Mongrel 2a

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Trainmaker

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Derby
I'm seeking advice on the refurbishment of the powertrain on my series 2a, which has an early series 3 gearbox and 200TDI disco engine.
It had serious gear change issues, so I've had the gearbox reconditioned (plenty of bits came out with the oil). I checked the clutch disc which appears ok and the flywheel surface is acceptable.
I've refitted the box, but the clutch seems to be dragging.
I've therefore withdrawn the box once more, double checked the operation and installation of the release bearing and mechanism, then reinstalled the box.
I've fitted new Master and slave cylinders and fully bled the hydraulics as well as re-set the pedal height and master cylinder push rod clearance.
The feel of the clutch mechanism is better than ever!
However, the clutch is still dragging and certainly engaging 1st when stationary is difficult which indicated clutch plate. Therefore I'm tempted to change the full clutch and release bearing.

However, I just wonder if the problem has been caused by the initial conversion, mating of the 200TDI to the series 3 box. Could it be that the slave cylinder push rod is the wrong length?
 
Where is the biting point for the clutch? If it nearly at the end of the pedal travel i.e. pedal almost fully out, you should be able to adjust the rod to improve it. This is assuming that all of the clutch components are ok and it is indeed fully bled.

Col
 
Thanks Col, I realise I was focused on the clutch operation and not the declutch bite point. Ill take another look! Ill let you know how I get on.
I'm satisfied that between bleeding the hydraulics, setting the pedal and master cylinder adjustment and clutch disk and plate problems all the bases are covered! So Ill keep going until it works!

Cheers.
 
Did you change the brass bush in the flywheel that the end of the gearbox shaft fits into?
If you take it apart again try the clutch plate on the gearbox shaft to ensure it slides along the splines properly.
With the clutch slave cylinder off and the pivot rod pushed in so that release bearing is against clutch plate , how much of the rod is protruding from memory about 1/2".
Some data from series 3 in attached file.
 

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  • Clutch.pdf
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Thanks Col, I realise I was focused on the clutch operation and not the declutch bite point. Ill take another look! Ill let you know how I get on.
I'm satisfied that between bleeding the hydraulics, setting the pedal and master cylinder adjustment and clutch disk and plate problems all the bases are covered! So Ill keep going until it works!

Cheers.
Did you change the brass bush in the flywheel that the end of the gearbox shaft fits into?
If you take it apart again try the clutch plate on the gearbox shaft to ensure it slides along the splines properly.
With the clutch slave cylinder off and the pivot rod pushed in so that release bearing is against clutch plate , how much of the rod is protruding from memory about 1/2".
Some data from series 3 in attached file.
 
Did you change the brass bush in the flywheel that the end of the gearbox shaft fits into?
If you take it apart again try the clutch plate on the gearbox shaft to ensure it slides along the splines properly.
With the clutch slave cylinder off and the pivot rod pushed in so that release bearing is against clutch plate , how much of the rod is protruding from memory about 1/2".
Some data from series 3 in attached file.
Thanks Ive fiddled arround with all tge adjustments and bleeding. So ill take a look. I had tried the plate on the shaft and it was ok but i didnt change the bush. Thanks for the info!
 
Cheers and well put! I'm coming to the same conclusion!
Having, tried just about everything (including following threads about short slave pushrod, which if was the case the piston would drop out).
I'm still of the opinion I'm not getting all the air out! I'll let you all know when I'm successful!! Thanks Duncan!
 
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