Freelander 1 mg tf 135 engine swap

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PRO

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Hello, I am just window shopping for the moment.
I do have a ramp free on my mate's garage, and might have to change the ird.
I am considering for no reason at all to upgrade the engine to tf's 135 (non vvc) as the engine is cheap enough also I can sell mine which is in very good condition.
I did manage to steal an tf135 allow manifold for 10 quid on auction.

So apart from engine, I believe the ecu needs to come off an mg and perhaps remove immobiliser?
I expect a straight fit on gearbox ird and all.

Also, another question is if I tf135 my engine would that actually work? I did find some info but did not get the clear picture.

Non vvc 135 allow manifold with new gaskets - checked
52mm Throttle body - checked

Camshafts - unchecked for now
Injectors - Are these much different? the manifold comes with injectors (did not get it yet)

On the exhaust side there is not much to do. If I decat, will lose delta pressure and the power I am hoping to gain, at least that is my understanding after doing some decat research, which is a shame cause those stainless decat pipes are very sexy and tempting.
 
The engine will fit no problem. The problem comes with the way that engine makes its power. To get the higher BHP, the cams use a longer duration profile, which reduces bottom end torque (not a problem on a 900Kg sports car), pushing the power up the rev range by quite a bit, not what you want on a 1.5 ton 4x4.

If you're going to be messing with programming ECUs and stuff, then either fit the VVC engine (my favourite K4), which gains bottom and top end power, or go for a turbo conversion, which makes a huge difference to power output.

As for the 135 engine, I'd not bother past fitting the inlet manifold and a tubular exhaust manifold and decent exhaust, with a performance CAT installed, as those will pretty much get you to 130 BHP after a re-map, without messing around with coding incorrect ECUs and engine swaps.
 
Thank you Nodge, figured indeed power at high revs is undesirable.
The only tubular exhaust I could find is muddy but is about 160 quid which is a big "investment" and not 100% sure will gain any hp.
Removing the center one might, with a bit of noise around.
As for the performance cat, can you give me an example please? Because mine has the cat in front of the engine very oddly shaped. Would bashing out the current cat still lose delta pressure?
 
You car will have 2 CATs fitted, one in the manifold, the other underneath the floor. Fitting a 4-2-1 manifold and a free flowing exhaust with a performance CAT will improve the whole RPM power range, once the ECU has been mapped to optimise the fuelling/ignition.

It's not uncommon to see a 10% power increase, especially on a production vehicle like the FL1, as the exhaust is built down to a price, not up to a flow rate.
 
That exhaust manifold linked isn't going to give you a worthwhile increase in torque. The primary pipes (runners) are too short, and they go straight from 4 to 1. These manifolds will only work at high RPM, which isn't what you need. You really need one that has longer primary pipes, which go from 4 to 2, then from 2 to 1 some distance away. Actually the early 1997-2000 1.8 FL1 manifold wasn't too bad a design, which could be used if you want to get something sorted on a tight budget.

The only performance CAT I've any experience of is one from Jetex. https://jetex.co.uk/product/4-e-marked-200-cell-catalyst-for-2-5-pipework/
These CATs will allow the free flow of gasses through the matrix, but still allow it to pass the MOT.
You then need to couple the CAT to an exhaust system with a couple of straight through silencers to keep noise to acceptable levels.
 
Is the 2000 manifold swappable? I know they have a 4 bolt thing, indeed on a budget don't want to spend too much really. Just whatever I can do myself and cheap for whatever gain.
 
PRO said:
Is the 2000 manifold swappable? I know they have a 4 bolt thing, indeed on a budget don't want to spend too much really.
Click to expand...
Yes. It'll fit on the engine without an issue. The flange it there to join the manifold top section, to the lower section, as it would be very hard fit it or remove it as one long assembly.
 
Item one is to YA vins. I can't see how this would fit, unless I have to put the whole exhaust?
I see the o2 sensor still fits there, luckily might work.

Can't find any yet anyway, will have to check breakings etc.

upload_2020-6-19_15-52-13.png
 
You replace the whole thing, not just the top section. The down pipes joint to the exhaust, under the engine.
 
thank Nodge looks like pre 2000 has only one cat, for some reasons those are rated with a few horsepower extra I suspect because of less emission standards, which makes sense somehow.
 
Any idea what is the pipe size on the petrol exhaust? I've been advised to put a cherry bomb, a much cheaper alternative to the 160 quid muddy one.
 
PRO said:
Any idea what is the pipe size on the petrol exhaust? I've been advised to put a cherry bomb, a much cheaper alternative to the 160 quid muddy one.
Click to expand...

A Cherry Bomb won't provide you with any real noise reduction, so should be avoided at all costs.

I fitted a decent straight through silencer to my TD4, which does actually silence the exhaust note considerably. I simply cut the original main silencer at it's joint with the pipe, and found a suitable straight through stainless steel silencer with a compatible input pipe.
20161205_092835.jpg
20161205_092916.jpg
 
Can you define please what compatible input pipe means? 2.5" perhaps?
Plenty of these on ebay for peanuts really.
I was thinking about cutting the end as well don't want any shiny tips and they have to curve and point downwards even on petrol, to avoid heat going to bumper mainly.
Here is what Klarius says regarding dimensions, not sure hot to interpret them:

upload_2020-6-21_20-53-1.png
 
PRO said:
Can you define please what compatible input pipe means? 2.5" perhaps?
Click to expand...

You have to measure it. ;)

The TD4 and V6 are about 60mm OD IIRC, but I'm sure the 1.8 is smaller, so measuring is the only way to get the correct size pipe.

The exhaust end needs to turn down, as it does with mine.
 
Well, the way that Klarius drawing has it, the back section of the LR189V mid silencer pipe is 50 mm external diameter, which fits inside of the 50.5 mm internal diameter of the LR174Q final silencer pipe. That system is for the 1.8 petrol three door. I would imagine the five door is slightly longer, possibly using a different mid section?
 
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