More problems, my classic hell

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BTW although not directly related, it might also be worth checking the state of the alternator and battery. An iffy alternator can under certain conditions cause a misfire but usually under load rather than over-run off the throttle, but it can't hurt to check it out.
 
The only thing I can see that could be wrong on the air leak front is that on the distributer there are two stubs for hoses on the vacume advance and there is only a hose on one of them. I have looked all over for another loose hose or where one should come from and I cannot see any.

Should there be a hose on both sides?
 
fett said:
The only thing I can see that could be wrong on the air leak front is that on the distributer there are two stubs for hoses on the vacume advance and there is only a hose on one of them. I have looked all over for another loose hose or where one should come from and I cannot see any.

Should there be a hose on both sides?
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No. Only one pipe to vac advance. Have you taking the vac pipe off from the plenum end then sucking on it? If you can suck through the pipe, vac unit shot. The other way to check is take dizzy cap off and then suck on pipe, you should see the base plate move, or at least trying to move.

Have you checked your air filter isn't blocked/choked up with crud?

How did you get on checking the other possibilities?
 
sounds to me like the stepper valve is dead.i would replace that.
but check the vacuum hose connector to the plenium chamber is clear. just poke a bit of wire through there.
 
Well I have just been out for a long drive in the country with the aircon on and off and all sorts of road conditions. To be honest she doesnt run too bad and as mate with a series III reminded me the other night "its got a green oval on it, its not supposed to work properly" which I thought was fairly apt.

She didnt stall once, and when she was playing up before I cleaned the bypass, when you started the engine with the AC on it used to rev high then stall straight away.It doesnt now , she does hunt a bit but doesnt stall.

The only thing that bothers me is a but of a clunk (which has always happened when going from drive to reverse when parking) when you come of a trailing throttle and coast a bit and then get back on the gas, such as when going round a corner without stopping. I presume its as the revs drop to the bit too low tick over occasionally and then thers some back-lash in the drive line when you put your foot down again.

Which driveline component is it that does that? if I change that out (as it was annoying when parking, as people think you have hit something lol) then I can live with a slightly low tickover occasionally, particuarly in summer as the ac boosts the revs a bit.
 
the dreaded reverse clunk, lovely sound.
change that stepper motor, and i think you will resolve the stalling totally.
tempting fate, but my LSE, has been perfect since i got her, apart from a set of rogue plugs, that caused a major headache, so just cos the old landies and P38's are always in the forum problem page, classics are a better behaved beast.i changed my ovals to the black ones. lol.
 
Sounds like progress, at least the engine is running.

As for clonks and general transmission noises where do you want to start? Prop shaft UJ's, suspension bushes, diff backlash, worn gearbox components, rear A frame ball joint/bushes, transfer box. I think as long as it isn't too bad it is easier to live with it in the knowledge "they all do that sir".
 
Well I was hoping for a more specific answer on the clunk lol, on my bmw they are well known for it on the diff mount, but they are very diffrent animals.

Which plugs were they? I took out ngks to run champions, 1992lse is not the first person to mention duff plgs from new to me.

I am happy though:) as all my welding is now done-for a while anyway lol
 
Well sorted , I know it took a while and yes alot of other things broke and needed fixing in the mean time.

So it turns out that genuine lucas cap leads and rotor are not the same as genuine landrover lucas leads cap and rotor.

It now starts and drives like any other car first thing in the morning instead of needing a min warming up.

Stupid me for thinking that a black cap made by lucas and black cap made by lucas and sold by landrover for twice the price were the same!:D
 
fett said:
Well sorted , I know it took a while and yes alot of other things broke and needed fixing in the mean time.

So it turns out that genuine lucas cap leads and rotor are not the same as genuine landrover lucas leads cap and rotor.

It now starts and drives like any other car first thing in the morning instead of needing a min warming up.

Stupid me for thinking that a black cap made by lucas and black cap made by lucas and sold by landrover for twice the price were the same!:D
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They annoy the hell out of ya and would test the patience of a saint when they play up and go from one fault to another, but when you get the issues all sorted it's a great feeling isn't it, hope you have many months of trouble free motoring ahead.
 
Mind you this morning in the rain it only ran on 7 again for about half a mile :doh: but thats still better than 6!

Why cant they make decent parts!
 
PML I thought you had all the lights you needed m8 lol:D

, I got stu to check and do the swivels when he came to sort the engine, one was greased already, the other had a thimble of oil and a cup of water in it lol

It is greased up now!
 
fett said:
Mind you this morning in the rain it only ran on 7 again for about half a mile :doh: but thats still better than 6!

Why cant they make decent parts!
Click to expand...

maybe you still got a minor crossover of a lead somwhere causing that, little bit of dampness under bonnet from sitting over night causing correct conditions for sparks to jump maybe, as it heats up moisture gone, just a thought.
 
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