MHM Lecky fan fitting in piccies

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Sean said:
i can't remember how the series cooling work, can't see it being any diff the me 110

water wunt flow through yer rad untill it gets hot enough to open yer thermostat - water then flows through yer rad (so it's gonna be right hot on the top hose) - it cools as it goes through yer rad so the bott hose is gonna be much cooler - if the temp of the water coming outta the bott of yer rad is simillar to that going in, either yer rad isnt doing it's job, or is maxed out - thens the time when yer sensor should switch on yer leccy fan and help yer rad
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no no no! - yu is thinkin freelander crap ideas - yu want to regulate the MAXIMUM temp - ie that of the cyl head/top hose - not the cooling efficiency of the radiator.

for example - top rad hose at 110 - boiling water - vapour locks in cyl head - nasty noises - brand new rad - coolant at bottom of rad = 80deg - nizencool - no fan omn - bang!

top rad hose at 90 - hot water - fan switches on - cools rad - coolant at bottom of rad = 80deg - nizencool - no fan on - bang! if the return water is a bit cool - it will just shut the thermostat agin :D:D:D
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
as i understand it - the hottest water comes out the top hose - so the fan switch needs to be in there.
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There is a school of thought which says that as the water is at it's hottest when leaving the engine that is where the temp sensor should be. But in reality you want to control the temperature of the water entering the engine not leaving. As this just makes the fan run almost permanently. So by the time the water has flowed through the rad it should have cooled enough not to need a fan in all but the most strenuous/hot driving conditions. So which ever hose is carrying the cooled water back to the engine is the best one to fit it too.
 
bolix - try tellin that to 1.8 Hippoo owners - i will risk running the engine a bit to cool - NEVER risk running an engine too hot! Anyway the fan doesnt normally come on in usual use - I have only needed to switch it on when stuck in traffic for mor than 5 minutes.

critically it depends when the fan switch operates.
 
redhand said:
There is a school of thought which says that as the water is at it's hottest when leaving the engine that is where the temp sensor should be. But in reality you want to control the temperature of the water entering the engine not leaving. As this just makes the fan run almost permanently. So by the time the water has flowed through the rad it should have cooled enough not to need a fan in all but the most strenuous/hot driving conditions. So which ever hose is carrying the cooled water back to the engine is the best one to fit it too.
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yep that's exactly how i see it

but if yer fan doesnt come on yer gotta very hot engine hmmmmmm
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
i tried the switch into a few plumbing fitting whilst at the shop - it dint fit any - close but not exatly the same - which is why i went fur soldering.
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They'll often sell inserts that convert one thread size to another As I said if yer ok on the soldering side then crack on. but if someone's reading this and thinks bugger I can't solder don't despair take your sensor and find a threaded adaptor that'll let you use it in a machined tee.
 
one of the probs with the hippoo and similar "monitor the cooler side" systems is that when the water boils, it turns to steam - yu then end up with air going passed the temp sensor - air is a worse conductor of heat than water - yu ask 1.8k owners who have had HGF - in a very high number of cases - the temp guage has not moved off of normal!
 
interesting - i think this is the critical bit ....

"IMHO both locations are valid, just the switching temps would be different. Another common location for these intermotor temp switches on V8's is in thermostat housing, again a slightly different temp switch would be required."

As the switch on the peugeot is on the top of the radiator, that is where I fitted mine.

nuvva point - is it just me? -on that link - is the fan blowing air out thru the front - it looks like its mounted the wrong side of the rad?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
one of the probs with the hippoo and similar "monitor the cooler side" systems is that when the water boils, it turns to steam - yu then end up with air going passed the temp sensor - air is a worse conductor of heat than water - yu ask 1.8k owners who have had HGF - in a very high number of cases - the temp guage has not moved off of normal!
Click to expand...

but as a thermostat starts to open at about 80deg vapor lock shouldn't be a problem for most people. Unless they drive an engine with a crap cooling system design which causes boiling inside the engine regardless of radiator or fan configuration I:E an hippo
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
nuvva point - is it just me? -on that link - is the fan blowing air out thru the front - it looks like its mounted the wrong side of the rad?
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as it appens i'm just checking to see if they do a blow and push version - not that i can see what the diff would be cos that's got me think mine might be on arse about face now

hmmm mine pulls air, if it was mounted on the front it'd push - can't see what the diff is
 
Sean said:
as it appens i'm just checking to see if they do a blow and push version - not that i can see what the diff would be cos that's got me think mine might be on arse about face now

hmmm mine pulls air, if it was mounted on the front it'd push - can't see what the diff is
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not as simple as that - look at the blade design? - it is designed to be most efficient turning in one direction only. and if you have a cowled fan that means it can only fit one side of the rad.

I went fur a push fan - ie front mounted with cowl as it also protects the radiator - i good idea i thort if yu go thro mud - yu dont wanna block yo rad do ya?

yu wudnt be the furst peep to fit a fan and find it is trying to blow air forwards thro a radiator - a bit of a nightmare when travellling:eek:.
 
Sean said:
as it appens i'm just checking to see if they do a blow and push version - not that i can see what the diff would be cos that's got me think mine might be on arse about face now

hmmm mine pulls air, if it was mounted on the front it'd push - can't see what the diff is
Click to expand...

It depends which way the fan is facing say the fan is in front of the rad and it's mounted with the motor facing the front of the car pushing air thru the rad if you mount it in the engine bay then it will be pulling air from the engine bay which will be hot air.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
I went fur a push fan - ie front mounted with cowl as it also protects the radiator - i good idea i thort if yu go thro mud - yu dont wanna block yo rad do ya?
Click to expand...

i'd have prolly gone the other way, wanting to protect the fan motor/bearings - but then if you get yer fans froma scrappy it's not the end of the world if they get trashed
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
i reckon it is critical component time - which is more important - the fan motor or the radiator? hence my decision.
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agread

as it happens i'm now orf outside to backflush me rad in the hope that it's sort me "getting overly hot when booting it over 60" issue
 
no not really, it's fine pottering around but if i drive it at over 60 for much more than five minutes, or with the turbo actually doing some work it creaps into the red and then kicks the kenlowe in - slowing down will bring the temp back to normal again

it's got a new thermostat, rads been flushed, i'm pretty sure there's no air locks in it (but i'm never sure how to ensure there isnt)

i woke up this morning wondering if it's lost oil over the last week, it hardly ever uses any oil but i'll check that when the fog clears

wonder if it's it's possible for the impeller to come loose on the water pump shaft - maybe the rad if partially blocked and i'm only get the use of just a part of it ? - just after a hard run the vertical section under the top hose does get hot all the way down the base and as you go across the rad it is cooler (i think as you'd expect)

still a bit confused
 
dont the Kenlowe cool it?

maybe if the Kenlowe only cuts in when the temp gets in the red - yu need to consider repositioning the thermo switch - as per previous discussions - unless yu can alter the switching temp - in whuch case turn it down a notch.

impellers can become loose - but its very uncommon.

One of the tricks used to clear crud out of the cooling system is to put in a dose of dishwasher liquid (gotta be liquid, not powder) . Yu dont want it in too long, coz its corrosive - but its damn good at clearing out crud and oilly deposits n stuff - not blockages, but it cleans the system really well.
 
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