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Right, well, if a series isnt an easy car to work on, what is?
Also, how can I tell if Im buying something that has been cared for mechanically etc, but a bit rough and battered, and something thats just been neglected? I want to buy a project, not a problem!
Rust spots, is it just chassis, bulkhead, and footwells? Thats it right?
Also, how can I tell if Im buying something that has been cared for mechanically etc, but a bit rough and battered, and something thats just been neglected? I want to buy a project, not a problem!
Rust spots, is it just chassis, bulkhead, and footwells? Thats it right?
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
- Posts
- 15,506
- Location
- somewhere else
They're very easy to work on, with simplicity akin to a garden tractor..
However they do rot with a fury, that being the most complicated part of the whole experience, anyone can bolt/unbolt parts but it takes skill to properly weld a chassis/bulkhead, either for aesthetic reasons but mainly for safety.
However they do rot with a fury, that being the most complicated part of the whole experience, anyone can bolt/unbolt parts but it takes skill to properly weld a chassis/bulkhead, either for aesthetic reasons but mainly for safety.
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Yes, another reason for possibly choosing to rebuild on a galv chassis/bulkhead.
In terms of welding - its a subject that I think I know very little about, Ive certainly never done it, but am I right in saying that welding a chassis is different to welding say, an exhaust manifold for a turbo car, in that the chassis welds neednt be as precise or tidy? Or am I typing out of my arse again?
In terms of welding - its a subject that I think I know very little about, Ive certainly never done it, but am I right in saying that welding a chassis is different to welding say, an exhaust manifold for a turbo car, in that the chassis welds neednt be as precise or tidy? Or am I typing out of my arse again?
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
- Posts
- 15,506
- Location
- somewhere else
Welding is about penetration "fnarr" no use splattering a load of chicken shíte on and hoping for the best..
MIG or Stick welding the latter being my preference on Land rover chassis as you can burn though some shíte unlike with MIG where you have to put the extra prep in. It takes practice as does everything
Of course if you go all Galv you won't have to worry about welding
MIG or Stick welding the latter being my preference on Land rover chassis as you can burn though some shíte unlike with MIG where you have to put the extra prep in. It takes practice as does everything
Of course if you go all Galv you won't have to worry about welding
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Stick being the cheapest route, as it doesnt require gas? Or using a mig machine with a flux coated wire? Or just some jumpleads, a welding stick and a battery/alternator? Or is that not powerful enough?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
- Posts
- 15,506
- Location
- somewhere else
Stick is the cheapest, your only consumable is the rods.
I have welded with a car battery, may or may not have been drunk when I did it...
I have welded with a car battery, may or may not have been drunk when I did it...
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Did it work? Saves a lot of money vs buying a welder!
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
- Posts
- 15,506
- Location
- somewhere else
No not really..
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 27,632
- Location
- Manchester
I used a six inch nail when I ran out of rods.
It worked a bit
It worked a bit
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 27,632
- Location
- Manchester
Get one that drives. It will probably need a bit of welding, new brake kits, and a good fettle with the smoke and spark wiry bits. That’ll get you on the road, be able to stop and allow people to see you. After that it will be a pretty constant spend as bits wear out. As a second car it can wait until funds allow. I decided to rebuild the engine on mine more if a precaution than necessity and to hopefully remove any doubt in its reliability. How it ran so sweet for so long is a complete mystery. It had next to no head gasket left. The valves were pitted and loose in the guides. The pistons rattled about one millimetre in the bores and the cam looked like the only twiglet left after a bachelor party.
It still started first turn and ran like a champ for seven years like that. The only thing that went pop was the timing chain and I’m sure that was caused by a replacement tensioner guide jumping out of its slot. I even took it on the motorway occasionally for a good clear out.
You’ll never scratch the itch until you have lived with one. At the end of the day if you don’t strip it to a pile of rusty lumps on the drive you can sell it on to the next loon that thinks it’s a good idea.
It was easy for me. I had one thirty years previously and knew exactly what they are about. I have had some very posh cars over the years and wouldn’t swap any of them for my series. It’s my daily and I will be devastated when I’m too old to get in it.
Don’t listen to the crap about keeping up with modern traffic. That’s just a lame excuse for not being able to speed. Try telling a HGV driver that. Many professional road users spend eight hours a day driving something worse than a series. My bus as all our new fleet are governed to 43 miles an hour and I drive it 10 hours a night. Even on motorways. It’s a mind set.
It still started first turn and ran like a champ for seven years like that. The only thing that went pop was the timing chain and I’m sure that was caused by a replacement tensioner guide jumping out of its slot. I even took it on the motorway occasionally for a good clear out.
You’ll never scratch the itch until you have lived with one. At the end of the day if you don’t strip it to a pile of rusty lumps on the drive you can sell it on to the next loon that thinks it’s a good idea.
It was easy for me. I had one thirty years previously and knew exactly what they are about. I have had some very posh cars over the years and wouldn’t swap any of them for my series. It’s my daily and I will be devastated when I’m too old to get in it.
Don’t listen to the crap about keeping up with modern traffic. That’s just a lame excuse for not being able to speed. Try telling a HGV driver that. Many professional road users spend eight hours a day driving something worse than a series. My bus as all our new fleet are governed to 43 miles an hour and I drive it 10 hours a night. Even on motorways. It’s a mind set.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
For good chassis repairs you want a MIG welder. Inverter welders are good. Only a few grand for a decent one.
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
I dont plan on doing loads of welding, so if its a few grand for a welder, and more for the gas, and then Ive got to find somewhere to keep it, etc. It would make more sense for me to take it to someone who can actually weld, and for them to do it, or to replace rotten bits with galv bits
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Just because you don't plan on it, doesn't mean you won't be doing it!
We are talking mild steel structures here, not the best quality steel on a Series 3, and none of them less than 40 years old.
They are all rusty, unless they have been re-chassised. And the bulkheads are often rustier than the chassis.
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Is attaching ebay links allowed? Ive found some 109s on ebay, and want to know if its cheaper to buy "one like this" or cheaper to buy "one like this, and so the repairs"
You can save money by doing prep work yourself then get someone to do the welding...the rust is always more than it looks I'm doing a bulkhead at the mo what was a few pin holes on a double skin below master cylinders turning into a pain in the butt...
LetsHopeItFits
Active Member
- Posts
- 411
- Location
- North Wales
Its about 2.7k for a chassis and 1.7k for a bulkhead - thats 4.4k. Are the days of completely rotten series for a few hundred quid gone?
At that price, the galv option looks VERY expensive. Roughly how much does a 2nd had chassis/bulkhead in solid condition cost?
Getting stuff galvanised isnt very expensive, its about £350 per tonne (last time I checked)
At that price, the galv option looks VERY expensive. Roughly how much does a 2nd had chassis/bulkhead in solid condition cost?
Getting stuff galvanised isnt very expensive, its about £350 per tonne (last time I checked)
Remember you still need a V5 to rebuild on a galv chassis they dont come with one and a secondhand repairable one probably wont come with one either as it will likely have been a re-chassis on a galv and will be retained by seller...be carefull buying used bits especialy chassis...
Turboman
Mab An Gov
- Posts
- 60,151
- Location
- Lathrowda, Kernow
Yes.
The reason I first got Series Land Rovers in the 80s was that I was working on forestry work, and couldn't afford a Land Cruiser or Shogun.
Series were a few hundred quid, I was mechanically competent, and the parts were cheap.
That situation is completely different now, apart from the parts being fairly cheap, and that I am still mechanically competent, although I have no intention of working on Land Rovers if I can help it.
Series are now mostly rich men's toys, although a lot of rich women seem to have them as well.
