mounted alloy wheel as rear spare

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Rob3104

New Member

Posts

39

• Feb 4, 2013

• #1

I’ve purchased a freestyle alloy as my rear mounted spare on my 90. I’d not given any thought to having to change the bolts but having mounted the new wheel it wobbles and is not as secure as it should be.
It’s obvious now that I need to get some alloy wheel bolts rather that the standard bolts. Do I need mount anything behind the new rear spare to ensure a secure fixing. At the moment there is another bolt which would have butted up to the rear of the old steel wheel.
Any suggestions?

 

the_wolf

Well-Known Member

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16,791

Location

Stonehouse, Scotland

• Feb 4, 2013

• #2

Bolts? Surely a rear spare wheel mount is just three lengths of threaded bar that you put wheel nuts onto in which case it wouldnt really matter whether it was a steely or an alloy.

Is your actual mount secure? Check that it hasnt damaged the door, i know when i had mine on my old door the door it self was cracked just above the mount and it rattled like mad when i was driving.

 

blue beasty

Leaks an prone to bits dropping off

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62,869

Location

Gloucestercotshirewolds

• Feb 4, 2013

• #3

Assuming you have alloys on yer corners with correct bolts (or yer spare is gonna be useless) Cant you just use some rubber/plastic spacers? It's only got to just sit there after all....

 

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Rob3104

New Member

Posts

39

• Feb 4, 2013

• #4

Yes you are right the wheel does sit on the 3 threaded rods and secured with nuts (I said bolts – sorry)! The diameter of the mounting hole is bigger on a alloy wheel than a steel wheel so the stand nut does not secure the wheel very well. That’s why I think i need specific alloy wheel nuts.
The door itself if sounds. It was recently replaced.

 

the_wolf

Well-Known Member

Posts

16,791

Location

Stonehouse, Scotland

• Feb 4, 2013

• #5

Get yourself some big washers then, they should do the job. Or for extra security i used to have a large steel plate with three holes drilled through it to match the spare wheel carrier, this went on over the top of the wheel and then bolted on.

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

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4,209

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The Winchester Club - Englandshire

• Feb 4, 2013

• #6

Large galvy roof washers behind the wheel adjusted with the lock nuts so the wheel dont touch the door.
Use proper alloy wheel nuts or you'll never get it tight.
You'll need proper alloy wheel nuts if you're going to use it on the road as the boggo standard steel wheel nuts will never tighten and will chew the alloy wheel to pieces.
Think of a way to secure the wheel or you'll lose it to the pikeys for scrap.

 

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Rob3104

New Member

Posts

39

• Feb 4, 2013

• #7

Thanks Shifty, I have some locking wheel nuts on the way for all 5 wheels!

 

Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

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4,209

Location

The Winchester Club - Englandshire

• Feb 4, 2013

• #8

Had the same trouble when I swapped my steel modulars for Freestyles.
50mm galvy washers 3mm thick did the trick to keep the wheel off the bodywork.
I drilled them out and threaded them so they wind on the studs to the correct depth then lock in place with the existing back nuts.
Luckily I had a box of old alloy wheel nuts that I got at a boot fair for a fiver a few years ago. I knew they would come in handy.
Locking nuts I already had because the previous owner had fitted alloy lockers to the steel wheels which saved me a few quid.

 

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Rob3104

New Member

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39

• Feb 5, 2013

• #9

Thanks Shifty. I'll be able to get some washers but not sure about theading them! I'm sure I'll work something out!!