Disco 2 M + S - Green Flashing Lights (But Disappeared Later)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Intestinalworm

Intestinalworm

Well-Known Member
Posts
712
Location
Australia
2003 D2 Td5 auto:

Was towing a trailer today - all good at the start. Stopped to pick-up some groceries. Got back in Disco and put in reverse to go move back a bit and then immediately into drive to head off. As I did this the M + S green lights suddenly started flashing. Drove further down the street a little bit to a safe spot and pulled over. Switched everything off and then turned ignition on again - same lights flashing! Turned off ignition again and moved transmission stick through PNRD321 (now noticed two small lights also flashing on the transmission housing either side of D). Turned ignition off again started again and all good - all gone - back to normal - drove back home with no issues at all.

Will use Foxwell diagnostic tool later to see what the fault was, but thinking it could just be XYZ switch sticking (XYZ switch is original)? [I did initially move the transmission stick quickly from R to D and maybe things got a bit confused with the ECU?] Any thoughts?
 
Okay, had a few moments so went out and checked with the Foxwell Unit:

Only faults logged were under Engine and ACE (nothing under AT).

Engine

- Engine speed outside bounds for cruise
- Vehicle speed outside bounds for cruise
- Inlet Air Temp Circuit Fault Logged High

ACE

- 0E04 ECU fault (fault code 37) - Contact Testbook

None of the above really look relevant?

Started again tonight and perfect - nothing - no warning lights, and no M + S.

Only things that I can remember where that it happened after shift moved from D to R and back to D when moving away from the kerb. Also it was wet (hail) and cold!
 
Okay, will check battery clamps tomorrow - you might be right, I did remove the battery earth clamp when I changed the air bag (I know it's not strictly necessary, but I did it anyway) - may not be quite as good a connection then on the earth as it was before I removed it. Thanks!
 
Intestinalworm said:
Okay, will check battery clamps tomorrow - you might be right, I did remove the battery earth clamp when I changed the air bag (I know it's not strictly necessary, but I did it anyway) - may not be quite as good a connection then on the earth as it was before I removed it. Thanks!
Click to expand...
The clamps on the D2 are the invention of the devil. I loosen mine, give em a good clout with a hammer and a socket to get them down the post then tighten them up.
Ministry of Sh!t Design!
 
Alright, have got the clamps (earth was removed and put back on a couple of weeks ago so maybe not quite right) and will also check that loom.

I assume I'll need to put it up on stands and feel up there with my hand! Have recently heard about those usb endoscope/camera/lights - might be useful!
 
Intestinalworm said:
Alright, have got the clamps (earth was removed and put back on a couple of weeks ago so maybe not quite right) and will also check that loom.

I assume I'll need to put it up on stands and feel up there with my hand! Have recently heard about those usb endoscope/camera/lights - might be useful!
Click to expand...
Apparently there is also a P clip somewhere that wears the loom, cannot remember if it is on the tranny box or the gear box but it does present intermittent faults and has been mentioned in quite a few posts.
 
I have serious doubts that the chaffed gearbox loom would just bring on the lights without any fault codes, would be the first time i see this, eventually @manchestershire should confirm that he didnt have any code or maybe he didnt read them
 
If I can remember correctly, it threw up implausible connection (or something like that) for xyz switch, but the fact it only happened during wet conditions led me to believe that it could be some kind of electrical connection being made when wet.
This is what I found upon removing loom
20190818_140643.jpg
20190818_141426.jpg

Soldered in new section of wire, cos the black was well worn through.

Never had any more issues with m & s lights since.

I must add though that the first couple of times it happened, the weather was shyte and I just got it home, went out to it next day in the dry and it started fine with no m&s lights, no fault codes stored.
 
Last edited:
manchestershire said:
If I can remember correctly, it threw up implausible connection (or something like that) for xyz switch, but the fact it only happened during wet conditions led me to believe that it could be some kind of electrical connection being made when wet.
This is what I found upon removing loomView attachment 216377 View attachment 216378
Soldered in new section of wire, cos the black was well worn through.

Never had any more issues with m & s lights since.
Click to expand...
Good for you! Well done!
 
Okay, drove yesterday - all good and there was a fair bit of rain. None the wiser really. I have run new conduit (original conduit obviously largely brittle and crumbling in a few areas) over the wiring a while ago but didn't do anything with the wiring to/from the auto box - out-of-sight and therefore out-of-mind I guess. I might have a look at that part of the wiring (have a bit of time) to check on it. Replaced the injector loom a little while ago (preventative maintenance) and no sign of oil back then.

No codes yesterday. Might be the "sloppy" way I changed the auto shift from D to R to D and confused the XYZ switch momentarily? Transmission filter, fluid and gasket changed just on a year ago.

Will monitor, but will also inspect the wiring loom (section with the foil sleeve near transfer box and auto box) and maybe have a look at the xyz switch. Otherwise just put it down to the gremlins!
 
Last edited:
Intestinalworm said:
Might be the "sloppy" way I changed the auto shift from D to R to D and confused the XYZ switch momentarily?
Click to expand...
Yes, if you did that then IMO you can put your mind to rest cos it's quite common to see flshing M + S without codes logged on such D - R - D shifts, the ECU gets mixed up especially when you change from D to R without vehicle to be fully stopped and the rpm at steady idle.
 
Mine stopped with a new battery and one of those halfrauds mini solar panels to trickle charge through the obd port. I must get round to fitting it all in properly, glad you got it sorted though
 
Muppetdaze said:
Mine stopped with a new battery and one of those halfrauds mini solar panels to trickle charge through the obd port. I must get round to fitting it all in properly, glad you got it sorted though
Click to expand...


Never seen/heard of that - solar panel trickle charger! Because of COVID19 "lockdown" here I didn't use the Disco for 4 weeks; of course I went out to move it and it wouldn't start - flat battery (must be security system power drain over 4 weeks)! 12.1V on the multimeter so put it on the battery charger. Anyway, after about 28 hours on the battery charger (old style basic trickle charger) the voltage was 14.55V. Funny thing was that the indicator dot was still red! Anyway, put the battery in and started first go; went for a run around the block several times - next day I looked at the indicator and it was green. Intriguing, so I fired off an email to the battery manufacturer and several days later I get a very long reply explaining why the indicator was still red after charging (colour linked to the concentration of sulphuric acid electrolyte, which is of course directly linked to the specific gravity - how that manifests as a colour change from red to green I'm not sure).

Cutting a long story short, the technician explained that the battery was not really meant to be charged from flat by my type of battery charger (trickle). He said it was however good to put a charged battery on trickle charge regularly to maintain battery health?! Maybe this is the reason for the solar-powered trickle charger?

Anyway, battery now disconnected as we're still in "lockdown" - just walking to shops or using the other vehicle if needed for short (<5km) trips.
 
An old battery which goes flat might not recover again, trickle chargers are especially made to not let the battery go flat on a long rest and keep it healthy in case of short drives
 
Disconnected my battery now due to further inactivity during "lockdown" just to be on the safe side (don't want it to go flat again), it seems to be a pretty good battery from all accounts (SuperCharge Gold - 1000CCA, they're made in the Philippines by Ramcar I believe Asia's largest manufacturer of batteries) and got a very good rating from an auto electrician I spoke to - it's 3 years old and hasn't missed a beat until now (discharged due to 4 weeks of inactivity sitting in the driveway) and the time I had problems with my loose terminals (not clamping well onto the posts).

Might look into the onboard, solar-powered trickle charger.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

archwayanimal
M and S issue
Replies
13
Views
933
sierrafery
sierrafery
Andrewoldold
M&S lights no crank / potentially immobilised?
Replies
1
Views
224
sierrafery
sierrafery
Heathereviemay
M and S flashing
Replies
3
Views
975
MJI
MJI
G
Ignition Lights ?
Replies
3
Views
567
discool
discool
B
Disco 2 Xyz switch? Cranks but won’t start.
Replies
9
Views
1K
Bilbobagend
B
Back
Top