MIG welding kit - advice

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payydg

Well-Known Member
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3,907
Location
Aberdeenshire
Hello,

I was thinking of getting a MIG welder and starting the long process of learning how to weld with the plan that in the future (having been bitten by the land rover bug in a big way) I'll be able to do some of my own repairs or even undertake a project.

I was thinking of getting the Clarke 150TE turbo welder. Would this be suitable for chassis work as well?

What other items of kit would I need? A mask seems essential.

I have read that cleaning up the metal prior to welding is almost as important as the welding itself, what sort of tools are particularly good for this?

Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. i did a search but most of the info was about different types of MIG welders, which i found a bit confusing.

I’ll repay you all with photos of my inevitably terrible first attempts

D
 
Hello,

I was thinking of getting a MIG welder and starting the long process of learning how to weld with the plan that in the future (having been bitten by the land rover bug in a big way) I'll be able to do some of my own repairs or even undertake a project.

I was thinking of getting the Clarke 150TE turbo welder. Would this be suitable for chassis work as well?

What other items of kit would I need? A mask seems essential.

I have read that cleaning up the metal prior to welding is almost as important as the welding itself, what sort of tools are particularly good for this?

Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. i did a search but most of the info was about different types of MIG welders, which i found a bit confusing.

I’ll repay you all with photos of my inevitably terrible first attempts

D

Just ask Doc.......... He is a 2nd yr uni student and know's all about them things a real eggspert
 
Just ask Doc.......... He is a 2nd yr uni student and know's all about them things a real eggspert

Why don't you #### off back up your fat disabled arse.




Nothing wrong with a 150, I used a 130 to do chassis work with 3mm plate and the welds were spot on. Currently using a 190 and it ****es through most of the material I work with.
The 440 Butters one I also use will melt anything really……welded up some 8mm pieces with it the other day and they were perfect.


I'm able to test all my test welds on the denison too before you pipe up so do the world a favour and stop trolling because no one likes you
 
I've got a clarke machine, not a 150 te but i have used one it was/would be adequate for chassis work. sealey also do some good machines. find a local place to source gas from and practice on some scrap/cutoffs it helps a lot to get the material as clean as possible. i use flap discs on the angle grinder to clean up the steel they leaves a much smoother finish.
Sam;)
 
Why don't you #### off back up your fat disabled arse.




Nothing wrong with a 150, I used a 130 to do chassis work with 3mm plate and the welds were spot on. Currently using a 190 and it ****es through most of the material I work with.
The 440 Butters one I also use will melt anything really……welded up some 8mm pieces with it the other day and they were perfect.


I'm able to test all my test welds on the denison too before you pipe up so do the world a favour and stop trolling because no one likes you

ok, great thanks.
 
I've got a clarke machine, not a 150 te but i have used one it was/would be adequate for chassis work. sealey also do some good machines. find a local place to source gas from and practice on some scrap/cutoffs it helps a lot to get the material as clean as possible. i use flap discs on the angle grinder to clean up the steel they leaves a much smoother finish.
Sam;)

Thanks Sam. Think i can borrow an angle grinder so ill get some discs
 
I've got a clarke machine, not a 150 te but i have used one it was/would be adequate for chassis work. sealey also do some good machines. find a local place to source gas from and practice on some scrap/cutoffs it helps a lot to get the material as clean as possible. i use flap discs on the angle grinder to clean up the steel they leaves a much smoother finish.
Sam;)

Flap discs are a gift from above :p

ok, great thanks.

The fan cooled ones are decent, I used the 130 for about 8 hours on and off doing a chassis one day and it held up fine without cutting out.

Make sure you don't use flux though if not you'll have a lot of fun grinding back welds as it makes a right mess.

Pub gas is good enough, less mess than flux when it comes to spatter I find and the welds are nicer with higher penetration
 
Why don't you #### off back up your fat disabled arse.




Nothing wrong with a 150, I used a 130 to do chassis work with 3mm plate and the welds were spot on. Currently using a 190 and it ****es through most of the material I work with.
The 440 Butters one I also use will melt anything really……welded up some 8mm pieces with it the other day and they were perfect.


I'm able to test all my test welds on the denison too before you pipe up so do the world a favour and stop trolling because no one likes you

Doc never said a thing about the machine he was asking about 1 way or the other. Just said you was the eggspert, was giving you a complement.
Just look at all the eggspert advice you just gave.:clap2::clap2::clap2:

You got knappie rash today?
 
I was thinking of getting a MIG welder and starting the long process of learning how to weld with the plan that in the future (having been bitten by the land rover bug in a big way) I'll be able to do some of my own repairs or even undertake a project.

I was thinking of getting the Clarke 150TE turbo welder. Would this be suitable for chassis work as well?
Yes no problem

What other items of kit would I need? A mask seems essential.
Defo a mask and gloves

I have read that cleaning up the metal prior to welding is almost as important as the welding itself, what sort of tools are particularly good for this?
Very important to clean up the area you are working on.. Get a grinder with wire brush and grinding disks as well as sanding disks.

Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. i did a search but most of the info was about different types of MIG welders, which i found a bit confusing.
Some collages do a course on welding

I’ll repay you all with photos of my inevitably terrible first attempts
Best of luck it's not magic but a bit of practise and you will soon pick it up.
 
Flap discs are a gift from above :p



The fan cooled ones are decent, I used the 130 for about 8 hours on and off doing a chassis one day and it held up fine without cutting out.

Make sure you don't use flux though if not you'll have a lot of fun grinding back welds as it makes a right mess.

Pub gas is good enough, less mess than flux when it comes to spatter I find and the welds are nicer with higher penetration

Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is flux? does it work in the same way flux does for soldering?

Thanks for all the help
 
Doc never said a thing about the machine he was asking about 1 way or the other. Just said you was the eggspert, was giving you a complement.
Just look at all the eggspert advice you just gave.:clap2::clap2::clap2:

You got knappie rash today?

No you just take it upon yourself to try and **** me off or insult me at every chance you get wether it be related to the thread or not.

We both know you're being a sarcastic arse





And just for reference by disabled I meant american as its the same thing before some PC nonce pipes up about me slagging off people in wheelchairs etc :doh:
 
The clarke 150te is adequate and trusty, my mig is a ERP 150 turbo (re-badged sealey) and it does the job for me although I use my arc welder if the steel is thick enough without burning through. As for a mask, true fusion will do a reasonable one (variable shade with spare lenses for about £30.)

Good on yer for having a go yourself.
 
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I don't think this is breaking the rules:

MIG Welding Forum

There is a wealth of knowledge on there, and the members are really happy to help a noob out.

I ended up with a GYS Smartmig from weldequip (Mig welding forum sponsors), good reviews and it uses a euro torch, which means replacement parts etc are easy to get.

Steve from weldequip is really good, give him a call and he will give you plenty of good advice. I was a little unsure and he was only too happy to give good advice.

Not pimping them out, but I think good customer service stories should be passed on.
 
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