- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
A soak in Lemon juice will clean the contacts. But it MUST be rinsed off properly after soaking.
MAF Fault that isn't the MAF....
- Thread starter Doo
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Vinegar and salt would certainly enhance the corrosionIsopropyl alcohol is good or Aeroclene 50.
Seem to recall some mix to clean the green off and then a rinse with bicarb to neutralise it afterwards.
Got the codes read again and it showed I still have a MAF fault, but it was joined by a TPS fault (which explained the inability to run above idle).
Caused by a broken wire at the plug of all things
Bloody cowboys The scum from Stirling who installed the LPG system back in the day (scum because they hacked holes under the rear seat, the filth ) made a royal mess of the wiring too, routing it in such a manner that some parts are tangled up and strangling other wires and the only way I'll be able to fix it is to remove all the LPG injectors on the left bank So, a lot of wires are too tight...
I let in a couple of extra inches...
All taped up and hidden once more...
The last photo also shows how I got rid (ages ago) of the stupid design of aluminium watch strap and "O" ring affair in favour of a glued (Tiger Seal) connection which did away with an air leak.
Anyway, as you see I fixed it and off she went like a prized stallion
Still got the MAF fault though, so she's likely still running a base map.
The super reader showed several possibilities including fuse F2 so tomorrow I'll mostly check that, but I'm not convinced I rather think it's the ECU got a burned diode after the wet watery water that did the grot on the plug shorted something out. Anyone got a spare ECU then?
Caused by a broken wire at the plug of all things
Bloody cowboys
The scum from Stirling who installed the LPG system back in the day (scum because they hacked holes under the rear seat, the filth ) made a royal mess of the wiring too, routing it in such a manner that some parts are tangled up and strangling other wires and the only way I'll be able to fix it is to remove all the LPG injectors on the left bank So, a lot of wires are too tight...I let in a couple of extra inches...
All taped up and hidden once more...
The last photo also shows how I got rid (ages ago) of the stupid design of aluminium watch strap and "O" ring affair in favour of a glued (Tiger Seal) connection which did away with an air leak.
Anyway, as you see I fixed it and off she went like a prized stallion
Still got the MAF fault though, so she's likely still running a base map.
The super reader showed several possibilities including fuse F2 so tomorrow I'll mostly check that, but I'm not convinced
I rather think it's the ECU got a burned diode after the wet watery water that did the grot on the plug shorted something out. Anyone got a spare ECU then? 
Hi mate
as a side note u can get T pieces for wiring conduit so can join looms , like I’ve done on top of my battery
hope that’s not telling u how to suck eggs but just in case u haven’t seen them
Fingers crossed you’ll be able to track down the elusive fault
how have u found those clear sleeves plse , must admit never been keen on them myself
many thks
as a side note u can get T pieces for wiring conduit so can join looms , like I’ve done on top of my battery
hope that’s not telling u how to suck eggs but just in case u haven’t seen them
Fingers crossed you’ll be able to track down the elusive fault
how have u found those clear sleeves plse , must admit never been keen on them myself
many thks
I've only been using them for less than a year, but so far they are ok!
I use a small gas torch to heat the solder and shrink the tube (& glue) and it did take a few goes to get it just so...
Before that I was soldering wires and using heat shrink to seal a join.
These have surely cut repair time. And the car has been all over today (including my appointment with my psychologist) and performed beautifully.
Looks like I "do" need a new ECU though
I use a small gas torch to heat the solder and shrink the tube (& glue) and it did take a few goes to get it just so...
Before that I was soldering wires and using heat shrink to seal a join.
These have surely cut repair time. And the car has been all over today (including my appointment with my psychologist) and performed beautifully.
Looks like I "do" need a new ECU though
I've only been using them for less than a year, but so far they are ok!
I use a small gas torch to heat the solder and shrink the tube (& glue) and it did take a few goes to get it just so...
Before that I was soldering wires and using heat shrink to seal a join.
These have surely cut repair time. And the car has been all over today (including my appointment with my psychologist) and performed beautifully.
Looks like I "do" need a new ECU though
cheers mate , must admit I still solder and use heatshrink , found using the conduit tees very good so the wires are all kept neat and tidy along with keeping them away from heat etc
oh blimey , just what u need then in having to get a new ecu , fingers crossed it’s not , know u can feel like pulling ur hair out at times with electrical faults
hope ur meeting went ok today buddy
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I've only been using them for less than a year, but so far they are ok!
I use a small gas torch to heat the solder and shrink the tube (& glue) and it did take a few goes to get it just so...
Before that I was soldering wires and using heat shrink to seal a join.
These have surely cut repair time. And the car has been all over today (including my appointment with my psychologist) and performed beautifully.
Looks like I "do" need a new ECU though
Might be worth checking the board in your ECU for cracked solder joints.
I opened it up and all joints intact.
However, I did find a furry bit on top of the board, where one of the affected pins goes down through the board and it was pretty much on top of what looked like a teeny diode or perhaps a resistor (it was hidden under the plastic).
I found a bunch of them on the bay so I bought one for £39:50 delivered. The part numbers matched NNN 100 660. At that price it's worth a punt.
I will of course keep you posted....
I was told earlier that the "new" ECU won't work without being re-programmed
Surely though, it's come off a THOR V8 with identical matching numbers so it "should" be plug & play...
I imagine the fuel trims may need resetting though.
Can the guru's confirm or deny if this is the case that the same stupid arse who designed this system all wrong would have thought it would be hilarious to need a replacement fuel ECU reprogrammed? I thought only Rover's had a volatile memory
Surely though, it's come off a THOR V8 with identical matching numbers so it "should" be plug & play...
I imagine the fuel trims may need resetting though.
Can the guru's confirm or deny if this is the case that the same stupid arse who designed this system all wrong would have thought it would be hilarious to need a replacement fuel ECU reprogrammed? I thought only Rover's had a volatile memory
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I was told earlier that the "new" ECU won't work without being re-programmed
Surely though, it's come off a THOR V8 with identical matching numbers so it "should" be plug & play...
I imagine the fuel trims may need resetting though.
Can the guru's confirm or deny if this is the case that the same stupid arse who designed this system all wrong would have thought it would be hilarious to need a replacement fuel ECU reprogrammed? I thought only Rover's had a volatile memory
The engine ECU would need your EMS code but I think the Thor is a rolling code and should sync. Never tried though. You say this is just the fuel part?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The ECU will have to be synced to the BECM with diagnostics.I was told earlier that the "new" ECU won't work without being re-programmed
Surely though, it's come off a THOR V8 with identical matching numbers so it "should" be plug & play...
I imagine the fuel trims may need resetting though.
Can the guru's confirm or deny if this is the case that the same stupid arse who designed this system all wrong would have thought it would be hilarious to need a replacement fuel ECU reprogrammed? I thought only Rover's had a volatile memory
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,018
- Location
- highlands of Scotland
Hi Andy ,,Don't shoot me . but if the new ecu, becm comes from a high mileage car ,n yours is low will it change yours to a higher mileage ,,,Just a thought...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,887
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The engine ECU will not change the mileage either in the BECM or the message centre.Hi Andy ,,Don't shoot me . but if the new ecu, becm comes from a high mileage car ,n yours is low will it change yours to a higher mileage ,,,Just a thought...
