Mini restoration of my 75 Series 3

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Fitted the seat box, gearbox tunnel and floor plates today.
20180701_171645.jpg 20180701_171727.jpg 20180701_171751.jpg 20180701_174417.jpg

Norrie.
 
Is that a rubber hand brake gaiter as if it is you need to fit it going backwards into the void behind the seat box or it will tear very quickly.
 
Got the windscreen frame ready to be re-glazed. Cleaned up all the trim and glass etc. Will finish it tomorrow.
20180711_185948.jpg
Norrie
 
Is that a rubber hand brake gaiter as if it is you need to fit it going backwards into the void behind the seat box or it will tear very quickly.
Thanks for the tip, I have just fitted one and found the same as @norried that is was not as flexible as i had hoped.
Does reversing it cause any other problems?
 
Thanks for the tip, I have just fitted one and found the same as @norried that is was not as flexible as i had hoped.
Does reversing it cause any other problems?
No that is the way it is designed to be fitted. The quality of the rubbers is poor best option is to make one out of leather.
 

Attachments

  • handbrake gaiter.JPG
    handbrake gaiter.JPG
    39.9 KB · Views: 176
No that is the way it is designed to be fitted. The quality of the rubbers is poor best option is to make one out of leather.
Having turned it around so it is the correct way I now cannot release the handbrake! The rubber pushes it back on at least one click. I think leather would definitly be that way to go!
 
Well I've started work on the Landy again. That's the sides installed with new seals and the doors are on. I still need to rivet the roof back together before fitting that.
20180901_145604.jpg

Norrie.
 
Riveted the roof back together today. I was going to hire the proper rivet squeezer and hollow rivets but there was a 3 week waiting list. I managed to borrow my mates pneumatic riveter and just used solid rivets. My mate used to be an aircraft engineer so had skin pins to lign everything up before putting the rivets in. Anyway pretty please with the result.
I've still to tighten the sides and roof down properly but you get the idea.
20180909_163406.jpg 20180909_163411.jpg 20180909_163422.jpg 20180909_174012.jpg 20180909_190539.jpg 20180909_190551.jpg 20180909_190603.jpg

Norrie.
 
Glazed the door tops today. Not a hard job at all. Don't know why I've put it off for weeks.
The kit I got from Paddocks didn't include the seal between the glass but I've worked out I can fit it later. 20180910_160650.jpg 20180910_163537.jpg 20180910_165455.jpg 20180910_175118.jpg 20180910_175140.jpg
 
The finish is excellent for brush work. Any chance you could cover how you prepp'd, primed and painted? How much and how did you do the paint removal? What did you prime with? How many coats and what consistency did you then brush paint? Cheers.
 
Rubbed down with a DA sander with 320 grit. Etch primed, Undercoated usually 2 coats. Flattened back down with 600/800 grit and then 2 coats of gloss. Tried not to thin the paint but had trouble with the hot weather so thinned it about 10%.
It's not as good as it looks in the pics but it's food enough for me.

Norrie.
 
Glazed the windscreen today and finished bolting the roof down. Oh and before anyone says anything I'm going to change the bolts for shorter ones.
20180912_180929.jpg 20180912_180953.jpg
 
Oh and before anyone says anything I'm going to change the bolts for shorter ones.

Just fit them the other way around, may be a little fiddlier to install but will give a tidier finished appearance as you will have a uniform row of bolt heads and the nuts ans spare threads will be hidden by the roof gutter.
 
Back
Top