Radar1946
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Measurements for hole in floor to replace fuel pump
- Thread starter Radar1946
- Start date
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Radar1946
Active Member
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The 18" measurement should be 10". The tool to undo and retighten the fuel pump ring is made out of mild steel. The cutters are are what I used to cut the hole which gave a nice clean cut. Hope this is helpful
Endeleus
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Personally I didn't find it too difficult to drop the tank when I did mine, but I do like your custom pump ring tool.
Radar1946
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I would love to have dropped the tank, but I am seventy and suffer with vertigo so had to do it the best way I could.
It was not to bad a job with the right tools.
It was not to bad a job with the right tools.
norseman
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Good for you, I'm a year older & use a local Indie for anything other than basic checks these days
tomcat59alan
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You won't get vertigo lying on your back
. Always best to drop the tank so you can check/change the brake pipes that run behind the tank if they are still steel. I may be tempted to cut a hole next time as, on both of mine, I have changed the pipes. Nice and clear matey.
Radar1946
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Thanks, I just wanted to give back something for all the help I have been given on here.
.
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Very good it was too. Deserving of the Technical Section except there's a lot of disagreement about whether cutting the hole is blasphemous and missing rusted pipes could be the last mistake you make. The older cars don't have the issue as the brake pipes have a different route.
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There was a very good one in "How to" section. Unfortunately all the photos in it were lost when the forum rehash took place and the "Technical archive" came into being. I can never understand why Land rover did not fit an inspection hatch. Or maybe it had something to do with the latest design fad of making things as difficult as possible. The off to the dealers we go scenario, then hand them ridiculous amounts of money.
I need to replace the whole tank now that I have the cradle (made by Caledonian Sheet Metal for forty quid).
Anyone got a pic or five of the pipe routing for the tank?
I'm sure I've mentioned before, but when they removed the real petrol tank to fit the LPG bomb tanks, it looks as if something might be missing....
I could do the job tomorrow, but don't want to end up going nowhere because something is missing or broke when doing the change over.
BTW, it has the original pump, but a teeny wee hand made aluminium tank and when I release the fuel filler cap, there's a great suction of air, which leads me to believe there is a pipe missing or perhaps damaged.
Cheers all.
Sorry OP for taking up your post
Anyone got a pic or five of the pipe routing for the tank?
I'm sure I've mentioned before, but when they removed the real petrol tank to fit the LPG bomb tanks, it looks as if something might be missing....
I could do the job tomorrow, but don't want to end up going nowhere because something is missing or broke when doing the change over.
BTW, it has the original pump, but a teeny wee hand made aluminium tank and when I release the fuel filler cap, there's a great suction of air, which leads me to believe there is a pipe missing or perhaps damaged.
Cheers all.
Sorry OP for taking up your post
RubyRR
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The same has been done to mine, much to my disgrace and relief. The thing is, what will happen if you go wading? I haven't come up with a sure-fire way to seal it back up again.
The best I can suggest is cut a bit of metal the same shape as the hole, but an inch bigger all round.
Then, having previously purchased a tube of Tiger Seal (black or white, up to you), insert said tube into your mastic gun (silicone gun), attach the nozzle and cut it to a hole about 6 or 8mm. Pump it round the hole in the floor, stick the metal over it and place a weight on it. Leave for 12hrs.
If required you could use self tapping self drilling screws 12mm and using a battery drill, place two on each flat edge. Once it has drilled, place a dab of Tiger seal under the head before tightening down.
I use this stuff after drilling holes in the roof of vans for mounting lights and what not. Drill the hole, squeeze some Tiger seal in the hole, place bolts, put a clart (Scottish for a blob or mess of some sticky substance) on the bolt head and once all is tight, do another blob on the outside of the roof and the inside. Never had a leak yet. Awesome stuff, but messy. Wear rubber gloves...
O Bife
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From what year did the brake hoses "change" location?
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- Preston Lancs.
From VIN number VA346794. That would be manufacturing year 1997 and on.
O Bife
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Thanks Wammers,
By any chance, would you know roughly where these brake hoses/pipes run. By that I mean looking at the photo, along which line are they; A-B, B-C, C-D or D-A?
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Thanks Wammers,
By any chance, would you know roughly where these brake hoses/pipes run. By that I mean looking at the photo, along which line are they; A-B, B-C, C-D or D-A?
Nowhere near that. They both run along the O/S chassis inner leg. One goes to the O/S brake and the other one goes up along the chassis leg and over to the N/S through a channel in the body which it is clipped to. Then out and forwards along the top of the chassis leg to the N/S brake. Getting at them, in particular the one that goes across, with tank in position is next to impossible.
O Bife
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So, does that mean that cutting the access hole/panel to the measurements in the original photo of this post there should not be any danger in accidentally cutting into said brake hoses.
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- Preston Lancs.
Not a chance, although there are two vent pipes that can suffer if you are not careful. See photo of cut. Rubber vent pipe and plastic one to lower right of cutout.
