More responsive after a short drive

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tweedandbriar

tweedandbriar

Active Member
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258
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Somerset
I know older vehicles drive a little better and more responsive when 'warmed up'. But how/why would this be noticeable in the amount of play before a throttle pedal responds? When my 110 (1999) starts up it takes a while before the pedal response is what I would expect it to be?

Ta!
 
This is a td5? I had the same with mine. Would take about 30sec after starting to get full response from the throttle. My work around used to be to turn it on and then connect my phone, seatbelt, satnav etc. so by the time I was read to leave it was working fully. If I started it and just drove it would sort itself out by the end of the road.
I am not familiar very familiar with the td5 engine but it down to the electronic bits and something not working properly and it taking the ecu a while to reset to a default reading. I did try a new air flow sensor, replaced a couple of the relays, cleaned the ecu plugs out, replaced the injector harness. The usual suspects. But nothing made a difference.
 
I would say it is drawing in a small amount of air from somewhere, maybe worth turning the ign on and listening for the fuel pump running until it stops (10 secs ish), try this three or four times before starting the engine.
Iirc the fuel filter heads used to go porous inside?
 
lynall said:
I would say it is drawing in a small amount of air from somewhere, maybe worth turning the ign on and listening for the fuel pump running until it stops (10 secs ish), try this three or four times before starting the engine.
Iirc the fuel filter heads used to go porous inside?
Click to expand...

Thanks, the fuel pump priming takes longer than 10 seconds after ignition is turned on. Seems to go in two stage too. 1st a low pitch whine....then suddenly raises the pitch before stopping. If I link the two batteries (T-Link Dual Battery System) the priming sound is high from the onset.

I have also noticed what sounds like fuel being sucked through a straw by the cooler too - air in system?
 
tweedandbriar said:
Thanks, the fuel pump priming takes longer than 10 seconds after ignition is turned on. Seems to go in two stage too. 1st a low pitch whine....then suddenly raises the pitch before stopping. If I link the two batteries (T-Link Dual Battery System) the priming sound is high from the onset.

I have also noticed what sounds like fuel being sucked through a straw by the cooler too - air in system?
Click to expand...
Finding air leaks into a diesel fuel system can be a right bar steward.
Have you removed the tank sender and checked the fuel gauzes?
 
lynall said:
Easy to check after a run remove the cap and see if there are any air noises.
Click to expand...


Good plan!

There was already a cut-out on the rear floor to access the fuel pump, but also seen a small cut out on others to access the breather pipe, so if it is the breather, in for a penny and all that, I'd cut another access hole. A blocked breather seems instinctively to explain the occasional surging and need to get the revs up around 2k at times to get the old girl off from a standstill. Would leaving the cap off for a short drive have the same effect as a functional breather pipe? What dya think?
 
tweedandbriar said:
Good plan!

There was already a cut-out on the rear floor to access the fuel pump, but also seen a small cut out on others to access the breather pipe, so if it is the breather, in for a penny and all that, I'd cut another access hole. A blocked breather seems instinctively to explain the occasional surging and need to get the revs up around 2k at times to get the old girl off from a standstill. Would leaving the cap off for a short drive have the same effect as a functional breather pipe? What dya think?
Click to expand...
So long as tank not brimmed it should be a good test.
 
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