Mad LWB disco idea (Now ultimate overlanding disco thread of rubbish

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300bhp/ton said:
You’d want to triple check it is road legal. So many modded LR’s aren’t. That should almost certainly be on a Q plate to be road legal.

edit:
Based on the listing I’d suspect not road legal. It also seems to be £22,000 over priced.
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Yes I agree a modified chassis/body shell will have to be on a Q plate also its got an unsellable price tag.
 
I think this would suit the needs of the op......No need to get lost in a sea of dvla paper work.
Kinda fugly tho..
Land rover Discovery Ambulance Camper Project | eBay

s-l1600.jpg
 
Thanks guys, yes, have seen both of those one ebay. Not too keen on the 6x6 (built or bought) due to expense and complexity, as well as a gigantic turning circle. I like a ambulance, but I think it may go for a number beyond my budget, its probably much more valuable to someone as a camper than as a thing to chop up into a double cab. Also, in the unlikely event that a rear tailshaft is snapped, I bet its impossible to get a new one.
Ive seen a d1 for sale with a d2 body on it, does this mean that the body mounts (at least the 6 front-most) are the same? I think im right in saying that the d2 has a much less rust-prone body, with the added bonus of slightly better doorhandles and lights on the facelift. Driveline is irrelevant as that would come from the 130 if going the body swap route. If going the chassis swap route I would go for a D1, or at least a D2 with a CDL. Engine wise, ide rather not deal with any extra electronics if possible, and Im thinking a OM606 might be a nice fit further down the line. I think I remember reading that this is easier with the 200tdi (LT77) than the 300tdi/td5 (r380) although I may be wrong.
Will read through those threads shortly.
Thanks!
 
Without wishing to be patronising, do you have an actual goal for what it is intended to be used for?
If so, that should guide what you do.
At the moment I am a bit confused as to whether you want a LR you can sleep in, an out and out camper, an expedition vehicle or something else.
I note that others are now also saying, "go for the 130 chassis". I could not agree more.
https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehicles
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Not too keen on the 6x6 (built or bought) due to expense and complexity,
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It's not much more cost and work than your proposing...read up on chassis mods as buying a 130 with V5 and then altering it to suit a Disco body thats been stretched is a waste of money as when you get to mot you've got questions to answer and has said before will have to be inspected and will result in a Q plate...
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
So, Im a newbie, this could be in the wrong place, if so, move it.
Anyway, after doing some shopping for a new toy, I tried a defender, too cramped in the shoulder area. I tried a RRC, not enough headroom, so I looked for a disco. Perfect one came up, 3.9 V8i, manual, 86k miles, decent enough condition, no rust, lovely. Bought for £2100 with a set of terra firma shocks in the boot. Superb.
So having owned it for a few months, I have only 2 complaints. Its thirsty. 14mpg, and its on standard size AT tyres. The only other complaint I have is that the boot isnt quite as big as I thought, and its not big enough to sleep in with the seats folded, although thats not an issue, Ive got a tent.
So, now we get to the meaty bit of this post. How could I make it bigger? Probably turning it into a double cab pickup. So as for making the chassis longer, I could chop the chassis, extend it, voila - what process do I need to go through to make it road legal?
Alternative option, use a defender chassis, probably a 130. So my question is, do the body mounts line up? (Not the 2 furthest back, because the body would be chopped, removing the rear side window)
Also, is it easier to get a 130 and swap the body, or swap the chassis of the disco? And does it make a difference which 130 chassis I use (tdi, td5, etc)
As for which engine Ill use, Im currently looking at OM606 stuff, but open to suggestions. The V8 is powerful enough, but thirsty, the tdis Ive been in are slow.
Also, does it matter if I use a D1, D2 or RRC body?
Thanks!
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Are you going to do a lot of off-road driving?
kevstar said:
I think this would suit the needs of the op......No need to get lost in a sea of dvla paper work.
Kinda fugly tho..
Land rover Discovery Ambulance Camper Project | eBay

s-l1600.jpg
Click to expand...
It wonder if that's built one RR LSE frame? Whatever it is, l like it.
 
Some very good points there. What will it be used for? Well, everything really. Hopefully some long trips one day, but also a fair bit of offroading, occasionally towing stuff, going to the shops, carrying big things, camping trips etc etc. All the good stuff. Not a serious competitive offroad buggy, just something like a double cab landcruiser, a defender 130, but more comfortable, less farmer-y and more disco-y, if that makes sense.
Another thought - axles. This is going to be 30% longer than a disco, its going to have a decently large lift with decently large tyres, so some wider axles might be on the table. Certainly the strongest, as its going to be heavy. I know that D1 axles are the same as RRC and defender, but something tells me.that the defender 130 and hi cap have stronger ones? Also D2 and P38 axles, might they be worth fitting? In short, widest, strongest LR axles, what do they come off?
My current plans are starting to look more like a defender 130 frankenstein with a disco body and bigger everything, should certainly be a monster....
Edit: just read the very useful link posted above. Will keep original chassis and steering assembly (I presume that D1 and defender are the same?) And probably transmission (and probably engine)
Also, with "original engine" does that mean the exact engine it came from the factory with, or just the same engine (i.e. can I put a replacement identical engine if the original explodes?)
Thanks!
 
Why not consider a p38 or even an L322 or Disco3?

All likely easily in budget. And all bigger than a Disco 1 and more comfy than a Defender.

If you really are set on a double cab pickup. Look at a Ford Ranger or similar or maybe even a US market pickup like a Dodge Ram.
 
Shippers said:
It's not much more cost and work than your proposing...read up on chassis mods as buying a 130 with V5 and then altering it to suit a Disco body thats been stretched is a waste of money as when you get to mot you've got questions to answer and has said before will have to be inspected and will result in a Q plate...
Click to expand...
Oddly, if you had a 130 (not just a chassis, but an entire road legal registered one). You could fit a Disco body or any other body and not need to get an IVA/SVA or worry about it’s legality.

However it would likely cost quite a lot to do. And ultimately massively devalue the vehicle.
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Some very good points there. What will it be used for? Well, everything really. Hopefully some long trips one day, but also a fair bit of offroading, occasionally towing stuff, going to the shops, carrying big things, camping trips etc etc. All the good stuff. Not a serious competitive offroad buggy, just something like a double cab landcruiser, a defender 130, but more comfortable, less farmer-y and more disco-y, if that makes sense.
Another thought - axles. This is going to be 30% longer than a disco, its going to have a decently large lift with decently large tyres, so some wider axles might be on the table. Certainly the strongest, as its going to be heavy. I know that D1 axles are the same as RRC and defender, but something tells me.that the defender 130 and hi cap have stronger ones? Also D2 and P38 axles, might they be worth fitting? In short, widest, strongest LR axles, what do they come off?
My current plans are starting to look more like a defender 130 frankenstein with a disco body and bigger everything, should certainly be a monster....
Edit: just read the very useful link posted above. Will keep original chassis and steering assembly (I presume that D1 and defender are the same?) And probably transmission (and probably engine)
Also, with "original engine" does that mean the exact engine it came from the factory with, or just the same engine (i.e. can I put a replacement identical engine if the original explodes?)
Thanks!
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2 things.
1/ "What will it be used for? Well, everything really. Hopefully some long trips one day, but also a fair bit of offroading, occasionally towing stuff, going to the shops, carrying big things, camping trips etc etc. All the good stuff. Not a serious competitive offroad buggy, just something like a double cab landcruiser, a defender 130, but more comfortable, less farmer-y and more disco-y, if that makes sense."
Unfortunately no one vehicle can do "everything" if one could ever be made, we'd all be driving them and the company that made them would put all the others out of business. "offroading" with a long wheel base? No chance. "green laning"? Well maybe, but compromised. You just can't make the tight turns and the chassis will touch when going over pointy bits!
A 130 can be made very comfortable, comfort means two things. Comfortable on the road? This is down to suspension and tyres, coupled with a powerful ENOUGH engine, not mad power but enough to make driving it normally relatively effortless.
Comfort on the inside? This is down to good design and execution. Having enough and easily accessible storage, a proper bed that isn't too much of a complete pain to put up but doesn't waste space when it isn't needed. Etc, etc.
2/ As far as replacement engines are concerned, even the DVLA realise that it is possible and sometimes necessary to replace an engine. But if you are trying to get something registered it is often simpler, not easier, but simpler, to make one change at a time. It makes them less suspicious and bothered about it all.
So my advice would be to get the vehicle, put the engine you want in it, get it changed on the V5C. THEN make all the other mods and get it registered again as a modified vehicle, you'll then have the engine you wanted all along.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Why not consider a p38 or even an L322 or Disco3?

All likely easily in budget. And all bigger than a Disco 1 and more comfy than a Defender.

If you really are set on a double cab pickup. Look at a Ford Ranger or similar or maybe even a US market pickup like a Dodge Ram.
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I get the impresion the young buck is dreaming by his last post..what is his spannering like and workshop facilities as @Stanleysteamer pointed out..
 
Thanks for the suggestions, as to "why not get an x y z" well, I want something that is mechanically quite simple and tough, and it also needs to be manual and not LHD. Disco 3 and P38 arent quite big enough and certainly arent simple or tough enough, a bit too far the other way for me.
If I were to buy a defender 130 (complete whole truck with an MoT and everything, lets say that would cost anywhere between 6k and 16k) how much could I sell the bits I dont use from that for? Mainly the body (keeping the tub/tray though) and the stock springs, shocks, etc. I havnt got 15k to fork out for one, but I did see some shady ex-tree surgeon thing go for less than 5k a few months ago, MoT and all, so you never know. A D2 body is fairly cheap, almost free infact, because a D2 with a rotten chassis is what, £1500? Sell the engine and driveline and get most of that back.
Could the whole thing realistically be kept under say, 7 or 8k? I mean ideally it would be great to keep the whole thing under 5, but we all like to dream. I think if I aim to keep it under 7 or 8, realistically it should stay under 10. Not that Ive got 10k either, unless I get lucky with a scratch card.
 
Shippers said:
I get the impresion the young buck is dreaming by his last post..what is his spannering like and workshop facilities as @Stanleysteamer pointed out..
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Can't help but agree with this muchly.
As I know all too well, from kit car building, once you start modifying stuff, each problem has a knock on effect. You really do need facilities and some skills, as well as the ability to think out of the box.
To give just one stupid example, when building my last Pinto engined car, I decided to fit a decent exhaust, and a set of exhaust headers instead of using the standard manifold. I bought a standard, after market kit, a PECO or summat.
Something like this
https://hpemotorsport.co.uk/shop/exhausts/pinto-4-2-1-exhaust-manifold/
The primaries wouldn't fit as they were, so they had to be shortened by an inch each, then after the collector from 4 to 2, the two pipes had to be rotated through 90 degrees and then back again to pass under the chassis member.
And once I got the exhaust dead right I realised the steering column etc would no longer go where it was supposed to go. On Kit cars you usually have to lengthen the steering connections but this time I thought for a while I was actually going to have to take it outside of the engine compartment then back in again, OR have to have a 90 degree joint. I managed to modify it in the end but it was a real sod to do.
And this is TINY stuff compared to bodywork, seats, dash, soft top, etc etc. (Mind you I never build a kit as standard, that would be boring!)
 
So many things to respond to, excellent!
130/LWB for offroad use. Perfectly capable for what I think Ill be doing, its hardly a low slung limo, plus a big lift may be used
Comfort - my disco is comfortable enough, the springs are yellow, I think this means that they are heavy duty springs. Either way, the back is a bit bouncy when its empty, but very comfy when its full of people/stuff. As for cabin layout, more than adequate, only minor issue is you cant use the low range/difflock leaver and the cupholder at the same time. How will I cope?
Comfort, as it relates to power - youre spot on. My V8i makes I think 180hp (when it was new) and its very nice to drive, in terms of going up hills, overtaking, etc. I think much less than this, particularly in a heavy 130 with a heavier body, wouldnt be so good. Mine also doesnt have ARBs, so it rolls alot, but then it is a big 4x4, so thats fine.
In short, a defender 130 would be great, if it was a bit cheaper and a bit nicer to sit in. A standard disco would be great if it was bigger. I see there are more responses, will answer them shortly
Thanks!
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Thanks for the suggestions, as to "why not get an x y z" well, I want something that is mechanically quite simple and tough, and it also needs to be manual and not LHD. Disco 3 and P38 arent quite big enough and certainly arent simple or tough enough, a bit too far the other way for me.
If I were to buy a defender 130 (complete whole truck with an MoT and everything, lets say that would cost anywhere between 6k and 16k) how much could I sell the bits I dont use from that for? Mainly the body (keeping the tub/tray though) and the stock springs, shocks, etc. I havnt got 15k to fork out for one, but I did see some shady ex-tree surgeon thing go for less than 5k a few months ago, MoT and all, so you never know. A D2 body is fairly cheap, almost free infact, because a D2 with a rotten chassis is what, £1500? Sell the engine and driveline and get most of that back.
Could the whole thing realistically be kept under say, 7 or 8k? I mean ideally it would be great to keep the whole thing under 5, but we all like to dream. I think if I aim to keep it under 7 or 8, realistically it should stay under 10. Not that Ive got 10k either, unless I get lucky with a scratch card.
Click to expand...

No your dreaming...my 101 on a galve chassis re-built by Foley in the Uk and I bought here in the Algarve after being left for 15yrs under a tree still cost near 5k to refurbish... a 59 S2 I'm restoring for a friend will eventually cost around 12k and the chassis still had original paint and no rust or work needed done other than cleaning and painting with modern products...
 
LetsHopeItFits said:
Thanks for the suggestions, as to "why not get an x y z" well, I want something that is mechanically quite simple and tough, and it also needs to be manual and not LHD. Disco 3 and P38 arent quite big enough and certainly arent simple or tough enough, a bit too far the other way for me.
If I were to buy a defender 130 (complete whole truck with an MoT and everything, lets say that would cost anywhere between 6k and 16k) how much could I sell the bits I dont use from that for? Mainly the body (keeping the tub/tray though) and the stock springs, shocks, etc. I havnt got 15k to fork out for one, but I did see some shady ex-tree surgeon thing go for less than 5k a few months ago, MoT and all, so you never know. A D2 body is fairly cheap, almost free infact, because a D2 with a rotten chassis is what, £1500? Sell the engine and driveline and get most of that back.
Could the whole thing realistically be kept under say, 7 or 8k? I mean ideally it would be great to keep the whole thing under 5, but we all like to dream. I think if I aim to keep it under 7 or 8, realistically it should stay under 10. Not that Ive got 10k either, unless I get lucky with a scratch card.
Click to expand...
Budgeting to modify a vehicle is even worse than trying to budget for modifying/doing up a house.
We had a shell built for us in France and the WHOLE of our 10% contingency fund went on, ............... the drains and electricity coming to/going from the house, 250 metres to another road, not the one the land was on!!!!!
We couldn't foresee that. The drains yes but the electric? The meter reader people can never even find the meter, it being half a mile from the house by road.
But I digress!;)
 
Shippers said:
No your dreaming...my 101 on a galve chassis re-built by Foley in the Uk and I bought here in the Algarve after being left for 15yrs under a tree still cost near 5k to refurbish... a 59 S2 I'm restoring for a friend will eventually cost around 12k and the chassis still had original paint and no rust or work needed done other than cleaning and painting with modern products...
Click to expand...
+1^^^
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Can't help but agree with this muchly.
As I know all too well, from kit car building, once you start modifying stuff, each problem has a knock on effect. You really do need facilities and some skills, as well as the ability to think out of the box.
To give just one stupid example, when building my last Pinto engined car, I decided to fit a decent exhaust, and a set of exhaust headers instead of using the standard manifold. I bought a standard, after market kit, a PECO or summat.
Something like this
https://hpemotorsport.co.uk/shop/exhausts/pinto-4-2-1-exhaust-manifold/
The primaries wouldn't fit as they were, so they had to be shortened by an inch each, then after the collector from 4 to 2, the two pipes had to be rotated through 90 degrees and then back again to pass under the chassis member.
And once I got the exhaust dead right I realised the steering column etc would no longer go where it was supposed to go. On Kit cars you usually have to lengthen the steering connections but this time I thought for a while I was actually going to have to take it outside of the engine compartment then back in again, OR have to have a 90 degree joint. I managed to modify it in the end but it was a real sod to do.
And this is TINY stuff compared to bodywork, seats, dash, soft top, etc etc. (Mind you I never build a kit as standard, that would be boring!)
Click to expand...

Brill post...Dave from Scot Rods fellow scot building a V8 in Canada made his exhaust then did a mirror image for the other side didn't fit as the heads are slightly staggered on a V8..lol
 
Workshop/spannering/problems/etc
This is why Im trying to figure out what is mix-and-match, what lines up, what fits, what needs to be custom made, etc, before buying any bits. I dont have a big lift, but Im sure a friend of a friend might. Another option is to pay someone else to build it. Bring all the bits to them, and let them put it together, with their tools/workshop/experience, but then I really do need to know if its going to go together or not. Small stuff, like wiring, fuel lines, brakes, interior etc, Im happy to try myself, as they only require basic tools (not saying they are easy small jobs, theyre probably big jobs, but they dont requite heavy machinery and expensive tools and a big sheltered space to do, more diy friendly)
If the body is as simple as drop it on and bolt it up, I can bring a rolling chassis and a chopped body to someone, and pay them half a days labour to plop it on and bolt it up, then take it home on a trailer and finnish it myself over many evenings/weekends, then eventually get an MoT for it and then its finnished, or time for mods or whatever. The big task of putting the disco body on the defender frame, I know I cant do that, because I dont have a lift. Although a small part if me thinks that some hi-lift jacks will suffice, I know that its a really really bad idea.
 
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