MPG Info

Jay247 said:

My issue might be more trivial than all that anyway. Not sure I can get it in the garage!

The garage door height from the floor is 178cm

Click to expand...

Definitely not at normal ride height.

Anyone know the dimensions for its lowest ride height?

Jay247 said:

My issue might be more trivial than all that anyway. Not sure I can get it in the garage!

The garage door height from the floor is 178cm

Click to expand...

L322 in access mode is around shoulder height for me so i'd say around 180cm, you might just scrape it in, so long as it doesn't go in to standard height half way through and lift yer garage off its foundations

Henry_b said:

You can just blank them, remapping will give around 320hp and 720nm which helps mid range acceleration

Click to expand...

I'd read the egr was required for the dpf regen?
You must have to do something so you don't get an engine light?

kermit_rr said:

I'd read the egr was required for the dpf regen?
You must have to do something so you don't get an engine light?

Click to expand...

No idea to be fair, i've blanked quite a few without issues.

kermit_rr said:

I'd read the egr was required for the dpf regen?
You must have to do something so you don't get an engine light?

Click to expand...

3.6, definitely before 2009 don't have dpf. 4.4 tdv8 does

Some people with 3.6 get eml, most don't apparently I'll let yous know

kermit_rr said:

I'd read the egr was required for the dpf regen?
You must have to do something so you don't get an engine light?

Click to expand...

Blanking may cause the EML to light as the valve is still opening and closing on command and that is what is reported back but no change in airflow is detected by the MAF..

Datatek said:

Blanking may cause the EML to light as the valve is still opening and closing on command and that is what is reported back but no change in airflow is detected by the MAF..

Click to expand...

Spot on, depending on the sensitivity of the emissions system. Some cars will limp on a sniff of émissions issues and some will carry on regardless...

Datatek said:

Blanking may cause the EML to light as the valve is still opening and closing on command and that is what is reported back but no change in airflow is detected by the MAF..

Click to expand...

Yeah, this is what I was getting at but couldn't string the words together

My tuppence-worth as I own a 3.6 TDV8 may sound harsh and it't not meant that way at all but it is the reality.
If fuel economy is a concern - don't buy one.
If electrics are a concern - don't buy one.
If Air suspension scares you - don't buy one.
If you don't have about £1500 per year to spend on maintenance - don't buy one.
If it's really cheap or has minimal history - Don't buy that one!

Ok, so that's the bad stuff covered off but the OP has already suggested it's not always about the cost so here's a balanced view (from an imbalanced mind):

I get 19mpg average but these days that is very little motorway driving. On a run as I did last week for about 8 hour of Autoroute at 130kmh (80mph), it managed 28.5 MPG which is good I think. Couple that with the fact that we only go out of the car once for 20 minutes and still arrived fresh I would say it's excellent! The reality is that you are unlikely to break 22mpg over the course of your ownership unless you manage a 4.4 with 8 speed and it might do a little more I'm led to believe.

The L322 is an absolute pleasure to drive and in my opinion far and away better than the Discovery/RR Sport. We have a Disco 4 also and that is as comfortable inside but less compliant as it is a body on frame rather than the Monocoque. My brother had a supercharged RRS and it was epic for distance too even though it was an early one. They are all great cars in their own right.

The inverse of my negativity above is that you need to adjust your thinking around the ownership of these cars, remember that they were £80k new and that the parts are not any cheaper now than they were then, there are aftermarket options but not for everything of course.

Sadly, a lot of them now have had several owners recently who ignore issues and when they mount up the car gets sold and the cycle repeats. They are old and they do go wrong but that's ok, just address each thing as it happens and you won't be too upset. If you're handy with the spanners and you can use a search on the forum or ask the right question with plenty of detail then you'll get loads of help here and on other forums (If you start a post with "Limp Mode on My Range Rover, what is wrong?" you're not going to get far, that's just common sense).

Initially, I found that working on these was daunting which was a first for me but again, not a bid deal once you get used to the size of the hammer you need to wield at a lump this size and also remember that they are very heavy vehicles so you're better off approaching it with HGV fitter mentality and you WILL NEED a big trolley jack and stands that can support the weight.

On the subject of maintenance, I have spent about £300 on mine this week and in the 9 months I've owned it I've spent a total of £2294 on maintenance of which a fair chunk was preventative for completeness though, I bought mine as an auction gamble (cheap) so I expected to spend a lot on it to get it where I wanted it. There is a video on YouTube all about it if you're interested. Also, if you look at it this way £2294/12 is £191.16 per month and that won't buy a very exciting car on a lease deal but you'll actually own the RR and it's a bloody sight more interesting to drive than a Nissan Quashqai!

Good luck with your decision.

P.S. I (ahem) absolutely wouldn't dream of blanking the EGRs let alone have them mapped out that would be a terrible, terrible thing to admit to I mean do. It would be a terrible thing to do! Phew, that was close...

Jay247 said:

So after having my Freelander a while ago and gone through some sporty cars since then I am now looking at a 2006 Range Rover Sport 2.7 tdv6.

I know these aren't great on MPG but whats the typical MPG people are getting for similar models? Real world is always better than a review somewhere.

I have also seen companies selling maps that say they improve fuel economy plus power, not sure both are possible but has anyone used any and seen any improvement.

Car I am looking at has done 130k. Anything to be aware of around that age? Apparently its had the timing belt done recently, has a FSH and has just had a new air compressor.

Thanks for any help

Click to expand...

hi

heres a write up i done on the D3 , RRS very similar , after 2007 the EML needs a software patch if blanking egrs


fuel wise my D3 I get approx 24 around town and 30 on a run, egrs are blanked , but have left the pipes in situ and are blanked on the engine block end so can’t be seen when the mot is done

also think there be some really good D3/4’s coming onto the market if the ULEZ comes into force , best to look on the d3 and RRS forums

hope that also helps

Blob said:

Sadly, a lot of them now have had several owners recently who ignore issues and when they mount up the car gets sold and the cycle repeats

Click to expand...

This is the main reason they get such a bad reputation. I bought at the cheaper end and have already sorted a couple of bodges and easy repairs.

I've only had my l322 a month and its gonna cost me over 800 quid for genuine prop and gearbox service at local specialist but my god, what a car to drive and they're all great tools.

Eyes wide open, be brave and jump in

Same with mine, paid about £3000 for my td6, one of the better ones and a good honest seller who didn’t want to knock a penny off (usually a good sign) done basic maintenance, brakes, couple of services since, gearbox service and all transmission oils, engine breather etc, now started on looks such as steering wheel refurb, etc spend over £1000 in around 9/10 months but even though she’s 18 year old still looks well and still drives well. My next job is the rear hub bushes that have been squeaking for a while, just not had time and mine is also my daily work vehicle, if you get one use it and they seem to become more reliable, the ones parked up as a Sunday car seem to suffer more problems.

Jay247 said:

Anyone know the dimensions for its lowest ride height?

Click to expand...

It should be in Owners Handbook.

Dimensions for the earlier L322 are below. Not sure about "sport" size ?

Jay247 said:

So after having my Freelander a while ago and gone through some sporty cars since then I am now looking at a 2006 Range Rover Sport 2.7 tdv6.

I know these aren't great on MPG but whats the typical MPG people are getting for similar models? Real world is always better than a review somewhere.

I have also seen companies selling maps that say they improve fuel economy plus power, not sure both are possible but has anyone used any and seen any improvement.

Car I am looking at has done 130k. Anything to be aware of around that age? Apparently its had the timing belt done recently, has a FSH and has just had a new air compressor.

Thanks for any help

Click to expand...

Just be aware that a Freelander (assuming a FL2) was LRs most reliable vehicle, and the TDV6 RRS is one of the least reliable, the fuel economy is going to be the least of the issues you'll encounter.

Jay247 said:

So after having my Freelander a while ago and gone through some sporty cars since then I am now looking at a 2006 Range Rover Sport 2.7 tdv6.

I know these aren't great on MPG but whats the typical MPG people are getting for similar models? Real world is always better than a review somewhere.

I have also seen companies selling maps that say they improve fuel economy plus power, not sure both are possible but has anyone used any and seen any improvement.

Car I am looking at has done 130k. Anything to be aware of around that age? Apparently its had the timing belt done recently, has a FSH and has just had a new air compressor.

Thanks for any help

Click to expand...

If it hasn't had the oil pump replaced at the same time, then it's likely to fail at some point in the future, trashing the valves when the belt jumps.

Jay247 said:

What types of costs? Fluids etc?

Click to expand...

If you're at all concerned about the cost of fluids, are you sure an RRS is the vehicle for you? These vehicles are known to burn through well over £1k per year in parts alone, excluding things that break like crankshafts, oil pump housings, suspension compressors, suspension bushes and the like.

Would you consider a full size RR? Quite often in better condition/ less thrashed and often cheaper. However from people’s experience and speaking to mechanics etc the general view is a L322 is more reliable and easier to work on than a sport.