magic leak of cat****, cat sitting on flywheel Xmember

You do get over excited dont you Phil, thats twice now, must be the German influence!
I must have read your superb description of the symptoms wrong, we all make mistakes and in the uk its called tolerance of our neighbours:doh:
What series model do you run?



Lynall

lynall said:

You do get over excited dont you Phil, thats twice now, must be the German influence!
I must have read your superb description of the symptoms wrong, we all make mistakes and in the uk its called tolerance of our neighbours:doh:
What series model do you run?



Lynall

Click to expand...

It's a Series 3, with factory recon GB and 200Di

I'll be outside now taking off the driveshafts and trying to slide it back. Somehow. Dont want to take off the TB, or seatbox... I've got small hands, maybe it'll work somehow

I can say that i run 85/140 oil in my s2 gearbox and it has virtually no leaks.
Used to pee everywhere with ep90 in it, maybe worth a go certainly a lot less hassle than taking box out.
Some one on the s2 forum was saying it might be worth running this thicker oil in the gearbox on di/tdi conversions to help the boxs along with shock loading etc


Lynall

but then you have over heating of oil after a few miles

Well, job finished.
Did it yesterday in 13 (!) hours. (Lots of rusty bolts, 2h for an idea taken from ancient egypt. **** egypt, nearly broken my seat box)

General Procedure was using a chain hoist mounted on the ceiling to lift the GB and moving the vehicle forward to clear.

Preface:
I drained all boxes beforehand, but you dont need to do all, only main GB if you do the seal as I did. If you're doing clutch or release bearing, no need to drain anything. Easy job that way.

Procedure:
Remove centre seat
Remove floors, tunnel cover, bellhousing cover
Remove gearstick at GB and bellhousing cover (not taking gearstick assembly apart)
(Disconnect O/D linkage, remove O/D, remove linkage)
Remove clutch slave cylinder
Push car so that chain hoist hool is about middle of GB assembly (GB & TB)
Disconnect front Propshaft at T/B, let it rest on flywheel X-member
Disconnect rear Propshaft at rear Diff and place rear part of propshaft on something so that it doesnt rest on the X-member
Mark rear prop at sliding joint (front and rear part relation) should it come apart
Remove the 4 bolts holding the GB mountings to chassis (so that the rubbers are still attached to GB), leave one left and one right unscrewed inside to keep it stable and safe
Chock wheels
Release Handbrake
Disconnect Handbrake at the last linkage (the one going to the drum through a rubber. Linkage is a ?7/16 "pin" with spring and safety pin
Remember how this "pin" comes out/in (esp. the spring...)
Place strap under gearbox (must have ratched) and TB through centre seat hole (make sure it wont move)
Place strap under GB "around" bell housing (so that this strap cant move to the rear!!! there are two protruding elements, I'll try and make a photo)
Hook straps into hook of chain hoist, do not lift yet
Check that engine hoist is in front of CoG of GB assembly
Pre-tighten straps, the rear one more
Lift gearbox and remove GB mounts left and right
Place block of wood beneatch flywheel cover
Lower to intial position
Release Nuts bell housing to flywheel cover as per manual (slowly and evenly)
Remove Nuts
Push car forward so that hoist is behing CoG of GB, hoist chain should be at about 10deg (remove chocks, push, put chocks in place etc etc)
Make sure the straps take the weight of the GB evenly, play with em so you can:
Wiggle the gearbox off the flywheel housing (the 10deg backwards of the hoist help a lot!)
Make sure the Rear propshaft stays put on your block or something.
After some wiggling your box assembly should be free
Lower/Lift it to get the front UJ of the rear propshaft into the hole in the X-member behind the GB to gain one more inch
Push GB back (push car forward!)



Get some small hands to unscrew the seal housing, or change clutch, do whatever you wanted to in the flywheel / bell housing. I had enough room to withdraw the seal housing easily without fiddling!

Refitting:
Reverse instructions



Please, if something is unclear or you want detailed information, let me know. I did not find anything anywhere, on how and how well you can do this. I found that without removing the seatbox or anything else, you can change the clutch or oil seal easily, without having an engine crane. I had to remove my hardtop to gain access with my chain hoist, but the chain hoist was available, and an engine crane wasnt (chain hoist is cheaper than engine crane...)

jamesmartin said:

but then you have over heating of oil after a few miles

Click to expand...

Well its been in there for a few thousand miles now with no problems, certainly makes gears 1 and 2 easier to double clutch on the down change and you do a lot of down changing on the 2 litre diesel


Lynall

Castrol recomend it for "heavy use" vehicles. Ie off-roaders.

you put want you want in too ,they run and last longer on ep90 baulkrings are designed for that .wouldnt take much notice of castrol as there recommened engine oil a few years ago was **** ,you could allways tell when stripping engine ,oil has 2 jobs lubrication and too remove heat too thick oil doesnt do that very well ep 90 thick enough as it is